Power Supply's Portable power supply

cml001

Well-Known Member
good morning deano... yeah I plan on pretty much duplication what you did with your box. YOU DID A GREAT JOB! Im a neat freak... hard to tell sometimes but I am. I got a pelican off ebay cheap, but its total crap... I hate ebay anymore, the good stuff... they want more than you can buy for new on most products you search for... dumb. I use an aluminum box w foam from Harbor Freight for my transmitter... im gonna go grab another for this project and use that I think... 25-30 bucks if I remember right. I am using switches a little different from yours, and the meter is a 2 wire... both leds will be green. I wish I knew how to install/wire a fan under the grill to help pull heat outta the box. anyhow.. as far as the charger... I haven't powered it up yet.. obviously. all the views I read were good and they seemed to match up to my intended use of it. I have a several small Blade helis.. msrx, 120sr, 130x... couple avg size.. Blade SR and Align 450pro dfc... couple parkzone warbirds.. so currently I have nothing larger than a 3s battery. I am in the works of the Align 550pro dfc.. may end up 500 tho(we shall see), which only runs a single 6s pk. that being said this charger should be more than enough for the next couple years. and more I hope! I got mine from BuddyRC.. they handle service/repairs if needed, so no sending to the manufacturer.. thay take care of it all... plus tho guys know there s&#*, and are great to talk to. shipping was free... I like those guys.. here are the specs
Specifications
Input voltage range: 4.50 - 38.0VDC
Charge current range: 0.05 - 30.0A
Discharge current range: 0.05 - 30.0A
Maximum charge power capacity: 1000W @ input voltage 23V (500W @ input voltage 12V)
Maximum discharge power capacity: 80W
Maximum regenerative discharge power capacity: 1000W
Maximum extern discharge power capacity: 1200W @ 40V/30A
Current drain for balancing: <500mA
Balance accuracy: <10mV
Lithium (LiPo/LiIo/LiFe) battery cell count: 1 - 6 series (In non-balance mode, expand LiFe to 12s)
NiCd/NiMH battery cell count: 1 - 25 series
Pb battery cell count: 1 - 18 series (2 - 36V)
Log Files storage: 16Mbit (31 hours)
Battery setup memories: 10
Intelligent temperature control: Yes
PC Connect: USB port
Weight: 750g
Dimensions (L X W X D): 143x123x46mm 5.63”x4.84”x1.81”
hope this helped.... prolly not tho... I have a new toy and I don't know how to play with it yet.. lol if you figure out how to use LogView when you get it.. let me kno! oh and hey, thanks again for your help... ill keep you up to date on my progress and take pics once I begin the build.

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sorry bout the typos.... the iphone likes to change my typing to its own version.. lol... plus I use the new age text based shorthand.. and im stupid. lol... whats up slobber!
 

deano1

Member
Hi cml001 sorry for the delay but no worries I will get back to you. My pelican case looked like crap but hinges and latches were ok so cleaned it up with lighter fluid as long as hinges latches ok should be good. About the fans air go's into the power supplys cool then as it passes through them it heats up and gets pushed out the case with ever more hot air. so as long as you have fresh air going into the power supplys it will be ok. That is why I used the foam to stop recycling warm air going back into the power supplys at the other end. so what will be the inside dimensions of your case. the charger sounds great I was thinking of getting a PL8 because looking at the Powerlab calculator the PL6 with my power supplys using 6s batteries says 33amps output but on the PL8 it says 40amps and the price difference is not much and hope that might future proof me a bit. At the moment I only have 3s for 450 pro but I have just got 10 batteries and hope to charge them all at once. and maybe soon 500 or 550 like you.
 

cml001

Well-Known Member
no worries bro... my case had a busted latch and... ive got another solution lined up, just have to swing by and get it. I have started my build even tho I lack the grills, banana plugs, and binding post. I am using one ps as a straight 12v so I can start to play with my charger(ABSOLUTLY LOVE'N IT BTW).... I cant believe ive dealt with those e-flite chargers for so long! anyhow... im lay'n out the material and making sure it works before I go soldering stuff... the only issue is my switches... so maybe you guys can help me out. they came in and have 5 prongs, I can not figure out the right prongs to make it cycle on and off with using the switch. below is a pic of what im working with. I do have the wires on the correct pins.... the unit is powering up... ive just got to figure out this switch. HELP!switch.jpg

switch.jpg
 

Tony

Staff member
Do you have a link to the switch with a schematic of how it works? that would help out a lot. Also, is hte only thing you are doing is turning the psu on? If so, that shouldn't be an issue since it's low amperage. But that switch will not handle the larger wires. I'm sure you know this, just have to state it.
 

cml001

Well-Known Member
thanks for your quick response tony... id like to square this one up tonight with I have the chance.. here is a pic of the specs... im using 18awg wires with futaba servo plugs to the ps, yes.. only to toggle power on and off.... low volt...specs.jpg

specs.jpg
 

cml001

Well-Known Member
sorry.... iphone... need to get on the computer i guess... but i think im on to something... the middle three are the ones... the outer two are for the led only... i think
 

deano1

Member
Is there any symbols adjacent to the connections like earth symbol and the like and maybe you might have to put a bridging wire from one connector to one of the led only ones to provide electric to the leds like I did
 

cml001

Well-Known Member
Yeah I got it figured.... 3 mains... Ground common open and common closed.. 2 additional for the LEDs... Pos and neg... So I hand to use a jumper between the two commons to make the signal work to operate the switch correctly... Then for the LEDs... Pos to a common and neg to the ground .... LEDs lights up when ps is off and LEDs turn off when ps is on. I wanted it opposite but there it is.... Now to trim off the crap and crimp/solder & heat shirnk the leads. But not tonight... Sleep then work... Again!
 

cml001

Well-Known Member
One last ? for a while as I gather the last bit of material... U used a 75amp pole for the 24v side as ur mount... What r the 12v side mounts rated as and would they not work for the 24v as well?
 

Slobberdog

Well-Known Member
I use 30 amp Binding posts for both sides as this is the highest my charger can draw, and I am not using it at full tilt so I will be safe at that,

You need to use higher than your charger can take for a safety point of view and really no point in mixing them if you don't have too
 

deano1

Member
Slobberdog is correct you don't want anything to get hot or melt. Cml001 wow that charger you got is a beast 500w at 12volts I make that 41amps. Hobbyking has two that would be ok a heavy duty set 1 black 1 red 12-24volt 100amps they are like the ones I used on my build they feel solid and good quality and there is a set 12-24volt 50amps which look similar they are for cheap. Don't forget to check the amps of the banana plugs which you use with them.
 

cml001

Well-Known Member
Kool, I was about to order them, but outta stock... So, I continued on with what I have and will grab those when available. All apologies as I have not taken photos of my progress.. I never remember to but will take some Friday most likely. Here is what I've got.
1) Wiring: all wiring is complete. 10awg for the power lines and 18 for the signal lines. Crimped connectors and solder bullets. Signal harness made. Heat shrinked. LED switch & volt meter.... All completed and tested(been using 12V for a couple weeks)
2) PS: Isolated DC ground in one unit making it the "floater".
3) Box: harbor freight box that I have been using for my transmitter.
4) Base mount for PS's: I use some scrap ply I had in the garage with some dowel pieces cut and painted red, PS's mounted.
5) Plexi: couldn't find perplex black like u have Dean, so I got clear plexi... Cut the box dimension and drilled the first 4 holes.
Friday I will be working on the A/C supply. also finish drilling mounting screw holes and cutting out for volt meter, switch, and storage door... Pretty close to being done. I will say that mine will not be as nice & clean as yours dean.. You did a damn good job... But mine will be ok... This project, while fun, has taken longer than I expected. I'll try to remember photos before I complete it and post them... Should I start a new thread? Is the "jacking"? Hope I'm not being rude... Anyhow happy new year to u guys, thanks for all the help you guys have given.
 

Graham Lawrie

Well-Known Member
Have you got a wiring diagram? I am starting to source parts for mine. I am curious as to why you have the Anderson connectors? Is this a USA thing? I noticed Kev has a different set up. I am having trouble getting a box.

I have ordered so far:
Pespex
10awg wire red/black x 1 mtr of each.
Toggle switches x 2 x Carbon.
IEC chassis mount.
4.5-30 Volt Digital Meters x 2.
 

deano1

Member
Cml001 any pictures are welcome on this thread I have been told never say no to pictures. Sounds like a great build and you will be able to see inside with being clear I really like the sound of that. Can't wait to see the pictures and inside at the wiring I could do with ideas and tips for my next build.
Hi Graham the reason I used Anderson powerpoles is here in the uk I found it difficult to find 4mm banana plugs that are 50amps and above to use with the binding posts so to play safe I just got the powerpoles they are great quality items and can easy take the maximum 47amps .
 

Graham Lawrie

Well-Known Member
@ Kev , any diagrams welcome. I dont have a box yet but starting to buy parts. My set up looks the same as deano1.
@deano1, sorry i did not realise you were in the UK like me:) I will probably go down the same route as well. I hope to look at Tonys video today as well. just getting the parts together just now, but still struggling to get a box i like:)
 

cml001

Well-Known Member
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Ok... Here are some that I took while giving it a test run. 5 3s pks para balance charging at 2c via 22amps.. All seemed to go well, nothing got hot. I have to wire the a/c power from both into one plug and finish cutting the plexi... Then I'm pretty much done. I will be replacing this binding post as soon as the other come in... He has them on back order so I have to wait(good looking out on where to find them)... But these seemed to do well enough for now. Thanks to u guys... GABA, Tony, Deano, Slobber, Lee.. And everyone else at RCH in all the threads on this type of build.... THANKS! You guys gave the knowledge and confidence to take on this project and have fun doin it.... Not to mention save'n cash!!! RCH ROCKS! Kkkkkk.... If you guys see something that could give issue or have any suggestions... Speak on up please.. Hope'n to have this baby wraped up by weeks end and on to another project... I have a spitfire in need of a serious makeover! Lol

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Slobberdog

Well-Known Member
Had a look back through this thread and post 27 has the pin positions and how to attach to the switches, remember the floated psu is going to be on your 24v side,

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Sorry the pic is not good, no pc on and done on my daughters doodle app.

The taps for the volt meters will come directly of the pos and neg on first psu and the 24v one will be the neg on first psu and pos on second.

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