Projects RC-Help Trainer V.3.1 Build Log

Tony

Staff member
I can't remember if I made that picture to scale. What you want to do is see if a 2200 3s pack fits snug (not tight) in that slot. If so, then just put it in. I think I created that drawing as a reference.
 

bigone5500

Well-Known Member
I can't remember if I made that picture to scale. What you want to do is see if a 2200 3s pack fits snug (not tight) in that slot. If so, then just put it in. I think I created that drawing as a reference.
It will be monday before I get the battery. So I will get it and test fit it and make adjustments as necessary.

Motor mount. I need suggestions on mounting it. Does the center have to be offset? What about the right facing angle?
 

Tony

Staff member
I have never offset the motor. If I notice that it is pulling up, I will put a few washers under the motor mount at the top two points to angle it down. It's just a trial and error deal. I just say mount it straight since I never know if the rudder or elevator are completely true.
 

Tony

Staff member
You can use either. The foam on the plans is only there to mount tongue depressors on which you would layer across each other as shown in the V1 video. But if you have ply, I would use that. It's just better.
 

bigone5500

Well-Known Member
Ill use the ply then. I'm thinking of inserting the screws from behind and securing with nuts on the front. Ill put a little epoxy on the screw heads. What do you think?
 

Tony

Staff member
It doesn't matter what side the nut is on. Just whatever is easier. I always put the nuts on the inside because 1, it's cleaner and 2, when this plane is build, you can't get an allen driver in there but you can get a pair of pliers to hold the nut.
 

Tony

Staff member
I want to say I ran it under the battery tray, just remember to give it some airflow or it will overheat.
 

bigone5500

Well-Known Member
Ok. I may cut the small end off the tray and have only the 'C' part of it mounted. That way there will be some air flow inside the fuselage. I'm thinking of putting some air intake cowls on the sides behind the motor to allow air to enter and then exit behind the servo tray. The cowls would be cut into the side of the fuselage in a fashion that the trailing edge has a 45 deg. bevel to the inside. This will 'cut' into the air and draw it inisde...that's my theory anyway.

hmmm...or I could cut a couple extra holes in the motor mount..
 

bigone5500

Well-Known Member
Took a trip to Hobby Town today. Came out with a couple 11x5.5 props, two bundles (8 pcs.) .047 music wire, some #4 t-nuts, a deans ultra plug, and another battery for my 120S. Man they are high on their batteries. The same size battery I got from amazon for $18 was almost $40 there. When I got home, I wanted to try out one of these props and found that the adapters don't fit just right. You have to play around with them to get them to balance decently. I figure I'll mess with it more when I get it on the plane so I went ahead and soldered on the deans plug.

Overall the prices weren't that bad for what I got. I tell ya what though...I really want one of those trucks. I forget which one it is (I think x max 8S) but the box is about 2' long 2' high and 10" deep. Big sucka!
 
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Tony

Staff member
That is correct, you leave the foam, but remove the top (or inside after the wing is folded) layer of foam, then wrap it around the middle wing piece. Helpful hint, glue the middle piece to the bottom section of the wing first (the one with the ailerons). Then fold the wing over and glue it to the center section.
 

bigone5500

Well-Known Member
Just to be sure. I don't cut away any foam from the paper backing, correct? I will then have, in essence, 3 layers of foam board as a wing.
 

bigone5500

Well-Known Member
That is correct, you leave the foam, but remove the top (or inside after the wing is folded) layer of foam, then wrap it around the middle wing piece. Helpful hint, glue the middle piece to the bottom section of the wing first (the one with the ailerons). Then fold the wing over and glue it to the center section.

So should I remove the paper from the foam on the center KFm? Just to keep it from peeling?
 

Tony

Staff member
I would normally say no, but with that black stuff, and because the paper comes off so friggin easily, this time I'm going to say yes. But I have no idea how it is going to turn out.
 
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