General DX6i and Titan Raptor 50
- Thread starter Heli 66
- Start date
murankar
Staff member
I found many articles on the net about tail setup. most go way over my head, but one thing I did understand I think was this: While in rate mode set the tail up as perfect as possible mechanically. Eliminate as much rotation as possible in your mechanical setup. You will be doing a lot of hovering, adjusting, hovering, adjusting, so on and so forth until setup is dead on. Any slight rotation can be trimmed out. then hover once again just to ensure you are dead perfect. Finally when everything is dead nuts center switch to HH mode. the tail should hold perfect.
Correct me if I am wrong, please.
Correct me if I am wrong, please.
Tony
Staff member
You definitely want rich rather than lean. but you need to run a silicone tube out of the fuse so it doesn't pool up. If it's leaking out of the engine, then you need to replace some gaskets. It's either the fuel feed is loose, front bearing, rear seal or exhaust seal. could also come from the coupler from the header to the muffler. Either way, it needs to be sealed up.
coolgabsi
Super Mod & DEAL KING!
os - 50 (or sx) is the one without the "hyper head" less cooling.. a little less power...
OS-50sx-h (h as in hyper) has a better carb and a larger (blue) cooling head.. a bit more power under constant load (instantaneous power might be the same) . if the engine you got has a blue head... you have a hyper..
OS-50sx-h (h as in hyper) has a better carb and a larger (blue) cooling head.. a bit more power under constant load (instantaneous power might be the same) . if the engine you got has a blue head... you have a hyper..
Heli 66
Member
Yea, I put it back in the fusealage,got outside, fired it up and it seem to shake alot, not sure if thats normal, throttled up even higher ,heli wants to rotate to the right,but it does'nt look like it wants to leave the ground. I dont want to throttle to high,cause i dont want it to get away from me
coolgabsi
Super Mod & DEAL KING!
Well that's why I wanted to get it fired up without the fuselage... If your blades are balanced both static and dynamically, and your main and feathering shafts are perfectly straight, and your clutch and clutch bell assembly are aligned, engine bearings are smooth, engine is not too lean (I know it was rich from a previous post), then it's just how i was expecting it would go... So much vibration that it feels like it'll fall apart.
Your throttle curve and pitch cure were at the values given on the first post right!? if not there is one culprit..
Second, the fuselages don't like high head speeds. Your throttle curve will need to come down, and basically you'll need much higher pitch per throttle percentage ...
Heli wanting to spin to the right is gyro not correcting right.. Looking from tail towards the nose , pushing or bumping the tail manually to the right should make the slider go left, and left make the slider go right ..if that's correct, and tail blades are rotating anticlockwise, with leading edge leading... Your tail should be straight.. Then check if you are in heading hold mode or not.. (heading hold is the switch position where your gyro percentage is above 50) ... Start off with 70 percent or more.
If all this is good, your heli should not "spin" .. Now.. When these nitro start, the tail does kick to the right because till it spools up to the right rpm enough to counter the torque of the huge blades you run on these blades. If it spins a bit and then stays, that's ok (dont let off the throttle if it kicks and adjusts) go a bit higher on throttle then to see if it'll stay.
I am guessing you have made sure that belt is not turned too many times inside the tail boom... That'll cause almost no rotor control.
Anywaz... All that said, see of all this works.
Now this is totally if you wanna risk it... I have old vertical abd horizontal stabilizers from my century bird. Also an old perfectly fine canopy. I custom fitted the trex 600 nitro canopy on my century heli. It's very very easy and you can retro fit these canopies. Its pained blue, and it's not as beautiful.. but functional, but I am not gonna use it, if you want , you can get those from me and see if you can fit those on your raptor. It's basically two bolts each to put them on. If you want those PM me... We can talk about that there.
You will need the tail supports too.. That's something you will need to get. But anywaz.. Let me know how it goes.
Gaba
Your throttle curve and pitch cure were at the values given on the first post right!? if not there is one culprit..
Second, the fuselages don't like high head speeds. Your throttle curve will need to come down, and basically you'll need much higher pitch per throttle percentage ...
Heli wanting to spin to the right is gyro not correcting right.. Looking from tail towards the nose , pushing or bumping the tail manually to the right should make the slider go left, and left make the slider go right ..if that's correct, and tail blades are rotating anticlockwise, with leading edge leading... Your tail should be straight.. Then check if you are in heading hold mode or not.. (heading hold is the switch position where your gyro percentage is above 50) ... Start off with 70 percent or more.
If all this is good, your heli should not "spin" .. Now.. When these nitro start, the tail does kick to the right because till it spools up to the right rpm enough to counter the torque of the huge blades you run on these blades. If it spins a bit and then stays, that's ok (dont let off the throttle if it kicks and adjusts) go a bit higher on throttle then to see if it'll stay.
I am guessing you have made sure that belt is not turned too many times inside the tail boom... That'll cause almost no rotor control.
Anywaz... All that said, see of all this works.
Now this is totally if you wanna risk it... I have old vertical abd horizontal stabilizers from my century bird. Also an old perfectly fine canopy. I custom fitted the trex 600 nitro canopy on my century heli. It's very very easy and you can retro fit these canopies. Its pained blue, and it's not as beautiful.. but functional, but I am not gonna use it, if you want , you can get those from me and see if you can fit those on your raptor. It's basically two bolts each to put them on. If you want those PM me... We can talk about that there.
You will need the tail supports too.. That's something you will need to get. But anywaz.. Let me know how it goes.
Gaba
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coolgabsi
Super Mod & DEAL KING!
vertical and horizontal are cosmetic and also used for orientation NOT functional in operation. If you can fit them.. I would do it. Canopy also... canopy of a 550 electric MIGHT .. MIGHT fit but its an electrics canopy.. MAKE SURE THE CANOPY DOESNT TOUCH THE MUFFLER.. the paint and glass will melt on it.. if its plastic.. worse.. believe me it'll burn.. lol... so check that.
apart from that, tail supports I think go over 2/3rds of the length.. They would definitely be short. They are very functional.. needed for keeping the long tail steady and to support the tail.. cause it'll vibrate like crazy if you dont have them, and also will flex. see what you can rig up.. tail vibration ---> gyro vibration --> tail not steady ---> loose in orientation ---> crash lol ..
apart from that, tail supports I think go over 2/3rds of the length.. They would definitely be short. They are very functional.. needed for keeping the long tail steady and to support the tail.. cause it'll vibrate like crazy if you dont have them, and also will flex. see what you can rig up.. tail vibration ---> gyro vibration --> tail not steady ---> loose in orientation ---> crash lol ..
Heli 66
Member
Canopy is fiber glass, windshield is just painted on but still i will keep it away from muff, also iwas gonna ask if the sabilizer fin needs to be a certain distance from tail rotor. at any rate i will see what i can come up with and i will post pic, i even gonna try the landing skids off the Electric as i probabaly am not gonna try and fix it up cause i dont even know what it is
