General help with Elevator servo Align 450L dominator
- Thread starter Edgardcafe
- Start date
Edgardcafe
Member
Hello, Tony!
You mean the Gyro in the radio... I just changed like you said ....It's correct?
Edgardcafe
Member
i was checking at the gyro in the TX and when i moved the switch also the lights turn on in the microbeast. switch Pos 0: 45% = light G on microbeast and after 10 seconds the lights turn off.
Edgardcafe
Member
Lee
Well-Known Member
If the status LED is Blue. Then you are in Head hold mode.
If the led lights up for G for Ten seconds, then you are set up correctly.
The manual suggests to set the % in your radio, so either H or G is lit.
I would drop the percentage down until you light H, and see how that flies.
Then you can increase it if needed, until your tail wags, then decrease it until it stops, and that is your optimum setting.
If the led lights up for G for Ten seconds, then you are set up correctly.
The manual suggests to set the % in your radio, so either H or G is lit.
I would drop the percentage down until you light H, and see how that flies.
Then you can increase it if needed, until your tail wags, then decrease it until it stops, and that is your optimum setting.
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Edgardcafe
Member
Edgardcafe
Member
I made a quick video just to show whats going on Edgardcafe
Member
sorry!! it fixed!
Edgardcafe
Member
i checked the picture you posted with my blade and i didn't see any differences ..or are they?
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haha!! i just checked the video ..Yes ..is backwards...i recorded with my computer..thats why!
Tony
Staff member
Okay, good. lol. My next question was going to be "how in the world did you get all of that to work? You would have to reverse your one way and everything" lmao.
Okay, lets start with the blades. How tight are they? You should be able to hold your helicopter sideways and give it a firm jerk and they should only fall to a 45º angle at most. But you can tighten them a little more. You don't want them to flop around though. Same with your tail blades.
Okay, lets start with the blades. How tight are they? You should be able to hold your helicopter sideways and give it a firm jerk and they should only fall to a 45º angle at most. But you can tighten them a little more. You don't want them to flop around though. Same with your tail blades.
Edgardcafe
Member
before made the video ....I tight little hard and tested it ...then i loosed little bit and tested it ... let me tell you something that happened yesterday..i was testing the heli and suddenly the blades got off the Main rotor holder, i put it back together and i noticed the DFC linkage Rod was little bit bent (just little) could be it?
Edgardcafe
Member
I just changed it ...i had a spare part ! i tested again and is doing the same thing ...I was checking the Main Rotor holder and the Rotor Housing are little loose! this happened when the blades flown away Yesterday and i lost the washers and i just realize that i don't put it back....so i just ordered a Feathering Shaft Set... Maybe could be it ... or i have to take my heli to the hobby shop and pay to someone to setup it...because i'm getting tired and i believe you also getting tired of it ! Lol..
Heliman450
Well-Known Member
Hi Edgardcafe, I've been looking in on your thread regularly and wanted to just put forward a few things for you to consider. The link below goes to a video from Lee posted here in 2013. Watch the video in thread #1 and see if it helps you with the tail/gyro problem.
Gyro & Tail servo Direction Set up
I also suffered with a tail problem but not so extreme as yours. Below is a picture of my tail setup for my Blade 450X using a protractor to measure the degrees for the tail. I took it quickly and the focus isn't great but the top blade points to the right. The reason for this is to counter the force of the rotating main rotor (clockwise rotation).
When the heli is sitting ready to take off the tail rotor should have the equivalent of about 10 degrees of right stick set to start with. Mine now has 8 degrees and you adjust this during testing by altering the length of the tail push rod. This will only need about one turn of the link in or out provided that your servo arm is set up properly.
Another thing to look at is the throttle curve. Mine was set as recommended by a chap I had as my flying instructor (0-80-80-80-80-80-80). This was just too steep for the Blade to live with and the tail always snapped hard left when increasing throttle. I now use 0-25-45-50-50-50-50 for the initial hovering. Remember that you only need to set up first of all to hover tail in, not go flying all over the place.
During my first testing of a heli after build or rebuild, I use a very flat pitch curve 46-48-50-50-50-50-50, this means that the heli won't take off even if you pushed the stick to 100% when 0 degrees are set at 50% stick position. You can run up the heli to check out tail wag after you've checked and double checked everything on the bench. Don't try to fly it until you're sure you know how your transmitter is setup and your gyro settings are working according to the transmitter, not the gyro. You need to be able to easily change the gyro settings to fine tune it in the field, hence, doing it this way.
Finally, only use the gyro in "Normal" mode for the initial settings and hovering, you don't need the "Heading Hold" mode until you fly off somewhere. How do you know it's in "Normal"? When you move the rudder stick left or right, the tail rotor snaps back to the central position rather than staying out to the right or left when you release the stick (heli on the bench during testing until you're sure about what you're doing). When you know what the setting actually is, then you can use the same number for the "Heading Hold" mode. It should be the highest setting without any tail wag, this will depend upon the actual heli, but makers often suggest starting out around 60% when you're ready for the first test in the field. It shouldn't really be much different than this, maybe around 54-58%.
Hope this helps.
Gyro & Tail servo Direction Set up
I also suffered with a tail problem but not so extreme as yours. Below is a picture of my tail setup for my Blade 450X using a protractor to measure the degrees for the tail. I took it quickly and the focus isn't great but the top blade points to the right. The reason for this is to counter the force of the rotating main rotor (clockwise rotation).
When the heli is sitting ready to take off the tail rotor should have the equivalent of about 10 degrees of right stick set to start with. Mine now has 8 degrees and you adjust this during testing by altering the length of the tail push rod. This will only need about one turn of the link in or out provided that your servo arm is set up properly.
Another thing to look at is the throttle curve. Mine was set as recommended by a chap I had as my flying instructor (0-80-80-80-80-80-80). This was just too steep for the Blade to live with and the tail always snapped hard left when increasing throttle. I now use 0-25-45-50-50-50-50 for the initial hovering. Remember that you only need to set up first of all to hover tail in, not go flying all over the place.
During my first testing of a heli after build or rebuild, I use a very flat pitch curve 46-48-50-50-50-50-50, this means that the heli won't take off even if you pushed the stick to 100% when 0 degrees are set at 50% stick position. You can run up the heli to check out tail wag after you've checked and double checked everything on the bench. Don't try to fly it until you're sure you know how your transmitter is setup and your gyro settings are working according to the transmitter, not the gyro. You need to be able to easily change the gyro settings to fine tune it in the field, hence, doing it this way.
Finally, only use the gyro in "Normal" mode for the initial settings and hovering, you don't need the "Heading Hold" mode until you fly off somewhere. How do you know it's in "Normal"? When you move the rudder stick left or right, the tail rotor snaps back to the central position rather than staying out to the right or left when you release the stick (heli on the bench during testing until you're sure about what you're doing). When you know what the setting actually is, then you can use the same number for the "Heading Hold" mode. It should be the highest setting without any tail wag, this will depend upon the actual heli, but makers often suggest starting out around 60% when you're ready for the first test in the field. It shouldn't really be much different than this, maybe around 54-58%.
Hope this helps.
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Heliman450
Well-Known Member
Hi Edgardcafe, see my response on setting up your tail. In your picture (thread #52), your tail looks like it's got left (negative degrees) pitch set on the tail rotor blades. If you turn the main rotor by hand until the tail rotor blades are vertical, then turn both blades by hand until they are in line with the tail boom, the top blade should be turning out to the right. It's easier to see the action of the tail in this position. Left stick should move the top blade left, right stick should move it right. In the neutral position, the top rotor blade should have about plus 10 degrees of pitch.
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Edgardcafe
Member
Wow .. Thanks for all information.. I will test my heli again today after getting off work !
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Well .. It's no easy to put this bird in the air ! Sometimes have to have a lot of patience to this hobby and a newbie like me that don't know much about .. So I'm glad to be here on this forum I always get my answers so quickly..!! This give me more energy to keep going!