600 Goblin 630 Build

[pvolcko]

2000-2100 will probably be fine as a starting point.

Governor will manage the throttle signal being sent to the ESC. It will feed more throttle when the headspeed slows down (or the Ikon sees that you're inputting a bunch of collective or cyclic and will need the power boost to maintain headspeed). And it will dial it back if it starts overspeeding. It attempts to maintain the RPM you set the governor too despite loading conditions caused by your inputs, falling pack voltage, etc.

SL: Yeah, in the air it will hang by the rotor and will be level in a hover, so you need to bubble level the head or some other rotor parallel component on heli (motor, Ikon, etc.) to set the level on the Ikon.

 

[HeliDinoRC]

So for take off, landing and general having fun flying(circuits, etc.) in my easy setup I will not need a high headspeed so should I tame it down to say 1500 on my easy setup and then pump it to 2000-2100 my sport setup? What determines the headspeed for different setups. Personal preference, load per given manuever's, flying style, etc.?

So, if I'm flying and notice my motor bogging while ascending would I need to change out my pinion to a smaller one or change my governor settings?

What motor efficiency should I expect or try to achieve?

I will be getting a bubble level(s) tonight!

 

[pvolcko]

1500 would be too low. When you run large heli headspeeds too slow they tend to get wobbles and collective/cyclic response gets extremely sluggish. And the power of the motors vs the gears/belts is such that you may well strip something out if you jump on the collective quick at such a low headspeed with a governor active. Also, Goblins are notorious for not liking low headspeeds and being more susceptible to head speed induced wobbles than other brands.

1900 is probably the lowest I'd go on initial setup and maiden flight.

As you get more confidence in the flying and used to the response of the setup you can try dialing back the headspeed to get longer flight times. A little at a time. I wouldn't move more than 100RPM per attempt, 50 once you're under 1700RPM.

Don't worry about the efficiency. Worry about getting it comfortable to fly. Striking the right balance between power, responsiveness, and flight time.

 

[HeliDinoRC]

Well, I was going to begin programming the iKON today and have hit a snag. to start, I programmed the basic info in an empty bank in my DX6i (Chose Heli). I then installed the most recent iKON software on my PC, plugged in the DSMX sats., plugged in the servos, and plugged in the Rx battery in Channel 2. This is just as the iKON software directs. I noticed the servos were buzzing (normal) as I went through the first sections of the software. I got to the Tx setup section and nothing neither of the slide bars were moving. I thought for a minute and realized, oh snap, I forgot to bind it to my receiver. I shut everything down and bound it to my DX6i per the manual. When I plugged everything back in and started the software, I still had no response in the Tx section of the setup. (I noticed that the servos were not buzzing this time?????) I reset the iKON back to factory defaults in the software, I shut everything down, unplugged everything, erased the model in my Tx and started over. I reprogrammed the model in my Tx, plugged the servos back in, etc., rebound to my Tx, plugged in the USB and this time in the Tx section the Aileron slider channel was moving back and forth with Rudder input and the throttle slider was moving back and forth with throttle input but the pitch slider was not moving and the values were from 0 to 46%. No slider movement at all with cyclic input. from the Tx.

Servos are still not buzzing. I made certain that the Rx battery power was not plugged into the CH 4-5-6/Bind port at any time.

Has anyone experienced this with the iKON?
Is the unit faulty?

 

[pvolcko]

I thought you had a DX7s and DX9 (what's listed in your sig)? Why the DX6i for this? DX6i will not work fully with DSMX sats. I was under the impression that is would only result in not be able to do bank switching, but it may be a more profound incompatibility than I was thinking.

TX issues aside: I would have nothing but power and DSMX sats plugged into the Ikon to start with. Make sure to select the DSMX sat button in the setup step, after which you could bind the Tx. After bind, pull the bind plug, then cycle power to the Ikon and Tx to make sure the bind was good. Again, I'd highly recommend using the DX7s or better, instead of the DX6i.

Perform the Tx setup screen, again with no servos connected.

Do not connect servos until you get the the servo settings setup screen and have selected the correct parameters for your servos (cyclic and rudder). Only after selecting those parameters should you connect your servos. This is to make sure they are not operated out of their freq and center pulse range, which can damage them. If you don't have the info on your servos try using this site to get the info: -= BEASTX - BE ABSOLUTE STABLE =-.

 

[HeliDinoRC]

I was binding prior to executing the iKON software.

Yeah, I know, there must have been something in my coffee this morning. I wasn't drinking or anything. I must have been half asleep all day. Just had a hair brained idea. I have a DX6i that came with my 450. I use it with the micros, trainer planes and Phoenix sim. I just got the DX7s for Christmas and then bought the DX9 the end of January after playing with one at the flying club so I haven't spent much time with them. Well, I was flying the Nano after breakfast and noticed I had an empty bank and for some reason it sounded like a good idea to use it to just get the servos centered since I am familiar with the programming process. However, I realized when I was trying to figure out the Tx setup issue that I would have to go through all of this again when I did the final with the DX9.

Lesson learned: Program the Tx you plan to ultimately use with the aircraft.

The DX6i appears to be DSMX compatible; however, it needs to be selected in the modulation section of the setup menu......DSM2 was selected so the problems make sense.

Lessons learned: Make sure the Tx is compatable and programed correctly AND not all ideas are good ideas!

RJX isn't listed on that web site but the specs were listed on the helidirect site. Do I need anything other than the center pulse and frequency? I took some time and typed up a Spec sheet for all the electronics and bookmarked the BEASTX site for future reference.

Today wasn't a good day. I was going to try one more time before I went to bed.....don't do things like this when you're tired......I plugged in the sats and the battery to the iKON getting ready to bind again and see if I had everything set correctly. I thought I would test to see if there was voltage at the ports on the iKON and made an adapter out of an old servo lead as I didn't think it was a good idea to try to get the multitester leads on the small pins in the iKON and risk shorting it out. I got up to get a drink and accidently pushed the powered iKON pin side first into a pile of metal tools.....sparks flew and the magic smoke came out along with two pins one on the tail servo port and one on servo 1 port. I now have a fried iKON. New iKON coming Wednesday. Today was not a good day!

Lesson learned: A clean bench is a safe bench. This one was an expensive lesson.

 

[pvolcko]

Oy. That sucks.

 

[HeliDinoRC]

Yeah! I will finish and fly this thing!

On a good note I tried some 3D stuff in the sim tonight and did pretty well. Wasn't pretty but it was cool and fun!

 

[cml001]

Man... Sucks real bad! Any chance on the ikon being repaired?.. Well u already ordered a new one..

 

[Lee]

Bummer dude, shame it can't be repaired.

 

[HeliDinoRC]

The pins on the ports broke off or burned off all the way inside to the plastic housing. If it could be repaired, I'm wondering if it would be worth it to risk an electronic glitch in the firmware that did not reveal itself on the bench but takes out my Goblin when I maiden and/or begin adjusting for flying. I didn't want to spend the money but I want everything to be right.

Guess I'll start studying the CC Edge ESC setup!!!

I was bummed last night but I can't dwell on it.

Newb's Rule!!! hahaha...

 

[pvolcko]

You're taking it well. I'd be tossing stuff around the room.

 

[HeliDinoRC]

Oh, I was pretty upset but calmed down by the time I posted....I still can't believe I did that!

 

[cml001]

Murphy's law... We've all been there in one way or another.

 

[Island Breeze]

Looking good..

 

[HeliDinoRC]

Yep!

New iKON will be here Wednesday!

I also got a XH-EC5 Paraboard V3 from BuddyRc so I can charge the flight pack, I realized I didn't have any EC5 charging cables or boards.

I switched gears on the BEC as well and decided to go with a Rx battery instead. I noticed that the only place to install the BEC was underneath and the power wires from the BEC to the FBL and servos are not hard wired in. I began thinking that that may be a disaster waiting to happen if the plugs pulled out midflight, so made a power harness with two servo wires to power the FBL and servos and a ground wire connected to the negative side of the 12S flight pack all connected to an EC3 to the Rx battery. May be just as risky but IMO the EC3 connector holds a bit stronger and it is a simpler setup with less wiring. I had a Glacier 2S 36mah Rx battery and picked up a Pulse 2S 3600mah Rx battery so I should be good. I will use the WR BEC on another build.

 

[HeliDinoRC]

Well Guess what showed up in the mail today?

The new iKON arrived.......................Build back in session!!!

Still annoyed I burnt the other one!

 

[Lee]

What are you going to do with the damaged one?

 

[HeliDinoRC]

Not sure what I can do with it?

Hey, just noticed....you pulled the trigger on a G570??? If it's in your sig, it's official!

 

[pvolcko]

Personally I think you should rip open the blown Ikon and do a teardown with pics. Never know, you might find you can salvage it with a couple new header pins and some soldering.