How did she test?Exactly. I found the +/- markings in the manual for the 3GX. Just got the blades spinning (testing inside for now) for the first time on my build a few minutes ago -- thanks for your help.
How did she test?Exactly. I found the +/- markings in the manual for the 3GX. Just got the blades spinning (testing inside for now) for the first time on my build a few minutes ago -- thanks for your help.
Good job, Bruno!
Your close to beeing in the air now
Post some pics if you've got them.
4 Questions:
1) Besides trying different servo horns is there any other way to reduce the amount of subtrim to 90 the servos?
2) Do my swash settings (see above) seems within normal limits.
3) Are there swash setting range/differential parameters?
4) As a beginner is 10 degree pitch and 8 degree cyclic a good start?
Thanks.
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1. Swap the horns around between servos, see which ones match 90 the best. Remember DIR mode and mid sticks when doing this.
4. You could set up the head with 10 deg pitch, then take your (NORMAL) top curve down to maybe 8 deg, and your bottom to maybe negative 2 deg. As you progress you can increase the top. I started out around +8, and that was just fine. You'd want some negative under mid stick as well, since you may want to bring it down while you are training.
If you have upgraded the 3GX to 2.1, I would highly recommend reducing flip- and roll rate with maybe 15 points. If you're using the 1.2 3GX, then just set it to "Beginnner". And please, don't touch the Idle Up switch until you master Normal mode![]()
How did she test?
Just a relief to have blades spinning after so much setup and wiring! Feels great. I am definitely getting a wobble through the frame but it's hard to tell if it's just the chopped air coming down from the blades or something off balance.
Ok next step. Done with the DIR setup and limits but having trouble getting the servos to 90 degrees. Before installing the servo horns, I centered them with just the AR6210. Now that I'm going through the 3GX to the AR6210, the horns on aileron and pitch are both (1) pointing down and (2) have -very- little movement in response to the stick inputs, so almost no swashplate movement. Any ideas? I'm thinking it could be a wiring issue from earlier.
If it bends then you have a binding problem some where. How is the spacing on the little controll rod holders?
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Ps make sure your travel limits are not to far too! Lol
Rudder Control Rod Length Problem:
I completed the build last night. I have yet to set the 3GX limits. However, despite having my rudder control rod length according to specs., it seems too long and bends/bulges at full left stick (right rudder control) Not sure how to correct.
Any ideas?
Thanks.
Thanks...I think it's more likeley the travel llimits. How do I go about setting (Rudder) travel limits?![]()
Go with what Marius said! I do not have any Experiance with the 3 gx system. I could only tell you to go into the tx and adjust your travel limits there.
I presume you already have done the tail set-up, since you got the tail travel limits right?
The limits for the tail is NOT set up in the Tx as you would a FB heli.
The D/R and servo travel for rudder should be 100%.
If this all checks out, continue reading.
Do a quick test:
Boot up the bird as normal (not DIR mode).
The swash hops up and down three times.
Tilt rudder stick far left, and watch if servo starts to bind (linkage rod bends).
If the servo does bind, this might be an indication that the 3GX unit is "forgetting" your settings between batteries.
This is all I can come up with at the moment.
You need to go back into your E REV menu and reverse the correction. It took me a few times to get this part.
If the swash is correcting in the same direction as the heli is tilting, then yes. I think I have the gyro setup in the second to last Align video I did on the Pro V2. I think, don't hold me to that. lol.