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Guys, yes the battery voltage will vary but it wont make any detectable difference to the performance of the servos. Even the top pros often use a 2S LiPo to power their HV servos, and if they can't detect any loss of performance then it's probably good enough for us too! For sure I can say from...

Either get an ESC or BEC that has output in the range of 7.4-8.4V (BEC would be powered direct from flight pack) or the simple solution is to run off a 2S LiPo unregulated.

Run at the highest voltage that your servos will take. 6V is fine for most standard servos. HV servos take up to 8.4V

There is nothing really wrong with the DS615/655.. sure there are faster servos around but the 615/655 do the job ok.. That being said, bang for buck you cant beat KST BLS815 and BLS805X on the tail, HV brushless for a bargain price and very reliable. I use these on a couple of my big helis...

Friend dont let friends use normal mode.......... Get rid of it, no place for it on an electric heli unless you have a crap ESC with no soft start. My heart is in my mouth every time watching you fly in such a tight space!

I thought that might be the case... your problem is your throttle curve. The way a collective pitch heli is meant to work is that the RPM stays about constant and you control the 'up and down' with collective pitch only. So what you should have is a pretty much 'flat' throttle curve so as to...

Here's my setup for reference: What you see here is: 1. The ugly cream coloured charger is my iCharger 4010 Duo.. Not the prettiest of chargers but there is none with more power. It will do 1000W/40A on each of it's two channels. Hooked up to the iCharger I have a 8 port parallel charge...

Those Groupner chargers seem to be rare beasts in the UK. Most high end setups here use Powerlab or iCharger. The Groupner looks to be a very high end product and lots of high tech features. If I read the spec right it's got dual 400W / 20A outputs?.. That will get the job done nicely. You can...

She looks like new, nice work. It must be all the more satisfying to turn someone's pile of dismantled bits that they have obviously given up on, into a beautiful 'like new' heli.

I'll take a photo of my setup tonight. There are a few options for parallel charging, the new style 'safe' parallel boards with individual fuses on each connection are the most fool-proof, but you can use non-fused boards or 'squid' cables too. Parallel charging is really the only way to go if...

Sorry to see that, but he did seem to be flying well before the crash. Like the others have said, maybe look at your throttle and pitch curves.... So how have you got those set?

I think most of us have accidentally installed a used battery occasionally. 3.75V per cell is no problem. I regularly fly mine as low or lower than that, it's absolutely nothing to be even the slightest bit concerned about. 3.7V to 3.75V is the ideal voltage range to fly down to. Even going...

Looks like a good buy, just needs some TLC and she should be good as new. Is it the 3S or 6S version?

There are a few options for charging. You could solder all the wires together so that you only had one power plug and one balance plug, and charge as normal... Or if that's too much fuss you could keep the seperate plugs and parallel charge using a parallel board or parallel harness. parallel...

Hobbyking do a copy version of the shaft for their 600GT clone: HK600GT main shaft (H60013-1) Quality might not be to Align standard but it's only a shaft so hopefully not too much they can get wrong....

If it's already got a flybarless head then i'd personally not bother converting to DFC unless you absolutely cant find a shaft anywhere. For what it's worth Align have dropped DFC from all their new helis and gone back to traditional flybarless anyway, so if you were going to convert you might...

7.5V for a 6S battery! ... If that's correct then the battery is toast. It wouldn't charge up again because the charger would error on too low voltage. the minimum for a 6S is about 18V (3v per cell). It would normally be impossible to run a battery anything like that low because the ESC would...

It's going to be a real struggle to find a 3s battery of that capacity that's only 30mm wide and 15mm deep.. None of the sources linked above have one and neither do Hobbyking here in the UK. All 3s batteries of 800mAh and up that I've found are wider, and thicker (but shorter). If all else...

I use my iCharger 4010 duo to measure IR (though it's not something I do very often). iCharger's are supposed to have decent IR accuracy, Powerlab chargers aren't so good for IR and generally report much lower numbers. The battery temperature is very important when you measure IR, the values...

The heli was designed for a 6S 5000mAh battery... A few 100mAh either way would be ok but don't go much smaller otherwise the heli will be very tail heavy. Derek, the battery on the 600GT straps externally to the front of the frame.