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I always grease my OWBs with standard grease, same stuff I use everywhere. I have only ever had trouble with a OWB on a single occasion on a Trex 600 Pro (which are well known for weak OWB's). And even in that case the OWB itself was ok, it was actually spinning in the housing so grease had...

Virginius E Clark must turning over in his grave to have his airfoil's name so applied :rolleyes: Nakhil, your airfoil would probably work ok if the plane was much lighter, but for best performance you should make the radius of the nose of the airfoil much smaller. This is a real Clark-Y...

Your plane is going to be really hard if not impossible to fly at that weight. Even if you have enough power and thrust it's really far too heavy to be a trainer. The wing loading it up around what you would expect for a racer. I suppose that if you have all the parts then you have nothing to...

That's good Uri, at least if you notice the onset of a little tail wag then you know where your limit is. Increasing collective pre-comp will get rid of any remaining slight kick, it's very effective.

Uri, Good that you are making progress but i think that the root of the problem may be quite simple. Have you changed these settings previously? Reason i ask is the default settings are P = 80 and I =60 So by having these values lower than default you will be lowering tail gyro gain and...

Yeah, swash movement appears fine in the video. Bear in mind that with a FBL on the cyclic you are not directly controlling the servos with the Tx stick. The stick only tells the FBL that you want to (for example) roll to the right. The FBL then processes that signal and moves the servos to what...

The thing with any flybarless controller setup is that you must be able to work through the settup process methodically step by step. You cant rush and you cant miss any steps. If you do that and you make sure each step is done right the heli will work. Spinning can only mean one of two things...

Yes, that's because they are both clone copies of the BeastX Microbeast V1

Yeah, it looks like your tail gyro response is reversed, you need to reverse the tail servo in the gyro setup (menu 'G'). After doing that you will also need to reverse the rudder in the Tx setup.

I'm sure you will find in practice all the parts are more than 'man-enough'. My 420 is of course a clone but in most respects it's a straight copy of the goblin and has proved very robust in all respects. The activator for use on 'passive' materials (aluminium and stainless etc) is Loctite 7471...

Good point on the bearings Phil. Yes, if someone is putting so much on that it's running out and going where it's not intended then that can be a big problem. My pulleys stuck to the tail shaft is an example of this but in my defence it is quite hard to get enough on without risking a little...

You do need enough thread lock to thoroughly wet the threads. I dont think touching it on a piece of tissue would ever apply enough. I do have some 'inside knowledge' in this respect because at work the Henkel top technical guy for Europe did a workshop with me and a few of the guys from work...

The photo shows that the tail is responding the correct way to Tx input but that isn't what Tony meant. The problem with a heli that spins is most often that the gyro response is reversed. It's totally possible to have Tx response correct but gyro response reversed. If in any doubt shoot a short...

PS.. you can use the manual from the BeastX: http://www.rcheliaddict.co.uk/attachments/downloads/19456d1290553766-beast-x-manual-english-microbeast_pv_eng.pdf The layout of the LEDs is a bit different but the setup is the same.

Setting up a FBL unit can be quite tricky and frustrating at first. The BeastX and it's clones clones rely on interpreting various different colour LED's and wiggling Tx sticks around, some like that some hate it. Personally I much prefer a PC software interface that makes the setup process much...

My problem is typically the opposite. Thread lock gets in-between the pulley and the shaft and makes it a devil of a job to get them apart even once the grub screw is removed. I'm careful these days not to use too much.

You need to set the swash type in the Tx to 'Normal' or 'Single servo'.... This disables swash mixing in the Tx (it's all done in the FBL).

What swash setting have you used in the Tx?.

Phil / Neil The tail shaft should have a 'dimple' on it that the grub screw locates into, so it really doesn't have to be especially tight. The tip of the screw locks into the dimple so you have mechanical interference rather than purely friction. You do have course have to use thread-locker...

I guess the question "Is this s good heli for a beginner" is already answered;) I wouldn't give the glued gear very long, nothing really glues nylon in my experience.