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If it's a fast tail wag then usually you just need to lower the tail gain. If it's a slow 'lazy' wag then you may have binding in the linkages, or gain too low.

Are you putting the Tx into bind mode when you turn it on?

I was just about to suggest that you check that gain was set to a positive value (say +40% for starters).. but you got there first.

It's always good to provide as much information as possible in these threads, and maybe photos too or even better a video of the problem. There are many models of Trex 450 and the setup procedure can be very different depending on if the heli is flybar equipped, or flybarless. If flybarless what...

Did you adjust the gear mesh so that there was just a very slight play between the motor pinion and the main gear? It's very important that there is a little play, if the gears mesh very tightly then that could explain your problem. Also check that the pinion is compatible. The 118t gear was...

D.O.G. If you mean the three wires that come from the ESC and connect to the motor, actually the colors are irrelevant. Many ESC's and motors just have black wires anyway. The three wires are just to carry the three power phases, there is no signal wire or positive or negative. On the other...

What Admiral said. The red and black wires go to the battery (respecting polarity red =+ and black =-) and the three wires connect to the motor (in any sequence). If the motor runs backward swap any two of the three wires to reverse direction (But NEVER swap the battery wires!) As Admiral said...

I'm not a nitro flyer these days but from what i know, the regulator is a pump that is operated off engine crankcase pressure. It's there to give a constant flow of fuel during hard 3D flying when the heli is in unusual orientations and pulling high 'g' maneuvers. If you need it depends on if...

Exponential and/or rates are your friends. I'd first try maybe 20 to 30% exponential on elevator and aileron, which will calm down initial stick response. If still twitchy you could reduce elevator and aileron rates. For collective you can reduce the pitch curve from 100% to maybe 80%, or...

Excellent :arms::beerchug:

In the pitch curve you describe then mid stick is 4 degrees, which will be roughly the point that the heli hovers. However as i said, if you use a curve such as this you must use an 'idle up' throttle curve, otherwise you are at great risk of cutting motor power in flight when you move the...

When you set the heli up you would almost always mechanically set servo arms level at mid stick with blades at zero pitch and using a linear 0 -50 -100 pitch curve. if you wanted to set a different curve after completing mechanical setup you can do so, but I would always recommend having some...

There have been many versions of the Align 450 and many different FBL controllers and gyros. As D.O.G. say's usually the FBL/Gyro goes on the mounting plate above the tail boom mount, all the wires should reach that position. Some older types (with flybars) had the gyro on the bottom plate of...

After any work on the heli I always check for correct response to stick movement and gyro correction works in the right direction, not just on the tail but on the cyclic as well.

I hope the repairs and future flights go smoothly.

That Orange Nano satellite looks like a great option, but it seems to be unavailable now.

What Admiral said, made by the same people who used to make the Synergy. Looks like a very nice heli once you get past to controversy around the Synergy dispute

Good that you got it sorted. With a FBL the servos don't directly follow stick input, so what you describe is probably normal.

What transmitter? Some transmitters (Futaba being the main culprit) need throttle channel reversing. Other than that, you could have the ESC throttle cable connected to the wrong port on the Kbar. Note that if using a traditional PWM receiver (one wire per channel) the ESC throttle wire needs...

I’d always recommend to use bearing retainer. I’ve had OWBs come loose before