600 Goblin 630 Build

[murankar]

With the bigger helis some people hold the the heli in a knife edge. If it drops in one direction you will know how to adjust. Lee has a tip on cog with his chaos I believe.


If you do the knife edge test then you will want to check both nose right and nose left orientation. The rotor will be held closest to your body with the skids pointing out and horizontal to the ground.

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[HeliDinoRC]

The only thing I am cautious of checking COG by doing the "knife edge" way is bending or breaking something due to the Goblin being a much heavier bird. Why would this way work better for bigger helis?

 

[murankar]

In the days of flybars lifting by the flybar was almost dead on accurate. With fbl the blade grips may not provide an accurate pivot point. I have see many with 600s and 700s use this method with greater accuracy. I have seen a 7HV done this way.

Just make sure you grab a good hold of the head block with both hands and lock your elbows at your side. I also did the X3 this way. It was a pain to get a hold of a smaller head block but it worked.

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[HeliDinoRC]

Okay, COG done.

Blades are balanced at 152.11gr and 152.09gr and CG matches.


Getting Ready For My Maiden.....perhaps this weekend if the weather cooperates!

I still need to:
Install main and tail blades
Check pitch with blades installed
Check Tracking and adjust if needed
Program Tx for maiden flight

For a maiden flight is it best to have a linear throttle curve i.e. 0-25-50-75-100 with no governor? I am also thinking a 46-48-50-75-100 pitch curve will be best. It is tame on the bottom end to allow for a safe landing but will allow me to get into forward flight if things go well at hover. I was thinking I would set both (incase I accidently hit the switch) D/R switch positions at 75% for Aileron and Elevator and 65% on Rudder with +20-25% expo? My goal is to hover and check for excessive vibrations, wagging, irregular flight, etc.

What about FailSafe???

Anything I should do/look for/check that I have missed???

Please advise......

 

[murankar]

My pitch curves are real close to yours. My throttle is 0 40 65 65 65. You can go linear if you want, just remember that the more collective you give the closer to max head speed you'll have.

Since this is the maiden I would maybe stick with what I have or go to 75 75 75 at the end.

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[Slobberdog]

I agree with Uri, set the last 3 point the same, that way you will only be maintaining collective not rpm and collective, I would prob go for 0-40-70-70-70, I think that's what I use on both mine, my 130x runs at 0-40-80-80-80

 

[pvolcko]

And I still say just use ikon governor mode with soft start enabled (in the ESC or on the Ikon).

If things are sounding odd during spin up you can hit throttle hold and all is good. The only concerning part about using governor for normal mode spin ups and take offs is getting the soft start enabled. Once you're good there (and that's totally testable on the bench without blades on) it's smooth sailing... or flying... or whatever.

 

[HeliDinoRC]

How do I setup softstart in the iKON? I cannot find this online. I looked at the advanced menu and it appears to be in there but I don't want to screw anything else up by not knowing what to set values to to enable soft start on the iKON. I currently have softstart in the CC Edge ESC enabled with the medium/normal setting.

Also, there seems to be an awful lot of slop in the tail grips and tail pitch slider....is this normal???

 

[pvolcko]

I'm going to have too look this up. I think ikon gov soft start is always on when gov is enabled, but I'm not sure. I usually put the esc in ext gov mode and use ikon got, ss, and auto-rotation bailout, turning the cc esc features off. You can mix and match but it can lead to some clashes. More tmrw. Way late.

Slop on a gob? No. Check things again. Post a video of it if you can't figure out how to eliminate it.

 

[HeliDinoRC]

The MSH Brain is the same thing. I will look and see if there is anything on the Brain. I have did some research this past week and can't find any instruction on setting up SS in the iKON. Will keep looking as well..…I am fine with using the ESC SS but Chris Sexton in one of his video's mentioned that when auto bailout is utilized the system works best if the iKON is handling the whole everything and to put the ESC in multi-rotor mode. knowing how is more of a curiosity as I am the type of guy that likes to know how to use all features of something even if I don't use them.

However, The SS in the ESC seems to be working fine.

I found some post is helifreak where others have experienced the slop in the bell crank, pitch slider, and tail glad grips. It appears to be mostly at the brass arms. I can shim it but most of the replies said the slop didn't effect flight, that removing it was a personal preference type thing. I will check again and post video. Hopefully I can get some time this weekend to do that……I own a small business and my processor's printer went down yesterday. I need to go buy another printer, install it (easy part), and then set it up in Quickbooks to print checks, which could take a while…….

 

[HeliDinoRC]

Another newb questions: Since I need to tighten the main blades a good bit so they don't fold from a good jerk. I'm assuming they will still spin out if they are not installed exactly straight???

 

[murankar]

Yes they should. Tony has a video of an hk600 that he built explaining the blade grips. If I can find it I'll link it.

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[HeliDinoRC]

Thanks, Uri. I'll search for it as well.

 

[Lee]

With my main blades, before spooling up, I hold them in each hand and give them a pull out. This gets them almost perfectly straight, and stops that little wobble you get on first spool up.

 

[Tony]

I'm not sure that video is still up. I have been trying to weed out all of those crap clone videos lol.

The 600 grips will need to be tighter than that of the 450's. And I'm not talking about clamping force, I"m talking about the turn horizontal and shake. When you do the horizontal shake, you should have to jerk pretty hard to get the blades to move, but not have them so tight that you can't fold them back to store the helicopter.

I have found that I can leave my nitro blades a little more loose than I could my electric 600. This is mainly due to the fact that I'm using a clutch that I can slip. With electric, there is no clutch and even with the best soft start, when it starts to spool the blades, it wants to jerk on them pretty hard. For this reason, you will want them a little tighter. I would just test this out with your helicopter and if you see the blades trying to fold, they need to be tightened a little more.

As for going back straight, if they fold just slightly (less than 10º), then yes, once the head reaches normal speed, it will straighten out the blades from centrifugal force. If it doesn't, you will have one wicked vibration. Hope this helps.

 

[HeliDinoRC]

With my main blades, before spooling up, I hold them in each hand and give them a pull out. This gets them almost perfectly straight, and stops that little wobble you get on first spool up.

Thanks for the tip, Lee. I will take you up on doing that! I'm almost to maiden and am getting nervous that I am doing and checking everything just right!

I'm not sure that video is still up. I have been trying to weed out all of those crap clone videos lol.

The 600 grips will need to be tighter than that of the 450's. And I'm not talking about clamping force, I"m talking about the turn horizontal and shake. When you do the horizontal shake, you should have to jerk pretty hard to get the blades to move, but not have them so tight that you can't fold them back to store the helicopter.

I have found that I can leave my nitro blades a little more loose than I could my electric 600. This is mainly due to the fact that I'm using a clutch that I can slip. With electric, there is no clutch and even with the best soft start, when it starts to spool the blades, it wants to jerk on them pretty hard. For this reason, you will want them a little tighter. I would just test this out with your helicopter and if you see the blades trying to fold, they need to be tightened a little more.

As for going back straight, if they fold just slightly (less than 10º), then yes, once the head reaches normal speed, it will straighten out the blades from centrifugal force. If it doesn't, you will have one wicked vibration. Hope this helps.

In my search for your video, it appears the only one left on youtube.com is the tail video!

…..If it doesn't, you will have one wicked vibration.

Okay, cool! I'll know what to look for in the field and cut the motor and check the blades! A lot different than the 450!!! Thanks for the advice, Tony!

- - - Updated - - -

Tony, do you, or anyone, have a video on here on blade tracking?

Again, do I put the big birds in a hover to view tracking or is getting it light on the skids (at just about take off) good enough to check it? This is how I did the 500, 450 and other helis…..

 

[murankar]

Any heli should be checked in the air. Thats when the most load is on the blades. You can rough the tracking on the ground. I too check my 450 while on the ground since I dont have the skill yet to check in a hover and things seem to work just fine. If your setup is dead on then tracking may not be needed.

 

[Tony]

I do my preliminary blade checks on the ground with a pitch gauge. As long as the pitch is the same on both blades, it will track fine in the air.

 

[HeliDinoRC]

Any heli should be checked in the air. Thats when the most load is on the blades. You can rough the tracking on the ground. I too check my 450 while on the ground since I dont have the skill yet to check in a hover and things seem to work just fine. If your setup is dead on then tracking may not be needed.

Thanks, Uri! My thougts exactly! I don't want to take my eyes and concentration away from hovering.....perhaps I can get a quick look but my concentration will be on keeping it in the air.

I do my preliminary blade checks on the ground with a pitch gauge. As long as the pitch is the same on both blades, it will track fine in the air.

I am assuming you check pitch on both blades at low, middle, and high stick on the bench and rotate the head so you are checking each blade in the same position. i.e. if I check blade number 1 from the front, I spin blade number 2 around to the front to check it.........this is on my list of Pre-Maiden bench verifications and checks.

 

[murankar]

Yes use the same location for both blades. Also from what I have seen in build vids, there should be marks on the grips that are used to zero the grips at mid stick.

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