600 Building the JR Vibe NEX E8 - Slow Build

stokke

Well-Known Member
Problem is if yu have to take it apart you'll strip the screw heads!
You may need to heat the bolts to loosen them... ...The amount of TL I use is just enough to get the threads wet...

My entire 450 is assembled using red TL. Every time I have to take out bolts I use my soldering iron, and the bolt come out nicely. I should note that when setting the bolt back in, I'm using blue TL (except critical parts like shaft bolts and such, there I still use red TL).

I use a very little amount when applying TL, only a small drop on the end of the bolts, maybe 1 mm of threading.

Awe man that thing is coming together nicely.

Thanks, Adam :D

Usually doesn't end well the first time, just ask Gaba lmao.

LOL :D

As you have night mares after lol...

I'm hoping to be spared the nightmares. At least the first flights :D
 

stokke

Well-Known Member
Assembling swash.
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The longer ball links will not be used, as they're for 140 deg swash.
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Finished.
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Assembling links.
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When setting the length of the rods, you can simply place them on the instruction page. Just like bolts.
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Done.
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Swash installed.
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Beginning with the tail
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Assembling the torque tube.
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Torque tube bearing.
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I was punished for not reading the instructions closely enough, as it stated to put on the bearing before doing anything else. LOL
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Having already set the mesh, the front tail case had been fixed. This caused me not being able to insert the bolts for the boom mount.
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So I had to loosen the entire tail case :(
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Then I realized the tail case gear is mounted a tad higher than the auto rotation gear, almost brushing against the main gear.
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This concerns me. It will probably work, but after maybe 100 flights there will be some play and the gear might start to grind during hard maneuvers. So I started dismantling stuff...

Took out both main bearing blocks.
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That's when I noticed the bearing blocks are in fact different, something I didn't notice during the initial assembly.
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I switched around the main bearing blocks. So now the top one is at the bottom, and the bottom at the top. This actually raised the main gear slightly. But still, the auto rotation gear is still a tad lower than the tail gear. So I decided to remove the entire tail case.
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I suspected this white gear to be a bit high on it's shaft.
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But trying to loosen the bearings from the shaft proved to be harder than I thought. The loctite 641 has secured the bearings REAL GOOD. I tried heating and prying, no go...
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So I remembered I probably took a pic of the shaft without the bearings. This way I could check if there is any more room to move the bearings at all. But there is not.
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I will be assembling the tail case again and putting it back. I'll put everything back together and come back with an update.

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stokke

Well-Known Member
I've decided to go to my LHS tomorrow looking for a shim to place between the lower main bearing and main gear. I'm not comfortable with the gears not lining up properly, and will pause the build until I get it right.
 

flysolo

Member
Been following your build, good stuff :)

I think that is a wise decision.. feels like the strain on the gears can be quite hard if not lined up properly.
 

stokke

Well-Known Member
Been following your build, good stuff :)

I think that is a wise decision.. feels like the strain on the gears can be quite hard if not lined up properly.

Thanks :D

I went down to the LHS last night. They've been advertising their changed opening hours lately. They are supposed to be open later now than before, to 7 PM. 6.30 PM I stood outside the shop, NOT OPEN!! :( Even on the door it was stated they'd be open until 7.00 PM!! So I had to go home without any shims...

So now I have ordered the shims online.
 

stokke

Well-Known Member
Ordered my a set of shims for the main shaft. Went ahead and got the JR swash leveler as well.
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One 0.5 mm shim did the job.
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Height of auto rotation gear is now perfect :D
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Redid the mesh over again. TL'd all bolts over again. All is good. Again. LOL
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Boom in place and secured.
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Starting with tail rotor assembly.
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Rear tail case.
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Dry assembly. The shims to the right is for mesh.
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Meshing.
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Ended up using one shim.
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Tail case mounted on the boom.
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Tail guard bracket.
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Tail pitch slider assembly.
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Slider unit with bearings installed.
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Pitch arm.
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These "elbows" on the pitch arms are assembled with pins. The only thing holding the pins in place are some small "washers with grabbers" (don't know what they're called). They seem to be on there good, but I can't help but to think these small thin brackets may loosen and fly off. I'll definitely keep an eye on these pre- and post flights.

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Slider unit mounted to the pitch arm assembly.
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Slider bracket.
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Slider bracket mounted.
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Complete slider assembly mounted.
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Tail rotor bearing assembly.
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Tail thrust bearing. Unlike Align, JR does not have an "in" and "out".
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Thrust bearing in place, stuffed with grease.
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One side finished.
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Tail blade bearing assembly mounted to tail shaft.
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Tail blade grips.
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Tail rotor complete.
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The grips turn free with no play - very satisfied ;)
I've read some reports that the JR stock 95mm tail blades have had some issues. So I will probably swap them out with some 105mm Edge or Raddix.
 

coolgabsi

Super Mod & DEAL KING!
That looks so cool!! Esp the red accents..love it man!!!


Hey one thing. I have read up and used those tail blades ... They are the one thing that is straight up crappy. I would order Kbdd 96mm or another equivalent. Like align or something.. Just my 2 cents ...(or a heads up) ;)
 

stokke

Well-Known Member
Stopped by the post office on my way to work this morning. Picked up 700 bucks worth of servos ;)

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Tony

Staff member
I hope your definition of "Bucks" is different than what it is here in America lol. If it's the same, that is almost $200 a servo...
 

Tony

Staff member
Dayumn lmao. You make more money than I do then lmao. That is going to be one SICK helicopter when you are done with it.
 

stokke

Well-Known Member
That is going to be one SICK helicopter when you are done with it.

That's what I'm planning ;) Just hope I don't crash it on the first flight...

btw. I make 30.17 USD an hour, one piece of bread costs 5.32 USD, the rent on my apartment is 887.4 USD a month, me and my GF's new apartment (under construction) cost us 479 214 USD. As you see, it all adds up, it's just the difference between currencies that makes it look like I make more money than you. Also, I have no kids or any special responsibilities to take care of, so I can afford it.
 

coolgabsi

Super Mod & DEAL KING!
Good that you got awesome servos to start with! The price is Ouch!!!! But hey it's worth if right!! ?? ;) lol

I got align ds610's for my vibe this week too. Realized my servos had too much torque but kinda slow on 600 specs.. So had to upgrade! :)

Man you got everything now right?? Maiden it!!!
 

murankar

Staff member
Good choice on servos. I love mine when its flying. It could have been worse if you would've gotten the kds servos. Good luck.
 

stokke

Well-Known Member
The price is Ouch!!!! But hey it's worth if right!! ?? ;) lol

We'll see...

I got align ds610's for my vibe this week too. Realized my servos had too much torque but kinda slow on 600 specs.. So had to upgrade! :)

Man you got everything now right?? Maiden it!!!

Congrats on the servos! You should make a "before and after" vid to show the difference.

I'm still missing a bunch of expensive stuff. LOL
So no maiden just yet ;)

- - - Updated - - -

Good choice on servos. I love mine when its flying. It could have been worse if you would've gotten the kds servos. Good luck.

Thanks, Matthias.
I sure hope these will do the job.
They're certainly some of the fastest servos around.
 
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stokke

Well-Known Member
Finishing up the tail.

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Tail support struts.
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The ends for the struts had to be bonded with epoxy.
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Struts finished.
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Bracket for the horizontal tail fin.
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Done!
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Rudder linkage rod.
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Installing servos.
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I've gotten some really speedy, but yet powerful servos.

Savöx SB-2271SG digital brushless for cyclic. 0.06 sec/20kg.
Savöx SB-2272SG digital brushless for rudder 0.03 sec/7kg.

These will be run directly on 2S lipo (7,4V). This should give slightly longer flight time (compared to BEC), and also make the servos work at maximum power.

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The servos had some sort of plastic ridge standing out on the mounting surface.
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I filed down these so the mounting surface will sit perfectly flush against the frame.
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One down, three to go...
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All servos mounted :D
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I would like to note that the servos are mounted in accordance to the 120° set-up, NOT 140°.
I will leave the wires hanging for now, as I'll run all wiring at the very end of my build.
 
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