600 Building the JR Vibe NEX E8 - Slow Build
- Thread starter stokke
- Start date
stokke
Well-Known Member
After re-drilling the holes on the battery plate I was able to mount it in the "battery hull".
Assembling servo arms, gyro plates and landing gear.
Elevator servo arm.
Notice the alignment rods going through the frame just behind the servo arm bearings. This is temporarily mounted so the exterior ball arm can be mounted in the correct position.
Ball arm thingy.
Alignment rods removed.
Elevator arm finished.
Mounting pitch and aileron servo arms.
As I will be utilizing 120° swash, I will be using the longest bolts. I guess the shorter ones will not be used at all during this build.
Again, utilizing 120° set-up, I will be using both spacers - as the 140° would only use on spacer.
Both arms secured.
Mounting landing gear.
Gyro mount (inside).
When securing the second gyro mount, I was a bit baffled as I did not have the correct bolts?? So after looking back at where I might have used the wrong bolts, I found the first gyro mount was mounted with 6mm bolts and the manual asks for 6mm for the second as well. I could only conclude that my build had been delivered with 4 pieces of 6mm and 4 pieces of 8mm - and that it SHOULD have been delivered with 8 pieces of 6mm bolts. I uses the remaining 8mm bolts on the last gyro mount and it turned out nicely - no problem.
I found this also to be a bit confusing. This is the first picture in the manual. Notice the top canopy mount has been secured in the schematics.
This is the second step, NOW we come to mounting the top canopy mounts. It's no biggy, but a bit confusing that "future" parts have been mounted in the schematics. Anyways............
Top (exterior) gyro mount.
Canopy mounts.
Assembling the landing gear. The landing "tubes" were not in the "landing gear bag". But I found them in another bag named "E8 TAIL & OTHERS". LOL
Bottom frame bracket mounted.
Landing gear assembled and secured.
Installing shaft.
The manual states to use the SUPPLIED grease on the main gear. I cannot find this grease in any of the bags.
I got some silicone grease on a hardware store. But I will wait until the build is finished before applying this, as I wish to see if the "supplied" grease shows up magically somewhere. Also, I wish to set up mesh before applying grease.
I used my grease cleaner to clean the shaft before installing it, as I want the shaft collar and grub screw to get a good hold on the shaft. Don't want the shaft to come loose during flight!
Shaft collar secured. No vertical movement on the shaft of course.
During the frame build I have been somewhat concerned with the rigidity and sturdiness of this thing. As the frame is not a "square box" as most other helis utilize, but a more complex structure. But after installing all these last parts, this thing seems very rigid indeed. Although I hope I'll never have to put it to the test
Assembling servo arms, gyro plates and landing gear.
Elevator servo arm.
Notice the alignment rods going through the frame just behind the servo arm bearings. This is temporarily mounted so the exterior ball arm can be mounted in the correct position.
Ball arm thingy.
Alignment rods removed.
Elevator arm finished.
Mounting pitch and aileron servo arms.
As I will be utilizing 120° swash, I will be using the longest bolts. I guess the shorter ones will not be used at all during this build.
Again, utilizing 120° set-up, I will be using both spacers - as the 140° would only use on spacer.
Both arms secured.
Mounting landing gear.
Gyro mount (inside).
When securing the second gyro mount, I was a bit baffled as I did not have the correct bolts?? So after looking back at where I might have used the wrong bolts, I found the first gyro mount was mounted with 6mm bolts and the manual asks for 6mm for the second as well. I could only conclude that my build had been delivered with 4 pieces of 6mm and 4 pieces of 8mm - and that it SHOULD have been delivered with 8 pieces of 6mm bolts. I uses the remaining 8mm bolts on the last gyro mount and it turned out nicely - no problem.
I found this also to be a bit confusing. This is the first picture in the manual. Notice the top canopy mount has been secured in the schematics.
This is the second step, NOW we come to mounting the top canopy mounts. It's no biggy, but a bit confusing that "future" parts have been mounted in the schematics. Anyways............
Top (exterior) gyro mount.
Canopy mounts.
Assembling the landing gear. The landing "tubes" were not in the "landing gear bag". But I found them in another bag named "E8 TAIL & OTHERS". LOL
Bottom frame bracket mounted.
Landing gear assembled and secured.
Installing shaft.
The manual states to use the SUPPLIED grease on the main gear. I cannot find this grease in any of the bags.
I got some silicone grease on a hardware store. But I will wait until the build is finished before applying this, as I wish to see if the "supplied" grease shows up magically somewhere. Also, I wish to set up mesh before applying grease.
I used my grease cleaner to clean the shaft before installing it, as I want the shaft collar and grub screw to get a good hold on the shaft. Don't want the shaft to come loose during flight!
Shaft collar secured. No vertical movement on the shaft of course.
During the frame build I have been somewhat concerned with the rigidity and sturdiness of this thing. As the frame is not a "square box" as most other helis utilize, but a more complex structure. But after installing all these last parts, this thing seems very rigid indeed. Although I hope I'll never have to put it to the test
stokke
Well-Known Member
There's little self control guys, It's cash that's holding me back. I just can't afford to get all the parts at once
Therefore I'm trying to take my good time building this thing. My wallet predicts the JR won't be finished until maybe January. But I'm excited none the less Bird is looking great. Keep it up.
Thanks, Tony!
coolgabsi
Super Mod & DEAL KING!
WAit.. I noticed something. Bro your main gear is helical.. and I see that your pinion is straight. That wont work.. or will destroy the gear / and or you'll have a massive gear mesh issue.. Check that out.. I hope I saw it right..
Make sure you get helical Pinion for your motor.. just wanna make sure
- - - Updated - - -
wait I think I saw a pic uptop with only the pinion that is a helical.. oops.. lol anywaz..
Make sure you get helical Pinion for your motor.. just wanna make sure
- - - Updated - - -
wait I think I saw a pic uptop with only the pinion that is a helical.. oops.. lol anywaz..
stokke
Well-Known Member
LOL. I could buy an entire 450 SPORT for the cost of all fours servos. Each part makes a serious dent in my economy. My GF isn't all that happy about me "wasting" my money on these "toys" either
I'll save the comparison photos until she's all finished with blades and everything
You didn't
stokke
Well-Known Member
Setting mesh.
As the motor pinion gear can be slid so far out that it's not in contact with the main gear, I opted to do the mesh for tail gear first (as the tail gears cannot be slid out of transmission).
As you can see, even with the tail gear slid as far back as possible the gears are still in transmission with the main.
I used the paper trick to set the mesh. I was not satisfied with the result given by using one layer of standard weight A4 printer paper, so I ended up using 3 layers before I was comfortable with the result.
With three layers, there's some slight play - but I deem it perfect.
Ended up using two layers on the pinion gear. Got maybe a tad less play than on the tail gears, but I'm very comfortable with the result.
It took some attempts
Pinion mesh close up.
Tail gear mesh close up.
All bolts thread locked and secured.
Motor assembly.
My motor utilizes M4 bolts. The kit provides both M4 and M3 for whatever motor you may choose to use. The motor mount supports 25mm spacing with M3, or 30~34mm spacing with M4.
Motor mount secured.
Motor installed. Pinion grub screws tightened.
It was especially satisfying installing the motor, really gets me excited!
The frame gained some considerable weight with the motor mounted, even though the Turnigy SK3 is actually a rather light motor compared to it's rivals in the same range. As you can see from the pictures, the motor is a tight fit and is only millimeters from touching the frame. The instructions state to use blue TL on the motor parts, but I chose to use red TL on all parts in direct relation to the motor - don't want this thing to come loose!
As the motor pinion gear can be slid so far out that it's not in contact with the main gear, I opted to do the mesh for tail gear first (as the tail gears cannot be slid out of transmission).
As you can see, even with the tail gear slid as far back as possible the gears are still in transmission with the main.
I used the paper trick to set the mesh. I was not satisfied with the result given by using one layer of standard weight A4 printer paper, so I ended up using 3 layers before I was comfortable with the result.
With three layers, there's some slight play - but I deem it perfect.
Ended up using two layers on the pinion gear. Got maybe a tad less play than on the tail gears, but I'm very comfortable with the result.
It took some attempts
Pinion mesh close up.
Tail gear mesh close up.
All bolts thread locked and secured.
Motor assembly.
My motor utilizes M4 bolts. The kit provides both M4 and M3 for whatever motor you may choose to use. The motor mount supports 25mm spacing with M3, or 30~34mm spacing with M4.
Motor mount secured.
Motor installed. Pinion grub screws tightened.
It was especially satisfying installing the motor, really gets me excited!
The frame gained some considerable weight with the motor mounted, even though the Turnigy SK3 is actually a rather light motor compared to it's rivals in the same range. As you can see from the pictures, the motor is a tight fit and is only millimeters from touching the frame. The instructions state to use blue TL on the motor parts, but I chose to use red TL on all parts in direct relation to the motor - don't want this thing to come loose!
Last edited:
murankar
Staff member
You may need to heat the bolts to loosen them. Even then it might be tough to get out. I use blue and I torque them down a little so that they hold very well. My Scorpion motor gets warmer than my Exceed motor and the Exceed has come loose on me twice. My Scorpion has yet to come loose on me. To torque the bolts I use needle nose to grip the hex key (the kind that have the bend in them) and tighten down. The amount of TL I use is just enough to get the threads wet.
Tony
Staff member
Just make sure you have that grub screw on the pinion to shaft down good and tight. IF that comes loose you will get your first lesson in Auto Rotation Landings lol. Usually doesn't end well the first time, just ask Gaba lmao.
And when this heli is done, I'm thinking it will weigh about 9lbs AUW.
And when this heli is done, I'm thinking it will weigh about 9lbs AUW.
Tony
Staff member
Mine was inverted first time the engine quit on me... Peed myself ... Nope it doesn't o well. As you have night mares because of "TALL GRASS"
Gaba has an intimate relation with "Tall Grass"
coolgabsi
Super Mod & DEAL KING!
Gaba has an intimate relation with "Tall Grass"
Believe me! I do!! Lol