600 Building the JR Vibe NEX E8 - Slow Build
- Thread starter stokke
- Start date
stokke
Well-Known Member
I have the DX7S. It supports 140.
stokke
Well-Known Member
Your input has been taken into consideration. Thanks 
But I have been doing some reading on the topic, and turns out the 140° swash is technically speaking the perfect set-up when so called "interactions" are to be eliminated completely. This has to do with the swash servos not moving exactly the same length; the elevator servo actually has a different "stroke/throw" than the aileron and pitch servo. The difference is very little and only noticeable for very experienced pilots. This difference is also compensated for in the Tx and/or the Rx/FBL to some degree on 120° systems.
And in spite of having the option to choose this fabulous set-up, I'm going with the 120°. Why, you may ask? Well, turns out most of the RC-world is still using 120° and therefore most FBL systems are designed around 120° set-ups. Not that a 140° swash would be a problem on a high end FBL, but I'm going with "budget" BeastX, and don't want to take the chance. Also there's the fact that I'm used to flying 120° on my 450, and I would like the "feel" of both my JR and Align to be as similar as possible.
On some parts of the instructions I have the choice between 120° or 140°. From this point on I will be building per the 120° set-up.
_______
Tonight I assembled the swash arms.
Bearings installed.
Balls.
The A-arm for the elevator came like this in the package. The plastic "shaft" on top there had to be broken off.
Bearings.
A-arm assembly completed. I did not tighten the linkage rod, as JR operates with the same inn/out markings as Align does. The small JR brand on the link is supposed to be out, but if I've tightened the rod now the brand is pulled into the top of the plastic "tube" and I won't know which way is which when I come to mount this thing.
Main gear assembly.
This step was very easy. Only four bolts to be mounted. Anti rotation bearing comes pre-greased.
I've been waiting on this baby for some days now, and finally she arrived
Turnigy SK3 Helidrive Competition series. 560 KV. 4100W.
I have been concerned that I would have to machine or drill my motor mount, as the Hobbyking website stated the motor has 25mm bolt spacing and utilize M4 bolts. My JR however has the two possibilities; 2x M3 with 25mm spacing, or 2x M4 with 30mm spacing.
Hobbyking's tech spec. Notice the Screw Mounting Spacing.
The JR's motor mount.
Well, either I'm a moron at understanding specs, or Hobbyking have not provided the corrrect specs on their website. Because all the holes match up PERFECTLY
But I have been doing some reading on the topic, and turns out the 140° swash is technically speaking the perfect set-up when so called "interactions" are to be eliminated completely. This has to do with the swash servos not moving exactly the same length; the elevator servo actually has a different "stroke/throw" than the aileron and pitch servo. The difference is very little and only noticeable for very experienced pilots. This difference is also compensated for in the Tx and/or the Rx/FBL to some degree on 120° systems.
And in spite of having the option to choose this fabulous set-up, I'm going with the 120°. Why, you may ask? Well, turns out most of the RC-world is still using 120° and therefore most FBL systems are designed around 120° set-ups. Not that a 140° swash would be a problem on a high end FBL, but I'm going with "budget" BeastX, and don't want to take the chance. Also there's the fact that I'm used to flying 120° on my 450, and I would like the "feel" of both my JR and Align to be as similar as possible.
On some parts of the instructions I have the choice between 120° or 140°. From this point on I will be building per the 120° set-up.
_______
Tonight I assembled the swash arms.
Bearings installed.
Balls.
The A-arm for the elevator came like this in the package. The plastic "shaft" on top there had to be broken off.
Bearings.
A-arm assembly completed. I did not tighten the linkage rod, as JR operates with the same inn/out markings as Align does. The small JR brand on the link is supposed to be out, but if I've tightened the rod now the brand is pulled into the top of the plastic "tube" and I won't know which way is which when I come to mount this thing.
Main gear assembly.
This step was very easy. Only four bolts to be mounted. Anti rotation bearing comes pre-greased.
I've been waiting on this baby for some days now, and finally she arrived
Turnigy SK3 Helidrive Competition series. 560 KV. 4100W.
I have been concerned that I would have to machine or drill my motor mount, as the Hobbyking website stated the motor has 25mm bolt spacing and utilize M4 bolts. My JR however has the two possibilities; 2x M3 with 25mm spacing, or 2x M4 with 30mm spacing.
Hobbyking's tech spec. Notice the Screw Mounting Spacing.
The JR's motor mount.
Well, either I'm a moron at understanding specs, or Hobbyking have not provided the corrrect specs on their website. Because all the holes match up PERFECTLY
stokke
Well-Known Member
Assembling battery tray and first step of the frame.
Sanded the edges.
Made a mess as usual
All edges smooth
Found something strange: The bolts to be used on the battery tray are so called flat head button screws. The point being that the head of the bolt is supposed to be flush with the mounting surface when secured firmly. The holes are drilled in such a manner that the bolt head sits "inside" the surface. BUT, it seems on my battery tray, four of the holes are drilled wrong...
As you can see, the holes to the far right are correctly drilled - but the holes to the left is not.
The diagram shows all holes drilled in the same manner.
When trying to mount the bolts in these "defect" holes, the bolt head sticks out on top
I'll leave this part unfinished for now. I'll wait until the rest of the frame is finished, then I can see if I can go about this in another way. If I end up having to use these holes, I'll just get a big drill bit and modify the battery tray myself. I'll be disappointed if it turns out the part is made wrong from the factory...
Another frame part.
Canopy mounts secured.
Sanded the edges.
Made a mess as usual
All edges smooth
Found something strange: The bolts to be used on the battery tray are so called flat head button screws. The point being that the head of the bolt is supposed to be flush with the mounting surface when secured firmly. The holes are drilled in such a manner that the bolt head sits "inside" the surface. BUT, it seems on my battery tray, four of the holes are drilled wrong...
As you can see, the holes to the far right are correctly drilled - but the holes to the left is not.
The diagram shows all holes drilled in the same manner.
When trying to mount the bolts in these "defect" holes, the bolt head sticks out on top
I'll leave this part unfinished for now. I'll wait until the rest of the frame is finished, then I can see if I can go about this in another way. If I end up having to use these holes, I'll just get a big drill bit and modify the battery tray myself. I'll be disappointed if it turns out the part is made wrong from the factory...
Another frame part.
Canopy mounts secured.
Tony
Staff member
There was an issue I found with the straps I had. Turns out the new strap material I was using is not compatible with the vinyl I was using. Once I found this issue, I removed them immediately until I could find the correct vinyl. However life got in the way and I have not had time to do any of it. but I will soon I hope.
stokke
Well-Known Member
Oooh. Me want!
stokke
Well-Known Member
Frame assembly.
All edges sanded smooth.
These two bearings had to be secured to the frame using epoxy. I'm not impressed with how JR goes about this, as I had to purchase a big epoxy kit and considering the unbelievably small amount needed. They could have provided some small bottles or something
This is the amount needed (in fact it's too much).
The epoxy instructions said to apply some epoxy to the part being mounted, as well as the mounting surface. This turned out to become an excessive amount, as the epoxy squeezed out on the opposite side of the frame almost coming onto the bearing walls. So if you're ever doing this; a small amount on the bearing, and that's it!
Both bearings in place. This particular epoxy is set after 15 minutes, which is a bit fast - as I could feel the epoxy starting to cure when installing the last bearing. So go with 30 min curing epoxy.
Another non labeled bag of screws. This was found in the larger "step 2" bag, so there is a sort of logic to it.
Inside the bag above.
Pinion and shaft bearings partly secured.
Front tail gear assembly installed into frame (This guy can be moved forwards and backwards to adjust for mesh).
The heli factory LOL
Frame inner supports.
Time to get this baby a bit wider
How the side frames are supported from the inside.
Side frames secured.
Battery clamp in place.
The next step calls for the battery tray to be installed. But as I mentioned earlier, the battery bracket had a factory defect - or more of a factory mishap. They forgot to drill all the holes correctly. So I had to do it myself - go a power drill and a 8mm drill bit.
All edges sanded smooth.
These two bearings had to be secured to the frame using epoxy. I'm not impressed with how JR goes about this, as I had to purchase a big epoxy kit and considering the unbelievably small amount needed. They could have provided some small bottles or something
This is the amount needed (in fact it's too much).
The epoxy instructions said to apply some epoxy to the part being mounted, as well as the mounting surface. This turned out to become an excessive amount, as the epoxy squeezed out on the opposite side of the frame almost coming onto the bearing walls. So if you're ever doing this; a small amount on the bearing, and that's it!
Both bearings in place. This particular epoxy is set after 15 minutes, which is a bit fast - as I could feel the epoxy starting to cure when installing the last bearing. So go with 30 min curing epoxy.
Another non labeled bag of screws. This was found in the larger "step 2" bag, so there is a sort of logic to it.
Inside the bag above.
Pinion and shaft bearings partly secured.
Front tail gear assembly installed into frame (This guy can be moved forwards and backwards to adjust for mesh).
The heli factory
LOL
Frame inner supports.
Time to get this baby a bit wider
How the side frames are supported from the inside.
Side frames secured.
Battery clamp in place.
The next step calls for the battery tray to be installed. But as I mentioned earlier, the battery bracket had a factory defect - or more of a factory mishap. They forgot to drill all the holes correctly. So I had to do it myself - go a power drill and a 8mm drill bit.
stokke
Well-Known Member
Thanks, Gaba
A big lady for sure! Thanks, Tony
Thanks, Sam
I believe this may save some weight compared to e.g. the Align series, but I also believe this will be at the cost of rigidity. We'll see