450 Building my first! - Align T-Rex 450 Pro V2 3GX
- Thread starter stokke
- Start date
stokke
Well-Known Member
It's alive!!
Setting up the 3GX with a Receiver: My findings
It should be noted that in Tony's videos, he is using the 3GX-unit with satellite-receivers.
The way I'm going to do it will have a different approach, since I do not have two satellite-receivers available.
My bird was delivered with an included ESC.
This ESC has a built-in BEC.
ESC = Electronic Speed Controller = Device which outputs power and speed-signal to motor. Has input from battery, and input-signal from receiver.
BEC = Battery Eliminator Circuit = Device which converts battery-power to a usable voltage for the receiver.
My set-up:
Battery >
ESC >
Align 3GX unit >
Spektrum AR8000 receiver >
Spektrum satellite.
The ESC's throttle-signal/power connected to the 3GX's THROTTLE-port (this powers the 3GX).
The 3GX's BATTERY-OUT connected to the AR8000's AUX3-port (this powers the AR).
Servos connected to the 3GX-unit.
The AR8000's channels: RUD,AIL,ELE,AUX1,THR,GYRO all connects to the 3GX (the AR8000's channel for pitch is AUX1).
An optional satellite is connected to the AR8000's satellite-port.
NOTE: The 3GX will not power up or show any sign of life UNLESS all wires are connected, this includes the servos.
NOTE: The binding-process takes place from the AR8000's BIND-port.
NOTE: Binding may take more than one try.
These are my personal findings, and are subject of coincidence and/or stupidity.
It works...
Setting up the 3GX with a Receiver: My findings
It should be noted that in Tony's videos, he is using the 3GX-unit with satellite-receivers.
The way I'm going to do it will have a different approach, since I do not have two satellite-receivers available.
My bird was delivered with an included ESC.
This ESC has a built-in BEC.
ESC = Electronic Speed Controller = Device which outputs power and speed-signal to motor. Has input from battery, and input-signal from receiver.
BEC = Battery Eliminator Circuit = Device which converts battery-power to a usable voltage for the receiver.
My set-up:
Battery >
ESC >
Align 3GX unit >
Spektrum AR8000 receiver >
Spektrum satellite.
The ESC's throttle-signal/power connected to the 3GX's THROTTLE-port (this powers the 3GX).
The 3GX's BATTERY-OUT connected to the AR8000's AUX3-port (this powers the AR).
Servos connected to the 3GX-unit.
The AR8000's channels: RUD,AIL,ELE,AUX1,THR,GYRO all connects to the 3GX (the AR8000's channel for pitch is AUX1).
An optional satellite is connected to the AR8000's satellite-port.
NOTE: The 3GX will not power up or show any sign of life UNLESS all wires are connected, this includes the servos.
NOTE: The binding-process takes place from the AR8000's BIND-port.
NOTE: Binding may take more than one try.
These are my personal findings, and are subject of coincidence and/or stupidity.
It works...
callsign4223
Staff member
The soldering on that connection looks a lot better. It really just takes a lot of practice to get proficient with soldering.
Looking real good Stokke. Cant help you with your ?'s but I like the way you are laying this out.
Callsign thanks for the soldering tips. Its been a long long time, but I do remember the techniques learned, and what you say is right on the money. Will help me when my kit gets in..
Keep up the good work and the great format to which you are giving us your progress...
Sterling H.
Callsign thanks for the soldering tips. Its been a long long time, but I do remember the techniques learned, and what you say is right on the money. Will help me when my kit gets in..
Keep up the good work and the great format to which you are giving us your progress...
Sterling H.
stokke
Well-Known Member
Thanks, Matt. I really felt it went better this time. Will definitively lay down some more soldering-training at a later stage.
Thanks, Sterling H. I try to keep my thread as informative as possible, and will continue doing so.
Continuing.
After finally getting the electronics to work properly, I could start mounting servos.
Powered up the electronics, put my transmitter to middle stick - and used the "monitor"-setting in the DX7S to make sure the sticks were perfectly centered (that 1% on rudder was a pain, could not make it 0% for the life of me).
After some swapping around with the servo-horns I settled for this.
Ball mounted. Servo-horn fixed in place.
When mounting the servos for pitch and aileron, I stuck some folded paper in between servos and frame-walls. I did this so the spacing would be as near perfect as possible.
Servos in place!
(It should be noted that while watching Tony's video on this part, he mentions the servos might need to be taken out again when the motor is to be fixed in place...)
Test-fitting. Starting to resemble a heli?!
The instructions does not illustrate which screw to be used on the tail-servo. So I will be waiting until the build is nearing the end, and see what screws remain. Any input on this is of course welcome.
Starting out with the rear tail-block.
I was a bit skeptical to see the ball-joints on the tail-block (mounted in plastic-parts) were not fixed very well. But then after rummaging through the instructions, I found that it states the balls should be applied some CA-glue. And that's exactly what I did.
Another ball.
Started disassembling the tail-block.
Applied thread-lock, and checked everything.
Back together again.
A small concern:
When manually checking the pitch for the tail-rotor, I noticed that there is a tiny, tiny bit of drag (or binding i think its called). When I rotate the tail-rotor 180 degrees, it did not drag as much - when I rotate it another 180 degrees, the drag becomes more noticeable - well, you get the gist?
So the drag is in the sliding bearing on the shaft for the tail-rotor-pitch. Hope this is understandable.
My concern is that the tail-rotor-shaft is not perfectly straight?
I did loosen all screws (again), to check if the problem persisted, and it did.
Pleas note the drag (or bind) is extremely light, and only noticeable when manually changing the pitch very slowly.
Is this a concern?
The instructions states that any binding on this part is very unwanted.
stokke
Well-Known Member
Continued to troubleshoot the pitch-slider for the tail rotor today. After last nights assembling, disassembling, assembling and almost scratching my head bold - I went back in there. Started out disassembling AGAIN...
Then i found that one of the brass-bearings had almost stuck! It seemed some thread-lock had come in there, causing the screw which is wearing the brass-bearing to turn slower than the one on the opposite side of the tail-rotor shaft.
I struggled to remove the brass-bearing from the screw, but when it finally came out, it got a good cleaning and a SMALL amount of TL. After assembling the tail-rotor assembly again, the binding on the pitch-slider was almost gone. There are still some extremely small amount of drag when moving the slider, but I have deemed this perfectly acceptable. I will keep an eye on this part though - just to be on the safe side.
Started with the tail-boom.
Measuring to find the position for the shaft-bearing. It is to be glued in place with a small drop of CA.
Tail blades mounted.
Bearing-holder for the tail-shaft mounted. Used some oil in order for the holder to slide over the bearing.
Boom good to go.
Rear tail-case mounted (forgot to mount the tail-guard, LOL).
Front tail-block mounted.
I have a small concern about this. The shaft is not fixed to the front block in any way, other than the block is clamping down on the boom. I know the boom support-struts will hold the tail as well, but is there a chance of the boom flying out of there under special sircumstances???
This part came pre-assembled with one screw shorter than the other... Will keep this in mind to see if there are any remaining screws at the end which might be used.
Tail ready.
Assembling links for the cyclic servos.
Screws and stuff.
Checked the gear-assembly, added some oil. Checked the screws.
Main-gear in place.
The procedure of installing this took quite some time. As I had to take out the main-shaft several times to check for up/downwards play. I ended up using the thicker spacer/washer (0,20 mm) to get it perfect. The auto-rotation gear is working smoothly, and there is no play.
Servo link in place.
Anti-rotation bracket in place.
Tail in place. IT'S LOOKING LIKE A CHOPPA!!
Starting to get exited now!
View attachment P1000240.jpg
Then i found that one of the brass-bearings had almost stuck! It seemed some thread-lock had come in there, causing the screw which is wearing the brass-bearing to turn slower than the one on the opposite side of the tail-rotor shaft.
I struggled to remove the brass-bearing from the screw, but when it finally came out, it got a good cleaning and a SMALL amount of TL. After assembling the tail-rotor assembly again, the binding on the pitch-slider was almost gone. There are still some extremely small amount of drag when moving the slider, but I have deemed this perfectly acceptable. I will keep an eye on this part though - just to be on the safe side.
Started with the tail-boom.
Measuring to find the position for the shaft-bearing. It is to be glued in place with a small drop of CA.
Tail blades mounted.
Bearing-holder for the tail-shaft mounted. Used some oil in order for the holder to slide over the bearing.
Boom good to go.
Rear tail-case mounted (forgot to mount the tail-guard, LOL).
Front tail-block mounted.
I have a small concern about this. The shaft is not fixed to the front block in any way, other than the block is clamping down on the boom. I know the boom support-struts will hold the tail as well, but is there a chance of the boom flying out of there under special sircumstances???
This part came pre-assembled with one screw shorter than the other... Will keep this in mind to see if there are any remaining screws at the end which might be used.
Tail ready.
Assembling links for the cyclic servos.
Screws and stuff.
Checked the gear-assembly, added some oil. Checked the screws.
Main-gear in place.
The procedure of installing this took quite some time. As I had to take out the main-shaft several times to check for up/downwards play. I ended up using the thicker spacer/washer (0,20 mm) to get it perfect. The auto-rotation gear is working smoothly, and there is no play.
Servo link in place.
Anti-rotation bracket in place.
Tail in place. IT'S LOOKING LIKE A CHOPPA!!
Starting to get exited now!
View attachment P1000240.jpg
Tony
Staff member
I have seen that issue with the thread lock getting inside that brass sleeve and causing it to bind like that. Mine didn't have it, but it's common. As for the tail boom in the front block, it will hold just fine. People do hard core 3D with these and they stay put. No worries there as long as you tighten them down lol. As for the two different length bolts in the support mount, that is odd. and I really hope you didn't oil the one way bearing with just any old oil, it needs to be oil with friction modifiers in it so it can still grab. Regular oil will cause it to slip. As for the rest of it, it's starting to look really good.
stokke
Well-Known Member
Crap. I used my universal-oil on the one way bearing! The instructions just said "oil".
I will examine the main gear and check the one way function when I get home from work.
The oil I am using is very thin, and I'm hoping the viscosity is so thin i just might be saved.
I'll come back to this later today/night.
Thanks Tony.
Tony
Staff member
Just try to spin the head while holding onto the main gear. Put some pretty good torque on it to make sure. If it does slip you will need to use a cleaner like brake cleaner to get all of the oil out of the bearing. Make sure there is no plastic anywhere if you use brake cleaner or the like, because it will eat plastic. If it doesn't slip, just keep an eye on it when flying.
Tony
Staff member
That is correct stokke, it allows the motor to stop while still allowing the head and tail to spin free for auto rotation landings for when you lose power. And Lee that is good to hear you have used the same oil. I have always used grease that I used in the diffs of my cars and trucks that I used to race. It was grease, but it was ment to lube, but not slip. Made by RPM or Team Trinity.
stokke
Well-Known Member
It's good to hear I'm contributing! If you watch Tony's videos on the same helicopter and follow along with my posts, I'm sure much of what you learn can be applied to your Sport-model. As far as I know, the only difference between the Pro 3GX and your Sport, is that you will have to set up the flybar with links. I also suspect the Sport has a belt-driven tail?
I wish you good luck on your upcoming build, and will be following your build-thread should you make one.
Continuing.
Today I started installing the motor.
I mentioned earlier I might have to remove the servos in order to get to the motor-mounts. Well I had to. I am following along with the Align instruction manual, and though I understand why it would be logical to assemble and mount all the servos (except tail servo) at the same time, it is not very practical. As the manual will come to the motor-mounting at a later stage. I would NOT advise trying to mount and set the motor WITH the rear servos mounted.
Clear view to the motor mount.
Test fitting the motor so I can adjust the height of the pinion-gear.
Top of the pinion-gear flush with main-gear.
Adjusting mesh and securing motor in place. I was not able to get a very good photo, but eye-balling the mesh at maybe 0,2-0,8mm. Turned the main gear manually to check for tight spots - there were none! The gear moves free, but not loose.
Motor wires.
Bought some thick double-sided tape. Securing ESC to front "ESC bracket".
One layer of double-sided tape.
And a second and longer strip on the mounting surface.
Secured.
"ESC bracket" installed. Also secured the ESC with a zip-tie just so its on there good and tight.
Forgot to mount servos before mounting the front bracket... D'OH!
Some time and a lot of curse-words later...
Fastening the canopy "vibration-reducing foam".
Tail servo mounting. Previously I asked if anyone knew which screw is to be used fastening the servo-horn to the servo. At this stage, I did not have a lot of screws left, so I started looking for a screw with a philips-head (I think its called a philips-head, sorry).
The manual does not say which screw is to be used (I looked through the whole thing). But it shows this picture of the servo on a later page, and that looks to me like a philips-head screw.
So I was left with two philips-heads, one silver small (this type was used on the other servos), and one larger black with self-tapping threads. The silver one I had tried before, but it's too small. So I was left with the black larger one.
I was skeptical to this being the right one, it being self-tapping, and the other servos using machined threads. So I looked through the entire manual looking for were this screw is supposed to be, but did not find it anywhere. And this being the only alternative based on what I had left of screws, I crossed my fingers and secured it in place. Turned out just fine!
Measuring and adjusting links for the pitch-slider on the tail-rotor.
Links in place.
Servo mounted.
I also previously showed a picture of this part coming pre-assembled with one screw shorter than the other. In the small pile of remaining screws I found the correct screw with the correct length
Planning and test-fitting electronics and wiring.
Secured wire form ESC to the 3GX-unit which is going to be mounted at the bottom.
Tomorrow I will continue the wiring, and hopefully get started with the 3GX settings etc.
Good night!
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Tony
Staff member
Where did you get that roll of tape? I like that stuff. Also, yours has a helical cut gear where as mine is straight cut, that's interesting. As for that foam block for the canopy, you will more than likely have to cut it in half, I know I did on mine. This thing is looking great. When I get back on my feet, you had better bet I will have another one. If not a 500 Pro hehe.
someguyinsandy
Crash Test Dummy
Nice documentation stokke! I'm not into helis, but with your pictures I could probably even build one of these! I know I have the "curse words" part down anyway!
stokke
Well-Known Member
Got the thick tape at a Norwegian store called "Biltema", but I'm pretty sure you guys don't have this in the US. It's a "Wall Mart" of sorts... About the gear; strange there are these small differences in packaging. Might be Align has been making changes, and I have gotten an early version, or late - who knows. Haven't gotten to the canopy yet, but will post my findings.
About you getting back on your feet. I have read your blog post, but not sure I get the bigger picture. I've also noted you're selling off stuff. Are you in some kind of trouble?
Thanks!
It's been my intention this thread can be of use to newbies as well as anyone who's building this heli.
I'm sure everyone in the RC-hobby is familiar with the "curse words" part
Tony
Staff member
Not to jack the thread or anything, but I wouldn't call it trouble. It's been quite hot here lately and my wife needs her AC fixed in her car. It's going to run us about $400 to fix. I was working part time and she was off work because of school and everything just fell apart at once. But, she is back working, I'm going to full time at the base and everything is looking up again. Just will take a while to get on our feet. But we will get there. Thanks for asking though. I have had a lot of support from this forum and it's members and it means a lot. And I can't stress enough that this site was never going to be closed as some people were thinking.