450 Building my first! - Align T-Rex 450 Pro V2 3GX

[stokke]

Today I finally got my first "big" heli!

I'll get into detail as much as I can about my build, and my experience with RC-helicopters. This so beginners and people who's considering to get into the hobby get educated while reading my posts.

For those who haven't read my introduction-post, I have until now only owned a fixed-pitch Nine Eagles Solo Pro 228P (micro-heli). This particular heli was chosen partly due to being clueless, and partly because I wanted something bigger than those palm-sized helis. I didn't know ANYTHING about RC-helicopters when I started out.

My first RC-helicopter:

(Yes, the canopy has been taped quite a bit).
(And yes, the heli has been crashed and repaired multiple times).

The beginning

The Solo Pro proved to be quite a challenge. Remember, I had no clue how to fly this thing (except the crash-course given by the sales-rep). I had to learn the hard way, that this small helicopter does not behave well in windy conditions, and I'm not talking about a storm, this bird demands an experienced pilot when flying even in calm wind. After some crashes I found that an optimal place for training is in a large parking-garage (IKEA's parking-garage proved to work out nicely).

After about two weeks I was able to hover quite nicely. After another two weeks I could fly all over the place, but relied on having the tale towards me. After about two months I adjusted the links so the bird got more forward speed (this affects the backing-up speed, but being able to fly forwards fast was more important). Today, about three months into my heli-carer, I do banked turns, fly at long ranges, nose-in, you name it - flying the bird is second nature (even in calm wind). I have crashed it several times, and most of the parts has been repaired or exchanged more than once.

Simulator and Radio

Not too long ago, I also started flying simulator. I use a Spektrum DX7S radio-controller with Phoenix RC-simluator. I have been flying about 1 hour a day, and it is getting easier for every time. There were some difficulties setting the simulator up, but you can read more about it here. As for now, I have set up the heli (in the simulator) to be hard to fly. By doing it this way, I expect to be best prepared to fly the real deal when the day comes.

So it begins!

So here it is, my brand new Align T-Rex 450 Pro V2 3GX, my first "big" heli:


I will be following Tony's build-videos as a reference, while following the supplied instruction-manual.
Tony's video's on the 450 3GX can be found on YouTube.

Inside the box:


The tools I have accumulated during my career:



My tools:
Various pliers.
Various small screwdrivers.
Digital pitch-gauge (bought specifically for the 450).
Measuring-tool (don't remember what its called in english at the moment ).
Glue (also called CA).
Kicker for the glue (also called activator).
Spare parts for the Solo Pro.
Hex drivers (bought specifically for the 450).
Some electrical tape.
Some bullet-connectors.
Digital measuring tool (bought specifically for the 450).
Shrink-tubes for wires (or whatever they're called).

Comparing battery sizes:

(The Solo Pro's 2S battery to the right, the 450's 3S to the left).

Well thats what I have for now.
I must dive deeper into the box!

Please advise on my crappy english, so I can go back and edit - thanks!

 

[Tony]

English is just fine man, good luck with the build, you will love it.

 

[stokke]

Starting out, the task is a bit daunting looking at the pile of parts!
But with the instructions on my right, and the laptop on my left, I cracked at it.

Bunch of stuff


The once so proud Solo Pro, fades in the shadow of the 450 size-wise! LOL


Tools. The ALIGN hex-tools really came in handy. Must say; recommended purchase.


The head was poorly screwed together. I'm guessing Align just puts together the parts in the correct placement/order, and leaves it up to the consumer to put it thoroughly together.


Thrust-bearings out. Placing everything neatly around, so I don't forget where stuff goes




I'm using regular bearing-grease. (The stuff you use for wheel-bearings on cars etc).



Assembly.


Bought some universal-oil. In Norway we just call this type of oil "sewing-machine-oil". Very thin oil.


After applying a bit of oil on the feathering-shaft, i thread-locked the blade-grips in place. (Triple-checked that everything was placed in the correct order first of course).


Thread-locked the rest of the head-parts. Head ready!


One question though: On the bottom of the head, there are these arms - as you can see on the pic above - I was only able to loosen the top-screws and apply TL. I was not able to disassemble the bottom of the arms (the screws which penetrate the lower bearings on the arm... I didn't see Tony do this either, so I'm guessing one's not supposed to take the lower arm off and apply TL? (Hopes this makes sense).

All balls taken off the swash, applied TL, then put back


Can't wait to get done with tomorrows work-day, so I can get back to the build.
But now I'll have to hit the sack.

 

[sterlingh]

Great, as a complete newbie I will be following you on this.. Min me asking where did you buy this?

Thanks

Sterling H.

 

[Tony]

If I remember correctly, there are some screws that were in that head with thread lock on them. and you are correct, I tried to back them out, they were tight but the bearings were still moving freely so I left them. Keep up the great work, you are doing great.

 

[stokke]

If I remember correctly, there are some screws that were in that head with thread lock on them. and you are correct, I tried to back them out, they were tight but the bearings were still moving freely so I left them. Keep up the great work, you are doing great.

For those who may not have fully understood what was in question:

Great, as a complete newbie I will be following you on this.. Min me asking where did you buy this?

Thanks

Sterling H.

Hey Sterling H.

Great to hear my post can be of some use

I bought the bird at Elefun in Norway.
My guess is you don't live in Norway, so you're probably better off ordering from somewhere more local.
But answer you requested, - and answer you shall have!

On a sidenote - the price equates to about 690.00 USD

 

[sterlingh]

Thanks Stokke,

Yes Norway a little further than i want to go. I am going to buy something to replace or add to I should say my e razor 450.. Nice job so far.... Cant wait to see how this bad boy comes out... Off topic, you use PS to edit your pics?

Thanks
Sterling H.

 

[stokke]

Off topic, you use PS to edit your pics?

I use Photoshop, yes.

 

[stokke]

Got my training-gear today!


Continuing...

I have noticed that my build-kit did not come with more than one small liquid-container, labeled T22.
My manual refers to the T22 as metal/metal thread-lock. Of course, I trust this to be true.
The reason for me bringing this up is because in Tony's videos his TL is labeled something else (don't remember what right now).
AND, his build also is supplied with an additional container - containing some other liquid fastener or oil (don't remember).

Another thing I have noticed: The two control-arms which connects the swash to the head has a tiny tiny bit of slack within the bearings. I did disassemble the arms (again), did a check on the bearings, then fastened the arms to the head (again), and put some good torque to those screws - but still a tiny slack in the arms. I'm continuing with the build and have regarded this as normal... (?)

Finding the correct links for the next step.
Forgot to mention in my "tool-list" that I have also a "ball-link plier".


Measuring


The ball-link plier in action.
This tool is a "must-have" for all builders i recon. (Bought mine off eBay).


Measuring again


Ball-link plier, pressing on; you guessed it, link to ball


Jezus, this tool is great!


Measuring some more...


Head, good and ready - with links attached.


Turned out that with all the links connected I was unable to insert the head-bolt and nut.
Of course I used my trusty ball-link plier to disconnect the links, then back on again! LOL


I was planning on doing some wire-work so that I'm able to fire up the servos.
But then I remembered; I don't have any charged batteries!
But THEN I remembered; I don't have any charge-cable for my new 3S Lipos!!

So I started to make some charge-cables for my charger.


What you're seeing in the above pic:
Newly acquired soldering-iron.
Some soldering-metal-string (sorry..)
3 DEANS (male)(bought 1 extra in case I messed up the soldering).
Some shrink-tubing.
The good people at Hyperion included the charge-cables. (It comes ready with bullet-connectors, but not with a DEANS )
A wire-plier-thingy (sorry...)

Put on some shrink-tubes or whatever its called in English (sorry).


Used my wire-plier-thingy to strip off some wire-isolation.
Then flattened the wire-ends to lye flat on the Deans.


Soldering finished. A professional will probably laugh at my work. But I'm pretty satisfied with it
Side-note: Good thing I had an extra Deans-plug - because I melted one on my first try.


Shrink-tube-thingy applied.


Charging!


I was going to start on the frame-build, but got distracted and started fiddling with my wiring instead...
As much as I can understand at the moment, this is how it is going to be connected.


A question at the end of course:
The 3GX-unit wants a wire for my Pitch-channel.
But I don't know which wire is for the pitch?

I'm guessing it must be on the GEAR or AUX2-channel?
I'm using a AR8000 receiver from Spektrum

Any input on this is appreciated
See you tomorrow!

 

[callsign4223]

Wire Plier thingy = Wire Strippers
Metal string stuff = solder (hence a soldering iron)
Shrink tube = heat shrink

Just to be helpful, everything was perfectly understandable, and not trying to correct at all, just thought you might like the actual names. And I think shrink tube might be just as good as heat shrink for that name. Also, just looking at those solder connections, they don't look very robust. The very first thing I learned about soldering is that soldering paste/soldering flux/soldering resin, whatever you want to call it, is a must. If you apply some paste to the connector and the wire prior to soldering them together, it will flow together and over the two pieces and make them look like they are joined solid, instead of creating a bubble that sort of encases them. It took a long time for me to become even passable at soldering, it is a finicky skill to grasp at first. To practice, I just took two ends of wire and soldered it together until it looked proper and wasn't brittle. I did this countless times until I felt comfortable soldering near expensive electronics.

 

[Tony]

There is rosin in the middle of the solder, just fyi. The slack in the swash drivers or radius arms as long as it's not excessive should be fine. The build is looking great as well. One trick on soldering the Deans plugs is to plug them together. Putting them together will help pull the heat away faster.

 

[stokke]

Wire Plier thingy = Wire Strippers
Metal string stuff = solder (hence a soldering iron)
Shrink tube = heat shrink

...Also, just looking at those solder connections, they don't look very robust. The very first thing I learned about soldering is that soldering paste/soldering flux/soldering resin, whatever you want to call it, is a must

You have my thanks for this!
Since my very first post in this thread, I have stated that I need to be "enlightened" if there are words or sentences that is not comprehensible.
I consider my English-skills decent, but may struggle with names on technical equipment/tools and technical phrases/jargon.

I recognize the fact that my soldering-skills are not perfect
Soon I will be soldering Deans to the ESC, and the bar will definitely be raised for that part.
But seeing that my last soldering-challenge included only charge-leads, I will leave it be. I did pull on the leads while clamping down on the Deans-connector - and it passed my test, LOL.

I will check out that soldering paste. I did see something which might have been exactly that lying next to the solder in the shop, guess I'll stop by the shop today and get some.
Will also be training on some wires and such before commencing on the ESC-leads.

Thanks, Matt!

- - - Updated - - -

There is rosin in the middle of the solder, just fyi. The slack in the swash drivers or radius arms as long as it's not excessive should be fine. The build is looking great as well. One trick on soldering the Deans plugs is to plug them together. Putting them together will help pull the heat away faster.

Had to check what "rosin" was, my first thought was "Rasins, wft?" LOL.
Anyways, found out what Rosin is on wiki!

The heat-trick is a nice one, Tony - thanks!
And, your continued support and "checking-in-on-me" is greatly appreciated!

Thanks, Tony!

 

[murankar]

When I started soldering my joints were good as far as connections go, but the looks of them were sloppy. I needed a clamp stand to do it right. Since I did not have one I used a rubber band wrapped around the handle of some needle nose pliers which worked for a clamp. My first deans that I soldiered was a disaster and had to replace it with a new one and did a better job the second time. I ended up replacing three battery plugs with deans and that was a slight challenge for me but managed.

The only thing I would do different it using a better soldier iron for the job. The one I have was designed for smaller electronics. When money is available I will invest in a soldier station similar to Tony's. It is a great investment along with a clamp stand.

 

[stokke]

Fiddling with the electronics.

The 3GX-unit does not show any sign of life, other than it is able to transfer power to the satellite-receiver.
The 3GX-unit is receiving power from the ESC, which is connected to a fully charged LiPO.

I am able to power up the Spektrum AR8000 alone, but at once I put the 3GX-unit in the mix, the 3GX-unit does not light up.

Please advise.

 

[coolgabsi]

It might not till its bound up to a tx. Did you bind it?

 

[Tony]

Yup, I would bind it as stated by gabster. And if you are using the AR8000, then you will want the satellite Rx plugged into the 8000, and not the 3GX.

 

[stokke]

Since I did not have one I used a rubber band wrapped around the handle of some needle nose pliers which worked for a clamp.

I used your "rubber-band plier-trick" yesterday! Worked like a charm.
I soldered a Deans-connector to my ESC.

Thanks!

 

[Tony]

The rubber band around some pliers is the only way I do it lol. I'm too cheap to purchase a third hand...

 

[stokke]

Yesterday I stayed up so late with the build, I just had postpone the update until today.
So i brought my camera along to work today, so I can update you guys on the build (when the Boss isn't watching,LOL).

Last night I had some trouble with the electronics. I'll get to that further down in this post.

Started out sanding the edges on the frame-parts.


Girlfriend not happy


Ready for assembly.


Putting on the bearing blocks.


Frame with blocks complete.


Landing-skids and frame.


Plugged in the soldering-iron again, now it's the ESC's turn! Felt it went a bit better this time, but far from perfect - as I have been studying some Youtube-vids. I realize I will need more training with soldering, but I needed to plug in the ESC, NOW! Maybe I'll remove the Deans at a later time, and try again after some training. I pulled really hard on the leads to check the connection, and they're on there, TIGHT!



Shrink-wrapped.


So last night I connected the battery, ESC, 3GX and my receiver, but could't get anything to work... So today I have brought the whole shebang to work. I read the responses from last night concerning the binding-process, tried it, did not work. So I bypassed the 3GX, connected the ESC to my receiver, bound it up to my DX7S, and it worked. Servos and everthing, good as gold!

Doing this, I was also able to answer one of my own previous questions; Which lead from the Rx is the pitch?
Well, its the AUX1-port.

So I hooked up the 3GX again, only this time I made sure to connect ALL wires (the last times I tried, I did not plug in the pitch and gyro/sens). And the 3GX woke up!!! but now the Rx did not...
So that's where I'm at at the moment.

Troubleshooting at work.


Success!!


D'OH!


Hopefully coming back with good news, later today (or night, LOL).

 

[coolgabsi]

Nice!!!


Also note... Sometimes... If you don't have a good bind ye rx lights won't turn on... Basically to show that you gotta bind again. I am not sure what you did for bind, but I would start with the 8000 abd satellite alone without 3gx and bind them to the dx8 first. If you see orange light in both ar8000 and the satellite, unplug your bond plug. Turn off battery, then turn off tx... After that make all connections, and fire it up again. This way, you sequentially get everything to work. And most of the time things work right.



Funny I am rebuilding my 450 pro too.... So many people working on 450 right now on this forum.

I am almost all the way through. I am having a problem though.... My tail boom block has been there for 6 months or so... Its loose enough to have the tail boom basically pull out with not much force at all. I am not sure (guilty is charged I havent seen Tony's videos) if tony had his tail boom pinned... I am gonna have to do it. It's too dangerous. One fast piro and tail is gonna slip right off. Also realized::: busted a servo , not just the gears but the whole servo last crash. But that happens. Lol

Have fun building and troubleshooting.