450 A New Sport

sterlingh

Member
My bad. Did not use correct terminology.. the bearings in the tail rotor holder.. However I got the answer.. Thanks

Also, looking at my work this morning that I did last night and yesterday, I realized I made a couple of dumb mistakes. I had my canopy bolts to the front of the helicopter instead of the rear. I also have a couple of incorrect screws in place. Because I have fear I will have to take a whole bunch of stuff apart possibly realizing somewhere I missed something, I decided to put the frame set together, then and only then, when I'm convinced it's correct, I will pull out each screw and Loctite. I know I know! But for me it's the only way. Plus, I am going to slow up a lot. I am enjoying putting this together and scratching my head why I'm trying to hurry. I want to thank everyone again for the comments and encouragement..Of course if you see anything wrong in the pic's let me have it.


Something else if I may ask. Instruction manual is not really telling me where to locate the motor pinion on the motor shaft. Can anyone lend a little on that. Its looks like it will not be easy to get to after while.


Overheadview.jpgSideviewmainframe.jpg

Overheadview.jpg

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murankar

Staff member
You will thread lock the grub screw that hold the pinion in place. Since you have time after applying the thread lock, I would thread lock the grub screw set get it started in the pinion gear. Then get the pinion gear positioned on the pinion so it lines up with any notches on the pinion. If this is done right to this point it should have a tiny amount of play but wont come off. then line the pinion gear with the main gear so you have both the top of the main gear and pinion gear flush with each other, have the pinion gear just a tad higher. once set tighten down. I would use your hex driver (once in the grub screw) to help align it with the main gear.

I know some of the newer shafts that Align has use a hole in the shaft for the grub screw, the older versions used a groove. Just make sure the grub screw is catching so you know it is aligned on the shaft correctly.
 

sterlingh

Member
Thanks Matthias, I think I am reading you right. I guess I will wait for this until I install my main gear. If that is correct. I did not know so I guess I can wait until then. I booked mark your comment and will look at it again later. Now I am installing the tail assembly.

- - - Updated - - -

Here are a few more shots. Like I posted earlier, I have not used lock thread on anything yet. I have not had the confidence to think I would not have to take it apart again. Turns out that was somewhat correct. In order to install the tail boom I had to unscrew the tail boom mount. No big deal, but I am wondering now at this point if I can lock tight my screws? It may be difficult for anyone to tell because it's hard getting information online about this particular bird. In any case I'm going to go ahead and Lock thread everything. I have a question about that. Do I put lock thread one the motor screws? The screws that go through the motor mount into the motor. Feel free to comment on what you think it looks like now.

Overheadshot.jpgTailboom.jpgWithtail.jpg

Overheadshot.jpg

Tailboom.jpg

Withtail.jpg
 

murankar

Staff member
Yes all metal to metal contact must be thread locked. Just know that a little goes a long way. Just a small drop and lightly spin the screw on your finger tip. You should see a light coating when your done. There should not be a bubble of thread lock at the end of the screw. One thing I did on my motor was I gave a little more torque on the screws. I know the metal on the motor can handle it plus the screw heads are 2.5 mill also the screw shaft does not fit as loose in the motor mount. I wanted to ensure the motor will not come loose while in flight. That has happened twice on me already with my old motor; has yet to happen on the new motor.

good luck and continue to enjoy the build.

Oh your sport should go together much like the pro except for the servo mounting and linkage lengths.
 

sterlingh

Member
Thanks Matthias,

When I completed using thread lock on the tail assembly, my tail rotor holder was binding. It was the exact same problem Marius S. had. He had gotten thread lock in their causing the bind. I could not get the screw out of the spacer it was that bad. I was not soaking my screws so I was a little surprised it was that bad. In any case I wanted to go to LHS anyway so I went looking for a spacer and a screw that would work. I talked with an employee (claim to be part owner of hobby shops) and he said he had a helicopter just like mine. Anyway, we did find a little brass spacer, and a screw to fit. When I got back to the house, I installed it and the bind was gone completely. One thing disturbing I did notice. If I tightened the screw with a good tight, it completely binds. It's possible that sounds worse than it is? All I have to do is back it up an eight of turn, or thereabouts, and it's fine. However I don't understand why it does that. The screw seems to be the same. The spacer is the exact same diameter only slight difference (see picture) is there is a small little bevel around one side. I don't think it's a problem but would like some input.

One other question I would embarrassingly ask. When putting the belt around the tail gear how can I make sure I did not reverse the belt and cause it to rotate in the wrong direction. Hope that makes sense. I sure you know, that if you take hold of the belt that's going into the tail boom and turn it 160* then spin the belt as if it were on the gear, it will cause the tail rotor holders to go in opposite direction. Hopefully that makes sense. New-spacer1.jpgOrigspacer1.jpg

Thanks

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Lee

Well-Known Member
I always dry assemble everything first, to align everything, and make sure everything fits as its suppose to. Then thread lock it once i'm happy. Looks good sofar Sterling.
 

Tony

Staff member
The pinion gear will sit flush with the motor shaft more than likely. But, install the main gear and shim up the head first before you thread lock the grub screw. As for the belt, after you have it through the boom, and you know it's straight, while you are looking at it from the front, you will rotate 90º clockwise. That will give you the correct rotation. Keep it up, it's coming along nicely.
 

sterlingh

Member
Ok, Lee, and Tony,
feel much better about this now with your words. Ok on the pinion, sounds good to me. Great on the belt, got it!

Man thanks again for the help and saying its coming along. Means a lot being from you two. Of course means a lot form everybody that comments on it but.... you know what I mean....
 

Tony

Staff member
Hey, building your first helicopter is challenging to say the least. That is why we are here.

On that tail spacer, make sure to remove not only the screw, but also the sleeve and make sure the screw will rotate freely in that sleeve. If you have to, you can sand down the plastic just slightly so it's narrower than the spacer, this will allow you to lock it down and it will still spin in the plastic. The spacer is more of a bushing, so there will be some resistance, but it shouldn't lock it down to where the tail won't move.
 

sterlingh

Member
yea I see, very good, will do, thanks Tony, .. Yes 1st build is challenging, and rewarding in many ways as well. At least so far. Thanks
 

murankar

Staff member
That's basically my charger with different labeling. It does a great job as long as it is one battery at a time. You can take it to the field and charge off 12v power if you want.
 

Tony

Staff member
I still use that charger to this day and it's working great. The 50w limit is a pain if you get into 4s or bigger, but it's great for 3s batteries.
 

sterlingh

Member
Thank you gentlemen sounds good to me. I was looking for some dean connectors, or ec3 connectors on the same website for free shipping, can you believe they don't have dean's or ec3's. Oh well guess it's back to the LHS, lol fastly becoming one of my favorite places. Got a $5.95 .3.7 gram servo (for my e razor 450) to take it over the free shipping mark. can't wait to burn that one up!

The power of recommendation. I got the ball pliers, and a whole toolkit as mentioned earlier in some thread. LHS is where the purchase was made. Looked good, and so far have performed well, but the grips on them keep coming off, even though I glued them with guerrilla once already. I just took it that it would be okay, most of time is the way we have to make purchases. However, when you're wondering if some product is any good or not, nothing like being able to ask someone you know who has the same product. Almost priceless. Good to know about the charger, sounds solid. Will order today.

Will need to solder up some new connections. Two batteries through different connectors, nothing I have matches actually. Think I'll go with either dean's or ec 3's.

Thanks again
 

Lee

Well-Known Member
3.7gram servo is too small for the 450. 9g is the smallest you can use. What is the torque on that servo?
 

murankar

Staff member
I ordered some deans from amainhobbies and some other obscure site. My tool kit I got from xheli/hobbypatz, it's the 24 piece exi kit with pitch gauge, ball link pliers, ball link sizer and ball link wrench. It has all the hex heads you need and two nut drivers all for $24 i think. I got mine on sale during Christmas time. All the hex heads are good except the 1.5mm ones. I rounded the corners in no time and the replaced them with a set of Turnigy and those seem to take a better beating. Good luck!
 

sterlingh

Member
Hey Lee, man thats a good catch. I made a mistake in the cart and clicked the 3
.7 g, thank you as I have not ordered yet and thats a great save... I most likely would not have caught that. I will change it before I buy..

Matthias, you did much better than I did. I bought the silver looking case with needle nose, ball pliers, and Dykes, I did get a pitch gauge, and two other tools I'm unfamiliar with. Plus I got hex heads,etc. see pic.. maybe someone will tell me what the two tools are that I dont recognize. I think might be a swash level?

Tool sewpricet.jpgToolset closed.jpgwhat are these.jpg

Tool sewpricet.jpg

Toolset closed.jpg

what are these.jpg
 

murankar

Staff member
Thats the kit I got but mine is blue. The two tools are the left one a ball link sizer and the right is the ball link wrench.

If a ball link is binding just snap it on the sizer spin in 1 or 2 times and check the fit.

The other is for twisting your ball links on the linkage rods.
 

sterlingh

Member
Matthias, thats good to know and sounds like it will come in handy.. So you got the same kit for 24.00? was that bottom cost or was there shipping in that? No biggie, just wondering how much more it is to by from the LHS..
 
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