450 A New Sport

callsign4223

Staff member
I think that piece of paper with the picture is meant to catch spills and be used as a rag. No real man needs to read what it says. :)

I on the other hand would spend hours studying it like the very word of God.
 

sterlingh

Member
Thanks guys. Already started couldn't stop me self. Now for the grease argument. I know I read somewhere in this forum for the best to use. Guess I need to go to LHS. This will be for the thrust bearing in the metal main rotor holder. They sent with order some t22.

Thanks again

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looks like this part has been installed already. The thrust bearing that needs grease and the feathering shaft needs i as well. Does this mean they greased this or do I need to take apart and do? see pic?Rotorhead.jpg

Rotorhead.jpg
 

sterlingh

Member
Sorry gentlemen I will calm down here in a bit. This is very exciting and I'm trying to get oriented. I find this box of parts intimidating but pleasantly challenging at the same time. So I have found last week what I think is the only video online for my helicopter for assembling . That video starts off with the rotorhead the shaft all being put together. That is not what I got. However my last question about the feathery shaft is probably accurate as it is in the instruction manual, and already installed. The picture I posted is the way I pulled it out of the plastic bag. My question is will I need to grease, and should I pulle the screws out and Loctite? I think the answer to Loctite is going to be yes but the grease I don't know. Anyway any help as usual is greatly appreciated.
 

stokke

Well-Known Member
I would recommend you read the instruction manual as you build.
I also recommend you follow along with the instruction manual, this way you can be sure no steps are left out.
Use the video as a reference only, use the instructions as the if it were The Holy Bible itself!

As for the head which is pre-assembled, you should take it apart, grease up the bearings, and apply thread lock to the screws which hold the blade-grips to the feathering-shaft. You should also add some oil to the feathering-shaft as you put it back in the head.

You'll have to disassemble all pre-assembled parts, and check them. The instructions state you should do so, and you should.
Good luck.
 

sterlingh

Member
Yes Marius you're right. I think I'm just looking around, checking out all the parts. I know you guys are right about the manual. So I am just going to look at it the rest of this day. Play around a little bit. Tomorrow I'm going to get grease, and some more Loctite. Blue on the Loctite right? On the grease any recommendation? After I get back from the LHS tomorrow maybe I'll start the actual build. My TX should be in by then as well. Thanks for the help.
 

stokke

Well-Known Member
I used regular bearing grease on mine. I would also like to note that grease is to be used only inside bearings, not as a lubricant. At least this is my personal opinion. I used sewing machine oil on the shaft and rudder slider-shaft. Actually, when thinking twice, I used grease ONLY on the bearings in the head.

There should be a small plastic bottle supplied with your packaging. You should look to the manual to see what it is labeled.
 

sterlingh

Member
yes i have little bit of T22 I thinks its loctight.. I am looking at your build again. Our birds being different dont matter that much.
 

murankar

Staff member
Normally Align will send you bearing oil. The grease you have to provide and the type I don't think it really matters as long as it is safe for rubbers and plastics. I have 2 types of grease one is white lithium grease made by Permatex and Super Lube Synthetic grease (Amazon.com).

Hope this helps
 

sterlingh

Member
Thanks Matthias, the only thing Align sent with this bird is the t22.. Got no bearing oil, or any grease. Only the one type of loctitie and thats the t22. I think I misread while ago. I was thinking the r48 was a glue of some type, but its a grease I see. So tomorrow I will get some auto grease I guess, and some lite oil, and I already have the t 22....If anyone knows I am missing something let me know. Tonight I read and tomorrow after some other biz I will get grease and oil and start on this bad boy. Should get me DX6I tomorrow.

Thanks
 

Tony

Staff member
Some places are calling for r48 but I only got t22, Whats the equivalent?

The blue one is the thread lock, and yes, when you get more, get the blue, not red. The R48 is green thread lock and it's designed to hold bearings into holders or other tight tolerance fitting places. I didn't have to use it on mine although it did come with it. and for grease, I used regular bearing grease on the thrust bearings only and make sure the cupped side is towards the head and not the grips. And as stated above just use thin oil for all other places that need oil.

Good luck, it will be a fun build for sure. Hope to join you in the air here shortly.
 

sterlingh

Member
Thanks Tony. Apparently the sport comes a tad different with their thread lock. I got t22 only and its red. I have seen only a call for t22 and r 48 in the manual. Seems strange to me, as that should make no difference between the 2 birds, how to thread lock that is.. Oh well will have to think about this one. I am watching your video and knew from that about the cup side of the thrust bearing(s) facing the head. Yes fun is de word.....
 

Tony

Staff member
I would not use red, you will never get them apart lol. Just head to the local hardware store and get a bottle of the good stuff.
 

stokke

Well-Known Member
Thanks Tony. Apparently the sport comes a tad different with their thread lock. I got t22 only and its red. I have seen only a call for t22 and r 48 in the manual. Seems strange to me, as that should make no difference between the 2 birds, how to thread lock that is.. Oh well will have to think about this one.

Please heed my words, Sterling. If the instructions state that a bottle labeled "T22" in fact is thread lock, then it is. In my build thread, I also bring up the small differences in packaging and instructions.

For example:

In Tony's videos, he's thread lock is labeled something entirely different, and has a different color, than the thread lock which was supplied with my build.
MY instructions stated that the bottle supplied with MY build was in fact RED, and labeled "T22".

When it comes to identifying supplied liquids/adhesives, read and trust the instruction manual.
I would also like to note my build came with only one bottle, namely "T22".
 

murankar

Staff member
The only thing I know is that medium thread lock is blue and strong is red. This stuff is rather inexpensive in the whole scheme of things. I would just buy some blue (medium) thread lock and not take a chance on a screw up. I for one would not want to find out that I could not take apart my heli for repairs or maintenance.
 

sterlingh

Member
Marius S, I will have to go with Tony and Matthias on this one. The reason for me is simple. Even before I got into this hobby I knew that locktite (lock thread as said on this forum) came in strengths, and that blue is a medium or that is to say red is stronger than blue. Its well established that blue is the lock thread to use on a lot of screws on the heli's we build. Now if I use blue and find that for some reason the Chinese wanted us to use red, I can always redo if need be.If however I use red and find I made a mistake that may be a problem. Great input on all this...

Thanks
 

stokke

Well-Known Member
This is my final post on the thread lock matter.
I would like to state that I recpectfully bow down in the dirt before the more seasoned builders which is posting!
AND, that I did not know about the blue and red difference.

BUT, one would think the guys over at Align would know which TL to apply on their helicopters? And that they would supply this with their kits?
 

sterlingh

Member
Marius S, you always impress me in a good way. I am NOT one of the "seasoned builders" you refer to, but I bet you impress them as well. On the Align knowing what TL to use on their heli's I tend to agree. In this life we always have to remain mindful of the errors and or mis-information.

On another note I received yet another package. And this package was the DX6I, too free receivers, and a new battery. Life's other matters has kept me away from my hobby ( I really hate that ) so I've not been able to do any build today. I did however manage to get to Home Depot, and Lowe's. Home Depot did not have a digital caliper. But Lowe's did. They had a 3 inch and a six-inch. I thought for measuring a main shaft rod, or the distance between fly bar paddles to center on the fly bar might be cutting it kind of close with the 3 inch. So I spent 10 more dollars and go the six-inch. $30.00 total which I thought was a little high.

I also got a tube of blue TL,and some multipurpose EP grease. Also got some 3 n 1 oil. So I am finally ready to get to work now. But before I start I got to read on my TX. I was under the impression, hopefully not mistakenly, that I will be able to use my DX6I for my sim (clearview).if not no biggie, I will keep using the same one. But I want to read up in the manual on my new TX.I did receive my two free receivers as well, I like the fact that Tony pointed that deal out to me. I can use one of those on my E-razor 450?Posting 2 thumbnails of the box and the DX6I.Boxdx6I.jpgDx6I OPENED.jpg

Boxdx6I.jpg

Dx6I OPENED.jpg
 
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