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Hi John, Helis are hard and the heli you have will be several years old so wont have any of the 'mod cons' available today that can make them easier. Being a competent fixed wing flyer, especially if you are half decent at 3D aerobatics does help, but it will be still hard. The tricky thing...

Whenever i build a new heli i always do a last check of gyro response directions and control response directions immediately before the maiden flight. It's saved me a couple of times. I think sometimes when you are building you are tired by the time you get to the final setup stages and you can...

Yes, you just turn the head and check the lugs on the swash individually. If nothing else it's a quick way to do a course check if you suspect a problem and dont want to go to the trouble of removing the head. In fact I think it's probably just as accurate as a 'proper' swash leveller, possibly...

Looks good Phil. As you say, trims on the Tx is a big no-no on any flybarless heli. I disable trims on all my heli setups. The swash looked a fair bit out, was it checked for level during the build? I'm often too lazy to remove the head to fit a swash leveler, so I use the 'ghetto' zip-tie...

The other thing that catches a lot of people out on the Goblins is the spacer in the bottom front of the tail boom, where the lower frame mounting screws attach. The spacer is adjustable for length but it's critical that once adjusted for a snug fit in the boom you use CA (or you red Loctite the...

Yes, this is a very common thing on the Goblins. Due to the swash servo layout the body of the servo is very tight to the main shaft case. I've had to do the exact same thing as you on both of my Goblins, i just bought an extra pack of those little carbon plates. The instructions should have a...

The flybar should flop from side to side without any resistance at all. The blades must also be free to pivot in their grips. If there is any stiffness you just need to figure what part is causing it and correct it, It could be the pivot pin that the flybar or blade hub swivels on or it could...

The fly bar (the bar on top with the weights at the end) must be free to move with virtually no friction. It should be really difficult to get it to sit level like you have in the photo because it should always be ready to flop to one side or the other. If there is any stiffness in the linkages...

That's some beefy landing gear you have there Phil... Should do the job nicely!

Looks like he flew around the far side of the tower by FPV, and his Tx signal was shadowed by the tower. The drone goes into 'return to home' and of course attempts to take the most direct path back to 'home' not knowing there is a tower in the way. I've seen videos of exactly the same thing...

Dave, It sounds like you have been taking it very methodically, you might be ok going it alone. It's certainly possible to lean 'solo' but usually it's a lot less painful with some help, more fun too if you have someone to share it with.

Hi Dave, I'm in the UK too, but way 'up north'. Sounds like you have given some thought to your purchases, you should be well set. The best single bit of advice I can give you is to find a club or an experienced flying buddy to at least help you over the setup of the heli and the initial...

Fake iMax B6 chargers are extremely common, the majority of thoise sold on ebay are fake. Check this video: IMAX B6 charger - fake Vs genuine - Visual comparison - YouTube The one on the listing appears to be a fake as it's got no 'SkyRc' logo. Other than that, even the genuine B6 is only...

N4RF, As Tony says, you would need an ESC capable of 4S operation. The standard ESC I wouldn't be happy with on 4S because it has a linear mode BEC which struggle on anything more than 3S. Other than the ESC you should be ok if you fit a slightly smaller prop to keep the amps down. The standard...

I picked up this motor from a guy who was selling it as 'spares or repair'. It's a pretty high end motor but his heli had a vibration problem which he blamed on motor balance, plus it had of the paint on the can worn off where something had been rubbing. I got it for $34 which is nothing when...

Eggy, The timers have a 'mode' setting. if you adjust the mode setting for timer 2 to 'inhibit' then that timer is turned off.

The good news is that once you have set up the basic 'bones' of a heli setup with all the switches where you want them and working as intended you can save that setup as a template for any future helis. So next time it will be MUCH easier. All you then have to do in the Tx for a new heli is...

When you created a new model in the transmitter did you set 'model type' to helicopter?

A standard 3 axis FBL has no way of detecting if the heli is level or not. A gyro only detects angular acceleration (i.e. rotation of the heli), so as long as the heli is kept still it will initiate regardless of the helis orientation. A standard FBL is simply an electronic version of a flybar...

It will work fine. The gyro doesn't have to be level, in fact on a standard 3 axis gyro FBL you could lay the heli on it's side or up side down and it would still initiate normally.