Quad RCX250 Mini quad Build thread

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bluemeane

New Member
Lee said:
I don't remember what my PIDs were, as I'm using Nase32 at the moment.
But a good base line is the ZMR 250 preset config in the vehicle set up wizard.
Click to expand...

I will try to reset it back to defaults and then try again and see if it helps, but it always seemed to have a fast wobble when I selected the middle(I think) ZMR defaults.

If I was going to create three banks to play with how would you suggest? Three with just P changed? Or just I? Or a mix of both?
 
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bluemeane

New Member
I got it figured out!!!!

It was user error. I wasn't aware my esc's were fast so set them up as 50hz and used the third pin. I then set it up as a fast esc and used pin 8."

Smooth as hell now!!!

Thanks for all your help!!!
 
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bluemeane

New Member
claytonbakerjr said:
Are you using a PPM receiver? Sorry if I missed it earlier.
Click to expand...

Yup. I am using the Orange 615 PPM Spektrum rx. I love these things (Not sure why Spektum doesn't make a PPM Rx themselves yet...)

And I thought I had the slower esc's and so I picked that option in the set up and it had me use the third cable from the FC, but I have the fast ones and so I need to use the last one (eighth one) for the PPM signal and that fixed everything!!
 
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claytonbakerjr

Member
Yea I am using the Lemon 7 channel with PPM.
Glad to hear it works out well on the CC3D.
I've been questioning it and found several items on
the OP forums giving positive results.
 
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bluemeane

New Member
claytonbakerjr said:
Yea I am using the Lemon 7 channel with PPM.
Glad to hear it works out well on the CC3D.
I've been questioning it and found several items on
the OP forums giving positive results.
Click to expand...

Fort he $12 or whatever it costs I LOVE it!

I Only with they would make a smaller *ONLY* CPPM version that only has like 2 or 3 sets of pins so it doesn't have to be a giant beast of a RX. lol
 
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claytonbakerjr

Member
Yea same on the one I have. Signal pins and bind pins.
I re-read this, you have a Orange TX.
I'm at least glad to see the PPM functionality works.
I have the Lemon...
Dag gone fruits....LOL
 
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epij

New Member
1st post :)

from the moment i upgraded the cc3d firmware i had trouble with oscillations and wobbling. i also noticed that the ESCs dont beep in a clean sequence anymore at powerup, there is a longer gap between the 3rd and 4th beep. i calibrated the ESCs but that did not solve the wobble.

i reduced the PIDs so low and activated TPS because i still had oscillations on high thrust jumps, but the vehicle got sluggish and my frustration bigger.

i then changed the receiver to a FrSky D8R-XP and use the 8pin PPM protocol and my ESCs set to PPMsync:
SMOOTH AS HELL!!! not a single wobble anymore even with very high pid rates (like double the default).

also the ESC beep in a clean sequence at startup again, so,my guess is that the cc3d firmware upgrade :):):):)s up your esc settings. its shown as 50hz pwm, but since my formware did not match my gcs version i doubt the 50hz pwm was the default, because the stock (myrcmart) firmware runs just fine, its just out of date for newer openpilot versions.
 
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epij

New Member
claytonbakerjr said:
Are you also aware that they just release a new version of gcs? It came out like on Tuesday I think
Click to expand...

wasnt aware, but will check it out, thanks.

btw if you dump your fw+settings as a .bin file you can always flash back your old stable settings. but i guess you already know :)
 
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claytonbakerjr

Member
epij said:
1st post :)

from the moment i upgraded the cc3d firmware i had trouble with oscillations and wobbling. i also noticed that the ESCs dont beep in a clean sequence anymore at powerup, there is a longer gap between the 3rd and 4th beep. i calibrated the ESCs but that did not solve the wobble.

i reduced the PIDs so low and activated TPS because i still had oscillations on high thrust jumps, but the vehicle got sluggish and my frustration bigger.

i then changed the receiver to a FrSky D8R-XP and use the 8pin PPM protocol and my ESCs set to PPMsync:
SMOOTH AS HELL!!! not a single wobble anymore even with very high pid rates (like double the default).

also the ESC beep in a clean sequence at startup again, so,my guess is that the cc3d firmware upgrade :):):):)s up your esc settings. its shown as 50hz pwm, but since my formware did not match my gcs version i doubt the 50hz pwm was the default, because the stock (myrcmart) firmware runs just fine, its just out of date for newer openpilot versions.
Click to expand...
Interesting. I too have problems using PPM on the CC3D but PWM works like a champ. When using Wizard and setting esc's to ppm and OneShot I get similar problems. Takes long time to sync esc's and one or more motors stop running.
I've not had a chance to go back to the PPM receiver but now you have me thinking.
 
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epij

New Member
does anyone know if the default escs support oneshot125 or could be flashed to BLHeli? i am about to flash Cleanflight over my CC3D and would like to use oneshot (and active breaking)
 
Lee

Lee

Well-Known Member
The DT version is a newer model.
The frames are identical in size and shape.
Only the internal cutouts are different.

I have both. The DT is easier for routing the wiring.
 
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Shilelis

New Member
Hello. So I ordered the DT version KIT(only frame) and I took RCX H250CF PCB Upgrade. I didn't found any information about how should I solder it. The parts will arrive only in 2-4 weeks but I want to be clear how should the wires be soldered. Maybe someone has this PCB and can show some setup photos or explain it? :) Another question, does any other PCB fits in this frame? Like ZMR 250 PCB can fit in this DT version quad?
 
Lee

Lee

Well-Known Member
The pictures on the shops website give a decent view of whats what.
And the solder pads are marked with what goes where too.
 
Tasajara

Tasajara

Active Member
Myself I never use a Distribution board just added weight I don't need. I just do a direct solder of all my power leads no mater the size of the Multirotor.
If it is built into the frame as My MXP 230 then it works great.
As on my Tarot 960 Hex I just gather all the power leads together and solder, just place a main wire lead in the middle of the gathered wires.

08- Tarot T960.JPG

12- Tarot T960.JPG

08- Tarot T960.JPG

12- Tarot T960.JPG
 
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byee

New Member
Tasajara said:
Myself I never use a Distribution board just added weight I don't need. I just do a direct solder of all my power leads no mater the size of the Multirotor.
If it is built into the frame as My MXP 230 then it works great.
As on my Tarot 960 Hex I just gather all the power leads together and solder, just place a main wire lead in the middle of the gathered wires.

View attachment 14700

View attachment 14701
Click to expand...

Judging the solder joints, this is not your first time soldering!

Great job with the heat shrink as well,
 
Lee

Lee

Well-Known Member
Judging by how much wire you need to use.
I would think, that all the extra, you have to solder on, would weigh far more than using a PDB?
 
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