600 HK 550 GT
- Thread starter Topgun73
- Start date
Tony
Staff member
I will try to help, but may confuse you more. I hope not, but here we go.
With the older gyro's (like the Futaba 401 which I 'think' you are using now), you HAD to put positive pitch in the blades in order for it to hold properly. The way you do this is you get the helicopter flying and you hover it in the mode you are going to fly in (normal, iu1, iu2 or whatever). Set your Tx so that your gyro is in RATE mode with about 30% gain and get it to where, when in a hover, the tail does not move. You do this by adjusting the linkage rod to keep the tail from moving. This can take a few batteries to get perfect. But once you have it, then you set the gyro to Heading Hold and your tail should hold quite well as long as you have a fast enough tail servo.
On the newer gyros though, however, you can set your tail to have 0º pitch on the blades and the gyro is sensitive enough to compensate on its own. This is how I do ALL of my helicopters, but I'm running the AR7200BX and the IKON on my FBL gyros (high end gyros) and I'm using the Align GP780 on my flybar helicopter. All of those gyros will compensate for any tail movement so that you don't have to go through the above to get teh tail to hold.
One thing to remember is the Futaba 401 gyro is a piezoelectric gyro. ANY shift in temp will cause drift since it has a crystal that vibrates at different frequencies depending on temp. You MUST acclimate the gyro to your flying condition if you want it to hold. So if you are going to fly in the sun, then set the helicopter out in the sun for about 15 minutes to acclimate. If on a cloudy day, set it out by the flying site for 15 minutes to acclimate, and so on.
I hope this helps.
With the older gyro's (like the Futaba 401 which I 'think' you are using now), you HAD to put positive pitch in the blades in order for it to hold properly. The way you do this is you get the helicopter flying and you hover it in the mode you are going to fly in (normal, iu1, iu2 or whatever). Set your Tx so that your gyro is in RATE mode with about 30% gain and get it to where, when in a hover, the tail does not move. You do this by adjusting the linkage rod to keep the tail from moving. This can take a few batteries to get perfect. But once you have it, then you set the gyro to Heading Hold and your tail should hold quite well as long as you have a fast enough tail servo.
On the newer gyros though, however, you can set your tail to have 0º pitch on the blades and the gyro is sensitive enough to compensate on its own. This is how I do ALL of my helicopters, but I'm running the AR7200BX and the IKON on my FBL gyros (high end gyros) and I'm using the Align GP780 on my flybar helicopter. All of those gyros will compensate for any tail movement so that you don't have to go through the above to get teh tail to hold.
One thing to remember is the Futaba 401 gyro is a piezoelectric gyro. ANY shift in temp will cause drift since it has a crystal that vibrates at different frequencies depending on temp. You MUST acclimate the gyro to your flying condition if you want it to hold. So if you are going to fly in the sun, then set the helicopter out in the sun for about 15 minutes to acclimate. If on a cloudy day, set it out by the flying site for 15 minutes to acclimate, and so on.
I hope this helps.
I think I get that Tony, so how it's currently set is about right. On the gyro I've set the gain to zero as digital servo put + pitch in the tail to allow for torque. I've watched Lees video in general chat so servo going correct way and gyro also as per his video. Everything there I understand. If I don't get on with this gyro I'll look at getting a memes gyro and then I'm guessing I'll have to put the blades parallel and let the gyro do the calculations.
In my radio I have set up the gyrosense for Rate and HH and then when I get to field and waited for acclimated gyro temp then do my first hover to check for drift or hunting and then reduce the gain to allow for steady tail.
In my radio I have set up the gyrosense for Rate and HH and then when I get to field and waited for acclimated gyro temp then do my first hover to check for drift or hunting and then reduce the gain to allow for steady tail.
I'm having another nightmare, I started to re do the head set up and messed it up, I watched Tony's video over and over again. I'm keen to fly but want to make sure it's as perfect as it can be. At this rate the weather will be so crap I won't get to fly her. On the bright side other than the head she's ready. I think I'm just going to leave it for now. maybe tired and over thinking things.
Quick question Tony, In your video COMPLETE FLY BAR SET UP on Youtube, When you level the swash you only set it at mid stick? Is it imperative to check that the swash is level at + & - pitch also?. I'm going to re do my swash set up again as really not happy with it as I wasn't getting your recommended 10 degrees either way. I thought this bird was ready for maiden but I want to make sure im giving myself the best chance of having a good maiden. Thank you in advance for all of your help thus far.
OK I've done it and I'm happy with the pitch settings I have the following : Blade 1 0.01, blade 2 0.00 at mid stick. Blade 1 + 10.1, - 09.9 Blade 2 +10.0 - 9.97. Now I just need to know which link to adjust the aileron or shall I just leave it? I'm about 1.5 degrees difference in either direction ( I have leveled the swash )
D.O.G.
Goblin 380 Supporter
Hey Topgun73. It's looking real good their. It's just me but I think 1.5 degrees difference in any direction is too much. Someone else will have more information on that. I'm just looking at your pic. and realizing why I like FBL units instead. I forgot how many linkages you have to adjust on a FB unit.
D.O.G.
Goblin 380 Supporter
Well if you can save up some money and purchases FBL set up. It will save you on the headaches in the long run. Either way you did nice job on it. I hope your flight goes well and don't forget. "
"
trainrider06
Active Member
Those top uppermost links should get you evened out on your pitch. Looks like you Have those arms below pretty level. The thing about the FB head is you level from the bottom up. Swash then control links and then those pitch links up top.
Probably you'll have to adjust those top pitch links anyway because your probably going to have uneven blade tracking that you'll see on hoover.... You'll need to take the lowest reading blade and I think extend the link to get em to even out...
Probably you'll have to adjust those top pitch links anyway because your probably going to have uneven blade tracking that you'll see on hoover.... You'll need to take the lowest reading blade and I think extend the link to get em to even out...
Right news from the work shop,,,,,, she's ready I cannot adjust this anymore. Blade 1 0.01 Blade 2 0.00 @zero pitch, I have 10 + and 9.7 - pitch aileron 6.3 L 6.5 R.
Is there a way to measure pitch on the tail? and if so how do I do that and what would be the best to start with?
Is there a way to measure pitch on the tail? and if so how do I do that and what would be the best to start with?
trainrider06
Active Member
You'd throw off center of swash then.