500 Building the Gaui NX4

Westy

LEGEND
NICE!!!!! I could hear the excitement in the voice of the camera person! LOL.

Oh and something I learned from Freddy can fly about pre firing up your heli ...... Well better I post the link... will help you start first pop when you are actually ready to fire her up!


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So ... how does she handle? is she a nice ride?
 
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Tony

Staff member
I have to agree with the others, it sounded way too raspy for the first flight. And it may just be the 30 size over the 50 or 90, but you should have the amount of smoke when you were flying at an idle. And when you start to raise the throttle, it should start to choke out and want to die. This is why you will see pilots feather the throttle as they are raising the head speed. It's to keep it from dying during the transition from low to mid needle.

As stated, did you check your head or backplate temp? The backplate should be somewhere around 80c and the head where it meets the block should be no higher than 100c.

Either way, looks like a great flying bird you got there. I'm hoping the 600 flies as good! Great flight.
 

stokke

Well-Known Member
It's set up with two turns out like the instructions recommend for breaking in. Also, the helicopter was soaked in fuel when I landed! But if you guys think it looks and sounds wrong, I'll turn it out a few clicks more! Thank you everybody :D
 

Tony

Staff member
didn't you get a temp gun? I thought I seen one in one of your pictures. If so, I would tune it with that and not by the smoke or sound. Everyones flying style is different, some are on the high end a LOT (high load) and some are around the mid range mostly (normal flying).
 

stokke

Well-Known Member
didn't you get a temp gun? I thought I seen one in one of your pictures. If so, I would tune it with that and not by the smoke or sound. Everyones flying style is different, some are on the high end a LOT (high load) and some are around the mid range mostly (normal flying).

Since I'm still waiting on your tuning video (hint hint), I'm "tuning in the dark" so to speak LOL.

What temp should I try to achieve?

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Sorry, I saw you wrote it further up! I'll borrow a temp gun from my father in law.
 

Tony

Staff member
Make sure to get the temp from where the head meats the block. That is the hottest part of the engine. The backplate isn't as accurate.
 

wolfman76

Well-Known Member
Great flying Marius mani am loving that heli more and more now... I might have to think about selling all my other helis to get one... Something to think on...
 

stokke

Well-Known Member
Great first flight Marius! I still think you may be a hair lean. Did you check you head temp?

Thanks Sam :D Gonna check the temp today!

great job on the maiden!

Thanks buddy :D

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So ... how does she handle? is she a nice ride?

I think I'm loving the Ikon. The few minutes I got to fly felt pretty darn good ;)

Great flying Marius mani am loving that heli more and more now... I might have to think about selling all my other helis to get one... Something to think on...

Thanks :D I have to say I hate the links and balls on this thing - they suck. Other than that the heli looks to be of good quality - not as good as SAB or JR, but maybe the same as Align.
 

Westy

LEGEND
Are the Ball Joints Brittle or something? - thanks for getting back to me on the Goblin build also! :)
 

stokke

Well-Known Member
Are the Ball Joints Brittle or something? - thanks for getting back to me on the Goblin build also! :)

Yeah, they're brittle. One just broke when I snapped it on with my ball link plier - I'm used to links being durable, not having to "take care" when snapping on/off.

__

I borrowed a temp gun today, but turned out it sucked LOL :D It read 40°C when I pointed it at the motor, and 20°C when I pointed it on the muffler (which burned my fingers when I tried to touch it). But she's churning out smoke like a chimney, so I'm thinking it's alright... I'll try to borrow another temp gun.

I also got some oscillation when in low head speed which I've got to get rid of. Guessing a gain issue or poor placement of the gyro.
 

Westy

LEGEND
some guys I heard ... go off the 2-3 sec rule .... if you cannot hold your finger on the motor for 2-3 secs ... it is 2 hot ...... just one method I heard of!
 

Tony

Staff member
Westy, that is more for electric motors than nitro. Electric doesn't like to be above 160ºF and these engines like to be run at about 200ºF. About the most accurate method is the water drop method. Take a drop of water and drip it on the block where it meets the head. If it slowly sizzles, then it's perfect. Doesn't sizzle, just steams, then you are below 200, if it looks like bacon in a frying pan, then it's too hot.

Stokke, did I see you using the DX8? If so, put the telemetry on it and wrap that temp probe around the head where it meets the block. It's pretty accurate from what I have seen.
 

Tony

Staff member
Ah okay, I didn't think the 7s had the dial on the top right. Looked at some pictures and it does. Losing my mind over the forum issues.
 

Westy

LEGEND
Tony .... I read it in one of my Model Airplane flying mags (APRIL 2012) .... one of the nitro pro's giving some tuning tips...... page 96 in the rotor speed section..... ahhh ... just locating it now .... it now ....

here is it.... .flick .... flick ....

it talks about
Heli Pilot Tom Erik Rolfson - Norway and quotes:
the Author Quotes
"Pilots may adjust their engines by sound, the amount of exhaust smoke, or simply by the performance of the helicopter. However I am a fan of adjusting the mixture to both back plate and heard temperature, but I was surprised to find that rather than use an infra-red gun, he used his finger. After a flight, he touches the side of the engine and sees how long he can keep it there. He aims for 3-4 seconds for a good mixture, while 5-6 seconds is to rich and 1-2 is too hot and too lean." Unquote

Westy, that is more for electric motors than nitro. Electric doesn't like to be above 160ºF and these engines like to be run at about 200ºF. About the most accurate method is the water drop method. Take a drop of water and drip it on the block where it meets the head. If it slowly sizzles, then it's perfect. Doesn't sizzle, just steams, then you are below 200, if it looks like bacon in a frying pan, then it's too hot.

Stokke, did I see you using the DX8? If so, put the telemetry on it and wrap that temp probe around the head where it meets the block. It's pretty accurate from what I have seen.
 
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Tony

Staff member
When I first got started in nitro back in the day, I did that and had others do it as well. The problem came when you find that people have a different tollerance to pain. Same engine, some could hold their finger on there for 6-10 seconds, where others only a second or two. So one would lean the crap out of it and the other would be adding fuel. I use a temp gun and my telemetry, it's the most accurate.
 

Westy

LEGEND
I was thinking the same thing when I read it .... like someone like me that is used to working around (well used to be) hot engines and parts.... I had a high threshold to heat and pain. I too use a top quality heat gun on all my batts and electric motors to make sure I am not "Cooking them"
 
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