Hey bro .. To be honest. 450 is one of the worst sizes to autorotate. Its much harder and it needs extreme amounts of practice and timing to autorotate a 450. cause its light, the blades are small and the momentum is just not there so with the smallest amount of load, they slow down REALLY fast.. and stall.
Even a 500 is very iffy. MUCH practice needed. 550 onwards the disc is big enough to autorotate. I have honestly never pulled a good auto on a 450. My 450 pro had some crashes because i was being brave tryng to pull an auto ..
Autos are very simple:
The idea is that you hold some negative (NOT FULL NEGATIVE) .. like say how much you would use to hover a heli that size upside down. just under mid pitch. thats enough.. Your idea is not to push the heli towards the ground but to use that negative pitch to gain headspeed (windmilling) while heading INTO the wind (ALWAYS). Now depending on the size of the heli, your goal is to flare and use VERY LITTLE positive pitch. What do I mean by flare? :: THe heli is most likely travelling forward (if not push it a teeny teen. bit forward while giving negative pitch windmilling.. ) so when you are about 10 ft from the ground you very gently pull on the elevator stick so it will stop moving forward, and will convert that energy that it had moving forward and you will actually hear your blades pick up a bit of RPM by that flare. All that rpm is what ou are using to maintain lift. While flaring you would bring the collective very gently from negative to positive pitch, whip the tail around (if needed) and set the heli down slow and soft in an orientation you are confortable in.
You will hear me say :: SLOW .. gentle... teeny weeny a lot lol .. because any jerky or sudden movement in any direction will cause you to loose that energy that you are storing in the bldes to land.
So the bigger the bird and bigger the blades they will naturally wanna just hang in the air as the blades have significant weight and set it down.
I probably mkae it sound very complicated. but just remember, that too much negative will create a downward mementum in the heli's body and you will use most of your headpseed over taking that momentum and making it hover .. by the time that happens you are too low and out of time
700's are the best to learn autos on
how to start learning in real life: START small. MINI autos. that is any distance from 2ft off ground to say 5 ft off the ground.. past 5-6ft and till about 20 ft high is an unsage distance.. Its too low to gain rpm .. and too high to maintain headspeed after throttle hold.. So in the safe distance (say 6ft to .5 ft ) .. (approx numbers for a 700 size bird) .. you learn how to use your positive collective to gently bring the heli down. you dont have to use any negative at all. all you will be doing is hitting TH and then managing your collective all the way down and setting it where you want it to sit.
After you are fuly confident in that part. you have more than half of the work down.
Then the next step is to go high.. The higher you are the more time you have to gain energy and then hover at the end. so start with small ones. and then go past that unsafe window and use the hieight to your advantage. And yes its VERY VERY important to learn autos!
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you can do small autos with the 450 too.. and you'll see what i was talking about.. you will have about 1ft -2ft off the ground ad any higher it will wanna fall like a rock..
One thing.. When I said push the nose down very little .. i mean very little. imagine the rotor as a solid disc.. for most lift you want the most surface area to be contact with the upcoming air (into the wind) .. and too sharp of a down ward angle and you will not feed the windmill enough air..
I explained in words.. it was the best i could lol.. but I recommend watching on youtube Curtis Youngblood's auto lesson .. or buy the vieo from smack talk. they are what explained and taught me autos. I still shiver when i take it high and hit TH.. but when it lands.. its an amazing feeling
