Already went back to the manual when I realized this wasn't right. It was the metal arms and the plastic ones atached to them, Mine were assembled that far when i ot them so there was one less step in messing it up. anyway, they are right now. I have gears coming in the morning so hiopefully I can get this thing in the air tomorrow. I am going to go through the BeastX again just to check everything now that I have been through it once and kind of know what is coming. I am generally up by 2 am so I can futz around in the shop all I want and tinker on things like that. People used to get all worked up when I fired up my late models in the midle of the night to check timing or jetting. I can get away with lots more with this electric Rc stuff!
450 Align TRex 450 Pro v2 3 GX build
- Thread starter Chompwat
- Start date
Already went back to the manual when I realized this wasn't right. It was the metal arms and the plastic ones atached to them, Mine were assembled that far when i ot them so there was one less step in messing it up. anyway, they are right now. I have gears coming in the morning so hiopefully I can get this thing in the air tomorrow. I am going to go through the BeastX again just to check everything now that I have been through it once and kind of know what is coming. I am generally up by 2 am so I can futz around in the shop all I want and tinker on things like that. People used to get all worked up when I fired up my late models in the midle of the night to check timing or jetting. I can get away with lots more with this electric Rc stuff!
I am getting some of the high-strength 150-tooth main gears today and was wondering if anyone has suggestions on the pinion that works best with that gear. I shojld be getting some of the original 121-tooth gears as well and might go with that for now if I can;t find a compatible pinion for the 151-tooth gears.
Slobberdog
Well-Known Member
if you are going from the helical gear to the straight black gear you will want to keep the same ratio,
helical pinion 12 teeth 121 main gear = 10.08 ratio
straight gear 150 tooth closest you are gonna get is 15 tooth to give you 10.00 ratio
why have you gone from the helical gears?
helical pinion 12 teeth 121 main gear = 10.08 ratio
straight gear 150 tooth closest you are gonna get is 15 tooth to give you 10.00 ratio
why have you gone from the helical gears?
Because for a long time I have not been able to get the original gears. this last time I ordered I think they had them and ordered some but won;t count on that until I actually see them as their njmbering/descriptions aren;t always the best.
Almost ready to re-maiden the trex 450 with the BeastX. All looks right, have been through the menu twice today and can't find anytyhing that even looks a little wrong.
One thing I would like to do is figure out an "adjustment" to the landing skids to make them more grass friendly. i am considering rubber banding some 12"-long pieces of wood dowel across the front and reaar of the skids to help prevent some of the tip overs that have ruined otherwise good looking (survivable) landings in the yard. Anyone done anything like that? I don;t want to go with the long sticks with balls on themas I can see those vibrating enough to maybe screw with the gyro but shorter ones shojld not vibrate or mess up the CG. I think.
I have to mow the lawn anyway so will try to scalp a "flying field" for myself while the wife is not looking.
One thing I would like to do is figure out an "adjustment" to the landing skids to make them more grass friendly. i am considering rubber banding some 12"-long pieces of wood dowel across the front and reaar of the skids to help prevent some of the tip overs that have ruined otherwise good looking (survivable) landings in the yard. Anyone done anything like that? I don;t want to go with the long sticks with balls on themas I can see those vibrating enough to maybe screw with the gyro but shorter ones shojld not vibrate or mess up the CG. I think.
I have to mow the lawn anyway so will try to scalp a "flying field" for myself while the wife is not looking.
Slobberdog
Well-Known Member
good luck on the re maiden.
Straight cut gears are louder than helical gears, but they are stronger. I remember that from my racing days years ago
I set the striaight gear mesh tight on a slip of instruction paper from some kit I had here and that is hardly louder than the helical gears. If they last longer I could care less about a little noise!
Tony
Staff member
Straight cut gears are louder than helical gears, but they are stronger. I remember that from my racing days years ago
This would be exactly true IF the gears had the same pitch (size). If you look at the helical gears, they are twice as big almost (hence going from 150 to 121 tooth) so the helical in this case will take more power. But when you are talking about transmissions in race cars, you are exactly right, straight cut is much better and stronger for high power applications.
It flies! But, it hade a nasty wobble when I first went up so landed (the dowels work great in the grass) and turned dial #1 down about 1/8 turn and that got rid of the wobble except when I give it controls to front, back or side to side it will pick up a bit of a wobble but then it goes away. I turned up the throttle 5% to 75% and will see if that extra head speed fixes that. Other than that this thing is a rock in the sky. I can even land sort of where I want!
I am reading through the manual for a while to see if there are other adjustments I need to make to calm it down in terms of the wobble later if it persists.
I am reading through the manual for a while to see if there are other adjustments I need to make to calm it down in terms of the wobble later if it persists.
murankar
Staff member
Get rid of the wobble first. All the head speed is going to do is mask it. That is if you are above the slowest rated head speed. If your head speed is to low then that could induce odd behaviors such as a wobble.
Make sure you have enough head speed, check for the wobble, make your adjustments rest. Once that is fixed then raise your head speed to what you want.
You'll discover how your bird handles better at lower head speeds.
Make sure you have enough head speed, check for the wobble, make your adjustments rest. Once that is fixed then raise your head speed to what you want.
You'll discover how your bird handles better at lower head speeds.
I'm not at all sure what the proper head speed is or how we measure it. I now I am a couple teeth light on the pinion right now (correct one is on order) and had the throttle curve at 75% so upped that a bit trying to compensate for the smaller pinion. since doing that I was able to adjust the BeastX #1 dial back up about half of what I had taken out of it and it is still stable. I want to get a few flights in like that and if it holds stable will jack the BeastX back up to where it was from the factory.
OK, something is bad wrong now.
I have been flying the Trex 450 battery after battery, am getting an easy 6 minutes (soon to go to 7 minutes judging by the charging) and it still sounds clean, no gear grinding, no clicks, it's not falling out of the sky, not tipping over (still have the 12" cheaters on the skids, I ain;t stupid) and it just keeps on keeping on. i am not used to this much flying without fixing anything. Is this the BeastX sucking me in before it smashes my helo against the house?
I am also consistently landing on a 2X4ft mat that I lay in the grass to give me a sort of surface to fly from. I had all I could do to keep it in the yard before!
I feel like I am ready for some forward flight but will wait until I go to the flying field for that as I have just enough room to get in serious trouble here in the yard. I know I can;t go far no matter where I am because this is still a little helo but I have more fudge room out there.
Am I going goofy or might I actually have this 45o dialed in sort of?
I have been flying the Trex 450 battery after battery, am getting an easy 6 minutes (soon to go to 7 minutes judging by the charging) and it still sounds clean, no gear grinding, no clicks, it's not falling out of the sky, not tipping over (still have the 12" cheaters on the skids, I ain;t stupid) and it just keeps on keeping on. i am not used to this much flying without fixing anything. Is this the BeastX sucking me in before it smashes my helo against the house?
I am also consistently landing on a 2X4ft mat that I lay in the grass to give me a sort of surface to fly from. I had all I could do to keep it in the yard before!
I feel like I am ready for some forward flight but will wait until I go to the flying field for that as I have just enough room to get in serious trouble here in the yard. I know I can;t go far no matter where I am because this is still a little helo but I have more fudge room out there.
Am I going goofy or might I actually have this 45o dialed in sort of?
Tony
Staff member
When a gyro is setup correctly, it will be almost hands off stable, and it sounds like yours is right there.
Yes, do the FF out in an open field, BUT, DO NOT fly too far away. If you watch my video series on how to fly, I set up boxes for boundaries. If you just fly out away from yourself, it will get so far out that you will lose orientation and the heli will just go away. Have a watch of my flight school and see how I set everything up. It's a great way to learn how to transition from hovering to FF.
However, I have not done any of the forward flight videos yet. Matt and I did shoot some video, but it didn't turn out and we need to do it again. But, you can get the idea by watching the videos of where to place the boxes, and I do have articles on the FF that you can read though. As always, ask questions, that is what we are here for!
Yes, do the FF out in an open field, BUT, DO NOT fly too far away. If you watch my video series on how to fly, I set up boxes for boundaries. If you just fly out away from yourself, it will get so far out that you will lose orientation and the heli will just go away. Have a watch of my flight school and see how I set everything up. It's a great way to learn how to transition from hovering to FF.
However, I have not done any of the forward flight videos yet. Matt and I did shoot some video, but it didn't turn out and we need to do it again. But, you can get the idea by watching the videos of where to place the boxes, and I do have articles on the FF that you can read though. As always, ask questions, that is what we are here for!
I do alot of teaching fixed wing flying in our club so know all about wandering off into the distance. I let my students do that a little so they get to see how little they can see before I bring it back. so far all I can teach anyone about the helicopter is getting it out of the case without hurting myself.
I'll check out the videos!
stevebtx12
New Member
7 minutes sound great from my experience, I usually limit to about 6, staying on the safe side, since I don't carry a volt meter.
murankar
Staff member
Head speed about 2300-2700 is a good starting point. I know that a 13t pinion on a 3000kv motor running a 2200 mah 3s battery is to slow. I also know that on a fb head that not enough head speed will cause it to bob and quiver. Fbl units will try and correct this and you might think its a different issue like with gain, I would think.
Keep in mind that the higher your head speed the more stable it will fly with added responsiveness. You will have to find your sweet spot.
Keep in mind that the higher your head speed the more stable it will fly with added responsiveness. You will have to find your sweet spot.
Are people using a tach to measure head speed?
Hi Guys. I've not been on for a few days due to being in a period of mourning! For my newly built heli that is.
Having had 8 successful flights on the default 3GX flight settings I decided to try the settings that we had talked about earlier in this thread.
Disaster.. I hadn't given any thought as to how different the heli would feel. Only a few seconds in to the flight I wasn't enjoying the experience, and I let my thoughts distract me. In she went on the right hand side from about five feet, and I just didn't react fast enough. Bang!!!
I immediately hit TH but I could tell it was heavy as my new bird lay there twitching and buzzing as the gyro was trying in vain to work the servos. And where was the tail rotor unit?
It took 4 days before I could even bring myself to examine the wreckage.
Now that I have my worst fears have been realised. If it can be bent it is, if it can be stripped it has.
Main blades trashed. DFC linkage bent. Main shaft bent. Main gear stripped. Top main bearing now feels gritty, no doubt due to the side load placed on it. Skids cracked. Tail boom and torque tube bent beyond recognition. Forward TT drive gears stripped. Tail rotor shaft bent. DS 425 gears stripped. Pitch and elevator servos also have a slight click to them, though I've not stripped them yet.
Total repair cost not including servos is £72 GBP, about $110 USD plus delivery.
I am confident I can repair the tail servo, but I have yet to look at the cyclic servos. The gears sets are almost the same price as a new servo.
Oh, and the tail rotor unit was about 70 feet away having cleared a four foot fence!
I was gutted as the flights I had were all positive experiences with a feeling of complete control.
I have yet to declare the repair bill to my wife!
Having had 8 successful flights on the default 3GX flight settings I decided to try the settings that we had talked about earlier in this thread.
Disaster.. I hadn't given any thought as to how different the heli would feel. Only a few seconds in to the flight I wasn't enjoying the experience, and I let my thoughts distract me. In she went on the right hand side from about five feet, and I just didn't react fast enough. Bang!!!
I immediately hit TH but I could tell it was heavy as my new bird lay there twitching and buzzing as the gyro was trying in vain to work the servos. And where was the tail rotor unit?
It took 4 days before I could even bring myself to examine the wreckage.
Now that I have my worst fears have been realised. If it can be bent it is, if it can be stripped it has.
Main blades trashed. DFC linkage bent. Main shaft bent. Main gear stripped. Top main bearing now feels gritty, no doubt due to the side load placed on it. Skids cracked. Tail boom and torque tube bent beyond recognition. Forward TT drive gears stripped. Tail rotor shaft bent. DS 425 gears stripped. Pitch and elevator servos also have a slight click to them, though I've not stripped them yet.
Total repair cost not including servos is £72 GBP, about $110 USD plus delivery.
I am confident I can repair the tail servo, but I have yet to look at the cyclic servos. The gears sets are almost the same price as a new servo.
Oh, and the tail rotor unit was about 70 feet away having cleared a four foot fence!
I was gutted as the flights I had were all positive experiences with a feeling of complete control.
I have yet to declare the repair bill to my wife!