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Good that it's working well. having the PWM set higher can reduce motor temps a little, that might explain the difference. I always just set the PWM as high as it can go.

Sorry my mistake but I got the 'HD' part right, that means it has it's own dedicated power connector which makes wiring to a battery much easier.

On the calibration procedure you should go a couple of % past the point where the ESC beeps then you won't have that problem.

FWIW Castle ESC's are made in China and Mexico (but designed in the USA). The fact is almost all helicopters and helicopter parts are made in the far east, Goblins for instance are made in Vietnam, the only exceptions I can think of are some of the high end German brands. I dont think you can...

Usually on mine from memory the high end is around the 70-80% mark but I cant recall what I ended up with at the low endpoint... As long as it's working you are fine, if the low endpoint was not 'low enough' the ESC would not arm and the motor would not run. Worth checking that the trim for...

I've got a few 700 and over size helis. My advice would be to avoid using Rx specific packs. I personally prefer to use a standard 2S LiPo with something like 25-30C rating and about 2200mAh. With one of those you can easily get six flights with capacity to spare (no need to have two onboard)...

Simple answer is 'yes' you can extend the three motor to ESC wires. You need to be much more careful if extending the battery to ESC wires, that can cause problems in the ESC.

+1.. please take a video!

The BEC built into the 60A Hobbywing ESC is rated at 18A burst and the 50A ESC has a 15A rated BEC. These are more powerful than most external seperate BECs, so you would effectively be downgrading if you went for something like the Castle 10A BEC

Ivan, you need to install the software as an administrator. To to this right click on the execute file and select 'Run as administrator' As for timing and PWM. I've found that default (15 degree) timing works fine on all my helis. PWM is best set as high as it will go, in fact i think on the...

yes, fixed end point is the way to go!

Castle end point calibration is unique. On 'Auto' you have to plug in the battery, let the ESC arm, then holding the plane down go to full throttle and hold full throttle for a few seconds so that the ESC 'learns' full throttle position. You have to repeat this process each and every flight...

Great looking fleet you have there but the last pic isn't showing for some reason. Powering up that 800 after flying only the smaller helis could cause some 'looseness of the bowls', the big helis are awsome things to experience in operation. You will find that the bigger they are the easier...

Phil, I'm struggling to come with with a sensible explanation other than maybe an issue with the power supply to the receiver and FBL.. But that really shouldn't be an issue because your Hobbywing ESC has an excellent internal BEC that has more than ample power rating. It's hard to figure how...

I'm 99.9% certain that all the 550 models use the taller 700e (non-F3C) landing gear, so the gear that you have purchased will I'm pretty sure be the same as currently fitted. For the lower profile legs you want the 700 F3C type, or the 600 Pro type (they are the same part). I gave all the part...

Yes there are many common parts especially between the 550 and 600 models. Be careful with the landing gear though. I'm pretty sure that the 550 already uses the longer landing gear legs as per the 700e (non-F3C). To increase tail clearance I'm pretty sure that you would have to fit the shorter...

Sorry to hear about the crash. It sounds like you had no control which would suggest some sort of radio issue?

The 50A and 60A are the same physical size and within a few grams of each other in weight. The 60A is also more advanced in that it has 'active freewheeling' making it more efficient and cooler running. So at the same price there is only one choice!

If the capacitor had come loose there is a good chance that the ESC is toast. The capacitor protects the ESC from voltage spikes due to inductance in the wires between the battery and the ESC. If the cap was disconnected then the components in the ESC get damaged very quickly if not instantly. A...

Hard to say what the problem is to be honest, in addition to the ESC it could be several things, off the top of my head: Battery old/tired causing voltage to sag and LVC to activate Bad connection somewhere Loss of reception BEC problem Servo problem causing high current drain leading...