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According to the manual flashing red and green means the charger is overheating, so 'resetting' would mean allowing it time to cool down. To be honest though it would probably be worth getting a better charger.

Good point about heat, you need to get it up to around 200C to release the loctite but only attempt this if you need to after removing the shaft from the plastic grip, you don't want a melted grip!

The feathering shaft along with the grip that's still attached can be pulled out of the head block. It may be tight if the rubber dampers havent been greased so they grip onto the shaft, but it will move if you push it firmly enough. Once the shaft is out on the head you can slide the grip off...

I can only assume that Banggood have got me mixed up with someone who can actually fly helis worth a damn, because they seem to be making a habit of sending be helis for review. I'm not about to tell them that they have the wrong guy! The new helis is the XLPower 520 And someone far better...

I'm with Tony, the oscillation only appears to start when the servos bind. If you stop the binding you should stop the problem (hopefully).

Nice Bearded Dragon, my son used to keep one. here's my full dog collection:

This is some testing of capacitors to prevent 'Brownout': YGE 90/120LV 5,7V 6/12A BEC with capacitors | VStabi I use two of them wired into a servo type plug, here is a typical installation on my Trex 700X:

Hi, What Neil is referring to is 'Frame Rate' which is adjustable in some transmitters. I could conceivably be the problem but at least in theory because your servos are digital which should work with faster frame rates without any issue. Normally when you get this sort of problem I'd suspect...

My new hall effect / contactless KST servos arrived today: The model numbers are: MS325 for the swash and MS565 for the tail. They look really good. For KST they are quite a spendy servo, right up there with some of the premium/boutique brands, but the hall effect feature is as far as I know...

Replacement gears would be the most cost effective solution. They can be a bit fiddly to fit, just make careful note of what gear goes where as you strip them down, taking a photo of the gears before dismantling is not a bad idea.

They are pretty ancient but if you swap the plugs they will work with a modern Rx.

Quite a zoo we have here! bigone5500, 6 Dachshunds!... wow, they must keep you on your toes. I've got three dogs but all of different types breeds, none names after helicopters though!

He's a Wire Haired Dachshund, standard size so he'll be a good size once he's grown

Doh!.. I had a feeling I'd missed something out!

The weather made this a good weekend for building and I had a new little helper, here he is chacking the swash for level: And resting after a hard days building:

Yes, that's exactly what happened to mine. Putting the battery under high load such as a pitch pump causes the voltage to 'sag' which triggers the low voltage RPM reduction. Mine was noticeably worse on cold days. Reducing the voltage trigger value fixed it completely, it's never happened since.

Yes, or add an external BEC such as the Castle Creations 10A BEC.. All in all I guess that's a lot of upgrades but not an awful lot more than three cyclic servos.

The KST DS515MG servos are good servos. They are of course 'HV' so to get the most out of them you would also have to upgrade the tail servo to an HV type (e.g. KST DS565 ) then run them all on high voltage. Most good heli servos these days are HV.

That was a nice safe maiden Keith, well done. Bet you're looking forward to getting it out for a few more flights.

You need the newer secondary shaft. It's part number H0157-S.