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I've maidened mine, all went without a hitch though horrible weather has limited my flying opportunities and I've not had chance to video it yet. In comparison to the previous Strike 7 (which I also own) the tail is a big improvement. Tail is higher geared so spins faster and feels more...

It's related to EU regulations on use of radio frequencies. The regulation in question is to avoid the 'blocking' of the 2.4GHz spectrum in areas that have many 2.4GHz users. DSM2 uses two 'fixed' frequencies of the 80 that are available in the 2.4GHz band (the Tx actually selects two clear...

Perseverance pays off! Well done. What is REALLY important prior to attempting flight is to double and triple check that both swash and tail servo respose is correct both to Tx stick input and in compensation to movement of the heli. I cant over stress how important this part of the setup is...

You are correct. Any EU/UK spec Spektrum transmitter made in recent years do not support DSM2. If you have any old receivers that are DSM/DSM2 (i.e. with no DSMX support) then you are out of luck. US transmitters as Randy said are different, they have retained DSM2 backward compatibility.

Wiring looks ok. You should start out the setup with the servos disconnected from their links/pushrods so that they don't stall and burn out. You should also have the rudder servo unplugged from the FBL until you have set the correct center pulse (760us or 1520us). I cant help with StudioXM...

Can you take photos of all your wiring, nice and close so we can see what wires go to which ports?

Sure, i'll shoot a video. There are already some videos emerging by much better pilots than me. there are a couple on the soXos website: https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCe-CCgNJ0ACTtPaDv_mjm5Q Also this one which is especially impressive as it's running on a 6S battery and the motor from a 550:

Your receiver has Sbus output, so in this case the best way to connect it it to the Microbeast is by a single cable from the Sbus output of the receiver. This saves a lot of wiring clutter. It's covered in this video:

Of course the method I use only works if the pitch gauge is kept in the same orientation as it was zero'ed in. For example if you zero the pitch gauge on top of the motor with the face of the gauge pointing forward then you must check your blades with the blade being measured pointing forward...

It's really just an evolution of previous soXos helis. It's based quite closely on the previous Strike 7. SoXos have focused in an the weak points of that heli and improved them, plus made a few 'general' upgrades. The Strike 7 was in itself an updated version of the previous soXos DB7. One of...

I've got one in the workshop, just started the build. I already had a 'old' Strike 7 but this new 7.1 has some really good upgrades.

I never level my heli, it's a lot of fuss and un-necessary. I just zero the pitch gauge on the frame or the top of the motor. That way it doesn't matter if the heli is level or not.

If your tail gain is set very low the servo wont move much. Try increasing the gain in the Tx to say +40% or higher.

Standard acrylic clear lacquer out of a 'rattle can' will do the job. My favorite lacquer is 2K type, it gives a deep liquid gloss finish, but that stuff is very toxic, a special mask is required. Surface prep is the key either way. Use a Scotchbrite pad to scuff up the surface otherwise the...

I'm getting one of these:

I was just going to say, check that the direction of correction on the swash (tilt the heli and make sure that the swash corrects against direction of tilt). This along with checking tail correction direction, and correct response to stick input is absolutely essential prior to any maiden...

I don’t use Futaba . Try using the ‘normal’ setting rather than AVCS

Fly-n-ow.. actually you are correct in that the servo is larger than standard size.. but this doesn't make any difference. The receiver still doesn't provide power to the servo as such, the receiver is basically a 'pass-through' from battery to the servo. The 'weak link' as far as being able to...

It sounds like you might have your tail gyro gain set too low. This would mean that the tail would continue to drift just as you describe. With the heli on the bench does the tail compensate correctly when you turn the heli by hand? If not then gain is too low. The gain should be adjustable...

how you describe it is how all heading hold tail gyros/FBL work. I've used many different types and in heading hold they all stay where they are put, EXACTLY like you show in your video. 100% normal behaviour. So to answer your two questions: Yes - in rate mode the tail returns to centre. Yes...