Glue For Polycarbonate

Tony

Staff member
When I'm working with acrylic, I use Weld-On 3. It is a very thin and VERY fast set. That stuff there is 16, and although I do have some of that stuff, I have never needed to use it. But, it will have a slow cure time and you will not want to do anything with the part for at least a few days after you are done and know you don't have any holes or bubbles.
 

Tony

Staff member
Then I would suggest Weld-On 4. Little longer set than 3, but not near what 16 is. Just remember, this stuff is a solvent, not a glue, and when you get in the 3 and 4 range, they are thinner than water. Just be ready for it. It's made to go in with capilary action so your parts have to be perfectly straight. The 16 is actually a gap filler so if your parts are not perfect (and I mean PERFECT), then just stick with the 16.
 

Tony

Staff member
Like I said, it is a solvent. Once it dries and the acrylic cures, it's noting but acrylic in there. I have flame polished and never had an issue. Just don't polish and then use the weld-on. It will crack every single time and look like crap.
 

bigone5500

Well-Known Member
My goal is to have joints like what you see in stores. Where they join is nice and clear. Or at least close to it.
 

Tony

Staff member
In order to get that, you will have to have every joint perfectly flat with just a slight radius on the edge so the solvent can wick in. It's a huge pain, but if I can build an entire 40 gallon sump for my saltwater tank and have it hold for the last 5 or 6 years, I don't think you will have an issue lol.
 

Tony

Staff member
Rough cut was with a table saw with a very high carbide tooth count blade. I also use just a regular skill saw if I needed to cut down a full sheet. Then I used a router with a flush cut bit to get the edges ready for welding.
 

bigone5500

Well-Known Member
So I should just cut the pieces and sand them down to a fine smooth finish and glue?

I'm really interested to see if the Tenax I have will adhere it. I'll post back with my findings.
 

bigone5500

Well-Known Member
Just got done with a couple tests. The tenax will indeed bond the material. It's a fast set liquid of which I have read that it's methylene chloride. Not sure. The test subbject is 1/4" poly. One piece is beveled for fun. As you can see it wicks underneath nicely. But not as much as i would like. Id say there is about 80% coverage. I used the small pipette that was sold with the tenax. I had to use a syringe to fill it.

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Tony

Staff member
Most times, you have to hit it from both sides. I know I do anyway. And make sure it is very clean and very flat and those bubbles will go away. And I use a needle bottle that is made for this stuff. Best $2 I ever spent lol.
 

bigone5500

Well-Known Member
Most times, you have to hit it from both sides. I know I do anyway. And make sure it is very clean and very flat and those bubbles will go away. And I use a needle bottle that is made for this stuff. Best $2 I ever spent lol.

I have one of those bottles but the needle tip clogged up and is down for the count. I did apply the adhesive on both sides. I blame my method of of holding it down on why it didn't wick in properly. I used 400 grit automotive sandpaper to start then finished with 800 grit. I'll practice a bit more before I give it a go on my finished project which is a base for my arduino thermometer.

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Tony

Staff member
If you hold it down, and then release before it is fully cured, it will also cause those bubbles. Try to just hold it down with gravity or maybe a book or a can of soup (yes, I have used all of those lmao).
 

bigone5500

Well-Known Member
Just had a thought...The front with the display will have a 70 degree bevel to the bottom edge. I can use a ball of modeling clay to hold it in place while I apply it to the front then after it takes hold, remove the clay and do the backside.
 
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