250 Giving on Blade 300X - Need A Replacement???

My blade 300X has been upgraded after many crashes.
Savox servos - SH 0257 Cyclic and SH 0262 tail
Carbon fiber blades
Aluminum Head
Aluminum tail case

Still a POS! gain on the gyro is at 65% (DX6I TX) - any higher increases tail wag (but tail holds on hard collective pumps) any lower tail drifts
I cant figure it out. Do I need to cut the tie wrap on the Beast X?? Or add another piece of foam tape? Tail slider is buttery smooth to note.

Im thinking of going with the T rex 250 Pro DFC?? any Comments?? Pros & Cons? - If not this heli, any suggestions??

I have the Trex 450 Pro DFC Super Combo and it is amazing compared to the blade products (300X).

I wish I could figure this out as I have a bunch of additional parts for repairs cause this is the heli I learned to fly with, it used to fly pretty good when it was new.

Thanks for any & all help!
 

Tony

Staff member
It's just my opinion, but I think you will hate the 250. Everything is very small and very brittle. It even comes with a screw driver because it's that hard to find that size of torx. If they still use torx. But, I would stick with the 450.

Have you done a mechanical setup on the tail? Meaning, adjusting the control arm on the tail to get rid of the wag? I would do that. However, I would only mess with it as much as you can, then I would pull the beastx off of it and put it on a 500 or something. I hear that gyro is the shiznit.
 
I have not done a set up on the tail, I mean, I did re set the end points when I installed the 0262 servo and the aluminum tail case. Everything looks good as far as tail slider arm being at 90 degrees to the tail boom and it is at the center of the tail shaft. I'm pulling my hair out here. There has to be something I am missing. I have heard good and bad things about the 250. What heli do you recommend in the 300 size? I Need something to fly around the yard - 450 is just a little big for the yard.

Also, Im fixing to pre order the SAB Goblin 500 - What gyro would you recommend? I have been looking at the Mini V Bar but seen on another forum that it don't have enough ports for a stand alone BEC, or just go with the Silver full size V Bar? Or what is the best thing going as far as Gyro's, my budget is pretty big so i can afford to put the best Gyro in it, just dont know which one still being new to sport? Im going to use my Futaba T8FG TX. Maybe go with the CGY750?

Thanks for all the advice an input! It realy helps us newbs out!
 

murankar

Staff member
Along with the pitch slider being 90 the servo arm and push rod need to be 90.

Gyro the brain/ikon are said to be really really good.

Another thing I did on my exi to get the tail to stop drifting on low gains was to adjust the push rod. I would make adjustments until I had zero drift. In my case was to lengthen the push rod till the drift stopped. I can't remember exactly how many turns I made but I don't think it was more than 5 or 6.

Unless you go with 450 then your only option is the 250. You could also look at the 130x, its smaller yet but you may need to upgrade a couple things up front. Personally I would go for the 450.
 
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Along with the pitch slider being 90 the servo arm and push rod need to be 90.

Gyro the brain/ikon are said to be really really good.

Another thing I did on my exi to get the tail to stop drifting on low gains was to adjust the push rod. I would make adjustments until I had zero drift. In my case was to lengthen the push rod till the drift stopped. I can't remember exactly how many turns I made but I don't think it was more than 5 or 6.

Unless you go with 450 then your only option is the 250. You could also look at the 130x, its smaller yet but you may need to upgrade a couple things up front. Personally I would go for the 450.

10/4, i just adjusted the push rod as I seen the blades were not tracking true although the slider and the servo were at 90. I'll fly it in the morning and see how she does. The only problem with low gains is the tail not holding on hard collective pumps. Even I get the drift out by adjusting the pushrod at low gains, will this keep the tail in place?
 

murankar

Staff member
I did that for my basic setup. You may have gotten this already but is the servo arm ball link in the right location for that heli?
 

Tony

Staff member
In normal mode, every helicopter (Align, SAB Youngblood, doesn't matter) will blow the tail out. You are adding not only pitch to teh blades which creates more drag, but you are also adding a LOT more torque with the motor. To truly test the tail holding power, you need to be in a flat throttle curve in idle up. If you watch in my Align 450 video, I did a pitch pump (I think) and the tail blew out. But in IU1 and 2 the tail was solid.

When you fold your tail blades in the same direction, with your rudder stick centered, servo arm 90º to the linkage, the blades should NOT line up. It's not like setting 0º of pitch on the head. You NEED some right angle thrust to counter that head. That is why I say to center the slider, hover it and check for drift, find out what way it's drifting and what way to adjust the rod to remove the drift, go 1 turn, then do it all over again. It can take a couple battery packs to get it perfect, but you will get there.

Also, you can use SubTrim to 90º the servo, but DO NOT use trim on the rudder or cyclic. It will throw off the gyro with it being flybarless.

Hope this helps.
 
Big help! I was unaware that you could use sub trim on the rudder servo as it says everywhere on the beast X do not use sub trims.

I'll try to tune it out tomorrow.

Thanks again Tony for all the advice.
 

Tony

Staff member
On the Align 250 note, if you get the 250 Pro with teh DFC head, it may be better than the first 250 they came out with. I have actually heard nothing bad about the pro kit. My opinions and conclusions are on the first kit.

If I was in your shoes, I would order the kit. I would order the super combo with the 3GX. Why? Because you are pretty much buying LESS than the electronics. I mean less than $400 and you are getting 3 DS415's, a DS425, MX250 motor, and the Align ESC with the newest 3GX gyro. Do you have to run the gyro? Nope, you can take this gyro off the 300 and stick it on the 250. To be completely honest, I would probably take the chance on teh new 250 pro dfc. HELL I still might lmao.
 

Tony

Staff member
Big help! I was unaware that you could use sub trim on the rudder servo as it says everywhere on the beast X do not use sub trims.

I'll try to tune it out tomorrow.

Thanks again Tony for all the advice.

It does? I have never heard anything about not being able to use subtrim. I know you cant' use trim (the buttons on top of your Tx next to the sticks), but subtrim is the only way to get the servos where you watn them. Unless there is a way to center the servo in the gyro that I'm unaware of ATM.
 
That probably confirms me getting the 250 Pro. I have really enjoyed the 450 Pro DFC so far, although i dont get too crazy with it yet.
 

Tony

Staff member
Yeah, with all of the new things coming out, I have to remember that QC is getting better as are the fitment of the parts and I need to keep an open mind. I would love to have my 250 back, but it will be ALL ALIGN! None of this HK/EXI crap lmao. I hope you get it and it's a great piece of kit.
 
Done deal, I will order it tomorrow, can I get that from here in the states. My daughter orders the 450 from helipad and took forever to get here. What on line hibby shop do you recommend me buying the 250 from?
 

Tony

Staff member
Bud, there are a lot and I would love to search them out for you, but my internet is a picky little... Yeah... I can go to some websites, but not others, it's weird. Anyway, Power Hobbies on Ebay are good. Or is it Nitro Power Hobbies... Crap, can't look to find out. It's where I ordered my 450 Pro V2 from. They are in Ny. Then there is GoNitroHobbies. AGain, in Ny and about the same price as the other one I posted. It came down to one penny between them when I chose mine.

If you are wanting to do it from somewhere else other than ebay, I like ready heli. Great customer service. Amainhobbies is another good one and they may have a sale on. HeliDirect will rob you blind on shipping. Maybe not for the big stuff, but the little stuff for sure. And there are a lot more, I would just search for a bit and find your price. Make sure you are getting the newest kit. Ebay likes to sell the out of date kits that they buy for cheap. Just have to be vigilant when buying and ask questions.

Good luck and can't wait to see it in the air. You better post pics and vids lmao.
 

Lee

Well-Known Member
Is the heli drifting in the same direction all the time? Is it clockwise? If so then this is due to the tail not producing enough torque to hold it steady.
Tony already mentioned about the blades not being 0º pitch at centre, but to have 4/5º pitch to counter the thrust.
One way to do this, is to drop your gyro tail gain down to the point it become rate mode. Then hover the heli and see which way it drifts, and how much rudder input you need to counter it. Then move the whole tail servo unit up or down the boom to eliminate the rudder input needed to hold the heli still. Once you've done that, put the heli back into Head hold mode 65% or what ever you had it at, and it should be solid.
Give this a try and see what happens.
As for the Goblin 500, you lucky B. I have the Ikon and love it. With the auto bail out feature, it makes flying new manoeuvres that much easier. Another one getting rave reviews is the Helicommand HC3 which also has a bailout feature.
 
OK, I adjusted the tail rotor push rod to where when the rotor blades are folded towards each other they were exact ( I know this is not right) they need to have some positive to counter the main rotor torque, but the wag is pretty much gone and the tail holds great!!!!

Thanks a lot for the advice on the tail push rod set up!!

On the flip side, I got a little too comfortable on flying it today and got it near inverted about 15' off the ground and freaked out , of course my natural move is to give it positive pitch which is exactly what I did and drilled it strait in to the ground. Thinking of getting the Fusuno canopy (stock one destroyed on impact) along with all the servo arms on the Savox 0257's.

How do you post pics on this forum?

Thanks again Tony for all the help, I really appreciate it.
 

Tony

Staff member
Good deal on the tail holding. All that matters is that it holds.

Major suck on the crash, but we have all lost orientation before. Now you know a little more on what to do and not do next time. Every flight is a test, and every crash is a lesson.

As for posting pics on the forum, there are two ways to do it. First in the quick reply box. There is an icon at the top just to the left of the film strip (4th from far right). You can click on that and either upload them from your computer, or from a URL.

The second method is to click on "Go Advanced" and scroll down to "Manage Attachments". In there, you can upload multiple pictures at once. Let me know if you need any more help with this.
 
10-4 on the luck B!!! I am going to wait to order it (Goblin 500) as parts become more available ( and I am definitely going with the Ikon brain) I read an article by Bert Kammemer and he said pretty good things about the bail out feature and the Ikon in general ( but he wasn't going to hate on the V-Bar either). Right now I am going to dive in to the Trex 250 Pro DFC Super combo. I have had pretty good luck with my 450 Pro DFC Super combo. I only fly it on good days as I am still a newb, but addicted to these heli's is to say the least!!

I replied to Tony about me getting the 300X flying right after using yalls advice on the tail set up, it fixed everything and the bird was flying great till I drilled in the ground.

Thanks again for all the help,it sure makes tuning these things up a big help!!
 

Lee

Well-Known Member
Adjusting the tail push rod is the same as moving the servo mount on the tail boom as Tony and I said. Different method, same effect. Only difference is, if you have to extend the push rod links too far, they will become a weak point, so in that case, its better to leave the links screwed in and move the servo instead. But you got it sorted now, which is the main thing.
Shame on the crash dude. One mistake beginners make when getting into trouble, is trying to power out of it with positive pitch, which inevitably ends with you drilling it into the ground.. A better mind set, is to leave the pitch at mid stick and get the bird level with cyclic input, then add the collective.. Then at least if it does go in while trying to recover, it goes in with less force, and hopefully with the heli more level.
Good luck with the 250
 
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