450 Crazy Vibrations with Dynam E razor 450?????

[Kingfish3r1]

I got some CRAZY vibrations with my Dynam E-Razor 450. I don't know why, When powering up or down it shakes a lot. I don't know much about this helicopter at all, as I just got it. Im using a programable, computerized Flysky Fs T6 Transmitter.

Thanks!
-James

 

[KLA]

2 things I would check first. Make sure the blades aren't too tight. And check that the bearings in the head block are tight and have no play at all. Your main shafts should not be able to move at all (other than spinning, of course)

 

[D.O.G.]

You can also check to see if your main blades are balance beside to tight like keith mention. Just a thought.

 

[murankar]

If this is a flybar head make sure the flybar is balanced correctly. Follow Tony's flybar head setup videos. Make sure the main shaft and head spinal shafts are not bent. CHeck the main gear to see if it may be warped. Other than that the only other thing that could cause the vibrations during spool up and spool down are loose blades. Whats happening is that there is not enough inertia to keep the blades straight out and they could be folding in the blade grips.

 

[Kingfish3r1]

I noticed a few weird things about this copter...
ALL the bolts are almost impossible to remove, even with the right hex key. They seem to be jammed in place and I risk breaking the bolt instead of actually removing it.

One of the flybar paddles is out of position and points slightly up instead of flat.

The Flybar is difficult to tilt.

Could these be playing a role in its shaking?

 

[KLA]

If one of the flybar paddles is pointing up that could throw it out of balance and in turn cause a vibration. Plus, if the flybar, or any of the head parts don't move smoothly it can definitely cause a vibration.

Unless you need to remove the bolts, I wouldn't worry about them. The person you got it from probably loctited the he'll out of them. Tight bolts is actually a good thing, of course like I said, until you need to remove them. A 450 has a lot of power and if your bolts aren't tight/loctited, then you take the chance of bolts loosening up or falling out completely, which could be disastrous. ANY bolt that goes into metal should have loctite on them.

- - - Updated - - -

Also, you don't want the blades too tight, but, like Mathias said, you don't want them too loose either. You kinda have to find that sweet spot somewhere in the middle. They should be equally tight enough so they don't flop around but loose enough that you can still move them by hand. A little trick I use is tighten them to the point that if you tilt the heli on its side they stay stretched out, then give the heli 1 good shake and the blades should fall, or fold up.

 

[murankar]

Also if you remove the paddles and caliper the flybar on both sides. Make sure you have the same amount of flybar on both sides. Then when you put the paddles back on make sure both paddles are the same distance from the flybar cage.

The flybar should move smoothly with out resistance. If it is not then clean up the linkages with a linkage reamer. It wont take much to fix it. You will need to make sure the bearings are running smooth and that nothing is pinched. Sometimes a bearing can get pinched and not move freely. You could check the paddle weights but I doubt they are going to be that far off.

 

[Kingfish3r1]

Sounds like a really dumb question, but if the bolts are all so hard to release how can I get em out? Haha
I can hardly move them until the hex keys lose grip and wear the teeth out on the bolt lmao.

 

[murankar]

There is a way to get them out. With that being a Chinese heli they probably used forever tight on the bolts. One thing is to heat up the metal piece that the bolt is in. Do not over heat it because you could ruin the carbon fiber. Also if the head stips out then cutting a grove in the head and using a flat head screwdriver will work. If you go that route you will want a new set of screws to rpelace the old ones. Be careful the metal of those screws could be soft and round out easily.

 

[Kingfish3r1]

I think I got a fix!!!

I thought a possibility to a stiff flybar was that it wasn't lubricated for a LONG time. When I got this heli from the owner, It had a bunch of dust on it. I took some good ol WD-40 and sprayed it on all the ball-joints up in the flybar. Then I moved the flybar for a few minutes to help it soak up the grease. I connected the battery and reinstalled the blades and that was it! The shaking stopped! It was awesome to see!

 

[trainrider06]

James i've had more than my share of striped button head screws, I've started to convert all my heli's to cap head screws, so if they do strip out you can get a pair of needle nose pliers on the thing at least to get it out.
As Uri says you can cut a slot in the screw and try that, but more times than not your gonna have to grind the head off the dang thing.....do you have a dremel or access to one? Those can be a lifesaver on those hard screws like that.
What you can try also is take a small needle nose pair of pliers and sometimes get a bite on the screw head and get it that way.

 

[trainrider06]

LOL good deal, but you might want a lube made for heli's or R/C aircraft in the future. Sounds like that thing is pretty dirty....

 

[Kingfish3r1]

Yep lmao I guess sometimes things is simple as that can make a wave of change. I was already worried that a part was damaged. A load of stress of my head . Im gonna go with your advice and upgrade my screws sometime very soon. When the weather is better I'm gonna give it a go and hopefully it will take some air and get the dust off this thing haha

 

[KLA]

WooHoo! Good deal, man. Glad to hear that you got it moving smoithly. You need to keep all of the head parts clean and lubricated. If you can, get some light weight oil, like 3 in 1 oil or fishing reel oil, and put a drop or so on all of the bearings in the head and move them around to work the oil in. You wanna keep everything moving smoothly.

Now that you got those few problems taken care of, post up a few pictures of you helis. I'm sure all of the members would love to see them.

 

[murankar]

I would still tear the head down and clean it for real. Spraying WD-40 on the head is a band-aid cure. Those bearings to include the thrust bearing are going to need some attention. If the cage was that stiff just from dust then those thrust bearings are going to be dry and will need grease.

 

[KLA]

Uri is exactly right. If I were you, I would definitely take his advice. If you aren't sure how everything goes together then take a few pictures in the process of taking it apart. I'll try to find an exploded view of the ERazor 450 head and send it to you.

 

[Kingfish3r1]

Yep I agree as well, gonna take apart the head system. Just worried about those bolts. What appliance should I use to heat them to remove the forever tight? I don't want to get em stuck in there.
Thanks!
-James

 

[trainrider06]

A soldering iron for one, put it on the head of the screw. But you'll need to be careful there so as not to burn/melt surrounding parts/areas. I believe there are liquid helpers also. If I were you unless you have say a very good set of hex drivers, I'd just see about at every oportunity using a pair of needle nose pliers to remove any of those that won't come out with just any kind of pressure. You'll end up reaming all of em out with no chance to use them again. An even halfway decent set of drivers is probably gonna run you 40-60, and up for a set new. If you have a substandard driver set, your only going to compound a problem of hard to get out screws.

 

[KLA]

Oh ain't that the truth. I've went thru 3 sets of hex drivers and 2 sets of bolts between my two 450's over the past 2 years. Once they slip the first time you can forget it. You're gonna end up replacing the bolt or the hex driver and sometimes both. Not to mention how many servo ears I have broken off. Sometimes it's very frustrating!!!

 

[D.O.G.]

Hey all. Like Rodney mention the soldering Iron & needle nose pliers "Long/short" works great. Alone with those tools I found something that grips nice and tight but won't cut the bolt like real pliers. Don't laugh but I added this to my tool collection. Toe nail clippers! It works