FBL Gyro Another one with Ikon Issues!

Hope it works.
The head bobbing was my issue with my 600. I changed to a bigger pinion as i was already at 100%. That did the trick.
Good luck.
 
that was my My Maiden issue "whobble" the GOV on IKON worked but only gave me about 1300rpm. So I switched to the ESC GOV and head speed did stablize for both norm/IU, but i did still had whobble as you are having. My fix was just resetting both ESC and IKON. Why! IDK.. but it worked and have been flying since with no issues. Hope you get yours ironed out.
 
right .... IKON reprogrammed for the 30th Time ..... pulled all the wiring apart and gave them some wiggling room!

Just getting blades off now to do another spool check............

Will then do a blade tracking expedition .... then off for some more testing.
 
Ok ... did my spool up with no blades .... it is fine as far as the eye can see.

Checked my tracking .... looks good.

Checked my headspeed and it shows 2230 ... but in the history, shows 1795 and 1564 ????? any way I will set it up for 2200 as all the Goblin gurus have requested and see how that goes .... off to test now!
 
I had a wobble like that once. It was a small crack in the frame that could not be seen unless I twisted it by hand. Probably not it. Just a thought.
 
The frame crack idea is a good one I think. Maybe something that is letting the tail boom flex around a bit, inducing the wobble. It is relatively slow and steady in amplitude, so I'm thinking not a gain issue. Gain issues will cause overshoots or undershoots and then settle out over time all else being equal. Or perhaps cause run away oscillations that just get worse and worse. Since you are cranking down the cyclic gain in prior test flight with no change in behavior, I'm inclined to think this is a mechanical issue. Something is letting the tail boom move around a bit or, as mentioned, headspeed is too low. Too low headspeed coupled with stiff dampeners on the goblin head would result in the same kind of wobble. Speeding it up should address it. Of course, for that degree of wobble I'd think it would have to be a very slow headspeed, 1500 area, maybe even less. Which would require you to put in more collective pitch to get it into a hover than normal, so I'd think you'd notice that.

Also, are you sure the servos weren't damaged? You moved them through their full range with some static pressure through the range to make sure they aren't slipping or anything like that? If one were slipping I might expect such a wobble to come and go for a short period, but might be worth checking if nothing else pans out.
 
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You have a bad vibration somewhere. In teh video, it looks like your rear tail block is about to fall off.
 
Somethings definitely out of balance. I don,t know if it is the camera or the heli but if you look at the swash when you were testing the tracking it seemed to be moving in about the same rhythum as your oscillation and the tail is moving at the same frequency. These are just my uninformed observations and I'm fresh out of ideas except to dismantle and reassemble almost from scratch checking every last nut and bolt so to speak. I hope you can get it sorted it must be frustrating not knowing where to look next.
 
That was the vibes coming from low head speed .....


got it fixed!...... Head Speed ! .... Increased ..... and did not di it at al .... just a little when you moved cyclic ....took 3% off the cyclic gain ... and it is nice! will do a bit more tuning tomorrow ... .did not get vid .... as was getting dark and I wanted to do it quick to report back as I got busy doing other things yesterday!

Oh ... and Excuse my manners ..... THANKS GUYS!!!!!! for all your suggestions it hums like an angry dragon fly now!!!!

Will get some data off head speed tomorrow .....

Only issue I had was the ESC low voltage warning beeper was going off (BEEP , BEEP ..... BEEP, beep ongoing .....) my bats are shot ..... My birthday coming up ... will see if the wife and kids will spring from some new ones .... will try some Turnigy A-Specs and also a Nano-tech to match the spare one I have ......

This will prove if they are truly rubbish or if they can handle the Jandle as we say back here!

If you don't know what Jandles are ... look in my vid .... above with Socks on .... totally non fashionable ... but I was doing that much walking in and out ..... and ... no one was there ! hahaha so who am I gonna impress! Lol ....
 
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I never have trusted those phone apps. If it was saying you were over 2200rpm on the head speed but your head speed was still too low on a 600, then it was reading VERY high. 2200 is the MAX you should run on a 600 sized bird, maybe 2300 if you are smacking the ever loving hell out of it. I would say either invest in a tach, or setup telemetry on your 7s and wire it into the motor and do the conversion. Then, you will have your reading on the Tx so you can see at any time.
 
The tach was showing history of heaps of 1564 RPM ..... which sounds real low.... but my batteries were getting tired......

How much will it cost for me to get Telemetry and a Tack module for the DX7s?
 
Telemetry module is about $57 USD. You will need to get the Brushless RPM sensor for it to read the brushless signal. Those are the only two parts you need, the rest is done on your Tx.
 
cool ... I have been reading up on them for the last half hour ..... and they have problems with them .... reading false RPM reading s... like 6000 to 8000RPM (over 4000 RPM out)..... they are saying you can over come it by reseting the module after spool up .... but kind of defeats the acuracy claim and would be a pain to remember to do that.... must be an issue when large draw is needed to start the motor running.
 
:beerchug: Oh ya! she is back and ready to smack. Glad you got it figured out. 2200RPM what you runnin a 23T? Oh and by the way :birthday: just in case I don't make it on the site.

DID you have to put a PIC of that nice yellow canopy up..
 
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Maybe trill the main gear or motor case and install magnets. That is what gaba and I are running on out nitros and it will work just as well on electric.
 
running Stock 21 Tooth..... .... should be at 2148 (75% gov Store mode) ... .will set up ID1 at 85% which will deliver around 2270 @ 90% motor efficiency

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22 days to go! hahaha for Bday!
Island Breeze said:
:beerchug: Oh ya! she is back and ready to smack. Glad you got it figured out. 2200RPM what you runnin a 23T? Oh and by the way :birthday: just in case I don't make it on the site.

DID you have to put a PIC of that nice yellow canopy up..
Click to expand...


Island Breeze said:
DID you have to put a PIC of that nice yellow canopy up..
Click to expand...

Yes I did! hhahahha
 
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Tony said:
Telemetry module is about $57 USD. You will need to get the Brushless RPM sensor for it to read the brushless signal. Those are the only two parts you need, the rest is done on your Tx.
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Tony will the spectrum brushless RPM sensor work with the IKon? I have it on my 3GX but it is information only.

Here is my recent flight with the IKon. Not happy with the tail. Not blaming the IKon yet. The tail is stable and although the video doesn't show it clearly when you here me say I just lost the tail it was dead stick, wouldn't do anything. Thank goodness I took up flying planes 3 weeks ago because my Heli turned facing me and I didn't panic. Looks like I bounced it on my landing but it actually didn't touch the ground.

Going to try a newer DS520 before anything else. The one on this bird has seen the ground quite a few times and has its 2nd gear set in it.

Tony will the spectrum brushless RPM sensor work with the IKon? I have it on my 3GX but it is information only.

Here is my recent flight with the IKon. Not happy with the tail. Not blaming the IKon yet. The tail is stable and although the video doesn't show it clearly when you here me say I just lost the tail it was dead stick, wouldn't do anything. Thank goodness I took up flying planes 3 weeks ago because my Heli turned facing me and I didn't panic. Looks like I bounced it on my landing but it actually didn't touch the ground.

Going to try a newer DS520 before anything else. The one on this bird has seen the ground quite a few times and has its 2nd gear set in it.

Ken

HK500 with IKon - YouTube
 
Glad you got it fixed one thing to try take the elevator stick pull back on it then let it go on its own while you are in the air. If your cyclic is unstable that will usually cause it to oscillate.

For the nano-techs I see people complain about them but its usually from people who by a 35C battery that should have purchased a 65C and then complain when it puffs. I have only rarely had a problem with nano-techs. The one problem I did have was a low cell. So one thing to do which I always forget to do is measure each individual cell BEFORE you charge them. If one is low don't think that charging it will fix it send it back. That cell may get "fixed" but will always be droopy.
I haven't tried the A-specs yet my guess is they are no different then the normal nano-techs. The only difference is they get gold plated balance connectors and maybe tested slightly better after production but that's a big maybe. I have yet to see any independent party test the A-specs and confirm they are actually better.

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Westy said:
cool ... I have been reading up on them for the last half hour ..... and they have problems with them .... reading false RPM reading s... like 6000 to 8000RPM (over 4000 RPM out)..... they are saying you can over come it by reseting the module after spool up .... but kind of defeats the acuracy claim and would be a pain to remember to do that.... must be an issue when large draw is needed to start the motor running.
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I run one and dont have any problem with accuracy. If it's reading that high of number its more likely the person didnt set the poles and gear ratio up correctly in the tx menu. The signal coming from the motor is raw data a pulse for everytime it swings by a magnet. So what comes from the motor will be in the 100K rpm range. The TX take that number divides it by the number of poles which if you have a 10 pole motor will get you in the 10K rpm range. This is the engine RPM not the head spead. To get head speed you need to enter your gear ratio. Which is just the main gear/pinion. So the TX takes the 10k and divides it by the gear ration say 9.33:1 which gives 1071 RPMs. Pretty easy thing to do nothing fancy going on here.
 
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