Cases A new charger build

murankar

Staff member
Okay I am going to be starting the assembly of my charging system below is the proposed parts list. As I start to get them I will mark them off the list so I and everone esle can see how this is going to go. Do not expect this to be done by christmas, looking more like spring.


1 Case
2 PUS,s (GOT 2, want one more for a 30V system)
4 Switches (later will need 2 more)
3 Potentiameters
3 Feet red silicone 10g wire
3 Feet Black silicone 10g wire
3 Feet of 12 to 14 gauge wire (for shorting out pins and connecting switches pots and fans)
12 4mm bullets able to handle lots of amps
Shrink tube for smaller guage wire
Maybe some lights
Deck lid
Piano hinge
screws
brackets
PL6 Charger

I had an Idea for making a power rail out of some copper or some kind of distribution system that would allow for a drop upgrade. not sure if this is a good idea. As I think about it I will deceid. Its not a must have but I think it could tidy up the wire mess some.

I think that wraps up the list for now.
 
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Tony

Staff member
Sounds like it's going to be a good build. Can't wait to see it come together. Need to get mine back out and make sure it works.
 

murankar

Staff member
Hey there mr acrylic, how difficult would it be to use such a material for a build like this? I think it would look cool if I can keep it clean inside!
 

Tony

Staff member
To build a box? Pretty easy actually. Just have to learn how to weld two pieces together and not get air bubbles in it. But, yeah, it would be pretty easy.
 

murankar

Staff member
Given your setup and what you know, if I was to leave room for a third how big of a box would be needed for something like this? I am also solving the securing of the item. I am thinking raised sides with holes cut to run Velcro across the top of the items. Not sure about the PL6. Maybe mount on the lid?
 

murankar

Staff member
I got that same case for my 120sr. Its just buried right now in the garage and its cold outside and I am a wuss in the cold.

- - - Updated - - -

I also have to account for the PL6 which I dont have the dimensions for as of yet but can get them easy off of progressive rc.
 

murankar

Staff member
The case is always the hard part. It has to look good as well as be function.

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cml001

Well-Known Member
.... Gotta re-do the plexi on mine.. & install fans.. Maybe LEDs... But I works flawlessly... Cutting & drilling the Plex is definitely a "skilled" job. I also would like to mount the charger itself to the lid as opposed to just laying atop the plexi... Can't future that one out.
 

murankar

Staff member
First off his thick is your plexy? I was considering 1/4 inch.

Next for the mounting of the charger I was thinking of mounting through existing assembling holes, if possible. My other idea is to make four holes in the base plate of the charger and screwing it to the deck and reassembling the charger to the base. Another option is industrial heavy duty Velcro on the base of the charger. This method would not be ideal I think.

How this plays out is entirely based on how the shell of the charger is assembled.

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murankar

Staff member
Well finally did some measuring for the case. right now i am looking at about 15x15 wide and long and about 6 inches deep. I would have a 4 inch deep bottom with a 2 inch deep lid. So now to rough sketch the case. I am leaning towards 3/8 plywood for most of the build. TO secure the PSUs and charger I am leaning towards heavy duty velcro. the deck lid I am thinking is going to be smoke color plexy or acrylic. I found a place that sells custom cut sheets and for what I am looking at it would be around $25 give or take after shipping. All I would have to cut is the air vents and access to the charger along with slots or holes for cables to pass through. this thing is going to be a tad pricy for what I would like the finished product to be. I think its going to start basic and then add to the functionality of it as I go.

as for hardware I have started a wish list at Progressive rc. They seem to have everything I need minus the 4mm bullets for the power output blades on the PSU. Its going to near $100 just for the bits and pieces from them. Now that I have a good idea of what I am going to need I can now start sourcing from other locations to see what I can find cheaper. So for now its time to figure out how much wood would be needed and then go from there.

One thing that has me thinking is the modular series charger and balance boards at PRC. Each board handles two pack so I would need two full sets of the charging boards. They are expensive but have some nice features to them. Any how that's where I am at for the moment. For the acrylic I want to cut a 1/2 in deeb groove just above the height of the charger so I can slide the charging deck in and out. this will need some solving on one side to keep it looking clean but able to be locked in. I want to be able to unlock it, slide it out so I can access the stuff below. I want to avoid using the piano hinge for an access area.
 

murankar

Staff member
Last night I was up pretty late due to working night shift tonight. So what was the out come?

I have changed my layout for inside the case which will house both the PSUs and charger, my new foot print is 13x11x7 inches with a 4 inch lower half and a 3 inch deep lid. By doing this I was able to decrease the amount of ply wood needed for the build.

For the deck lid I found a web site that will custom cut acrylic to the size I need. They have a smoke grey translucent style I like. For a piece that is 14x12x3/8 is just under $12 USD.

Mounting the hardware will be done via Velcro cloth which is the loop side and the hook part will be stuck to the hardware. I think this was about $12 USD for a 13x11 custom cut piece. I will attach that with LockTight super strength spray glue. I will lay this in the lid and bottom of the case.

For the buttons I found some lighted bezel ring metal push buttons. These are similar to your computer tower on off button that clicks when you push it in. I am thinking of 3 switchs for the stuff after the main power. So the case fan and one for each PSU. For the main power I want to add another switch same style and color that can handle 120v. As I was typing this I think I may want a switch to turn on the charger also. I think by doing this it will not send the instant power to the charger on power up. It would have to be done in a certain order to turn on the case; main, PSU then charger.

Cooling I am thinking of 1 120mm 24v ATX cooler master fan. I think that will move enough heat to keep things happy. Not sure if I want a lighted fan or basic. For now basic will do at about $15 USD at newegg.com

Binding posts. I went to hobbyking and started a wish list last night. I have added a bunch of bits and bobs to it. Things like binding posts, wire and some EC5 connectors. I am thinking of soldering the wire to the PSUs. Then run bullets from there. I will use one bullet for the series connection. Then I will need to figure out his I want to run a 12v side and a 24v side. One thing I found is that you can ground out a pin on each PSU to each other and you can load balance the PSUs. The plus is that I can run all the 12v stuff off of one PSU and not tax that one PSU to much.

At this time I think the voltage adjustment part will be put on hold. Its not really needed but is a nice to have. I am still going to plan on it in the future.

Cable management is still being thought of. I want some kind of management to keep air flow optimized. I am thinking of doing Velcro wire wraps. This will allow the cables to be stuck to the floor of the case. Another idea is some PVC tubing that is small in diameter and can be strapped into place with screws and metal straps. The advantage to this is the wires will be free flowing in the case, keep things clean looking and gives me a place to add LED lights in the future.

I have started up an Adobe Illustrator file that will assist with layout. I am looking at where to mount all the switches and external power stuff. Things like a 5v USB jack, 12v posts of my thunder ac6 charger and any other stuff I may need.

What's left at this point is solidifying wood for the case or use a prefabricated case. The pots for voltage. Running the main power hook up. Why is this an issue, well I am not sure if I want unfilled holes in the case. If I use the same hook up as the PSU I think I may over load the socket and melt it. So right now its on the back burner at the moment. I could run two sockets on the out side of the case and use a "Y" split power cord on the outside.


Update later meeting time.

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Tony

Staff member
Yes. As long as the leads are ONLY hooked up to a single PSU. I have both 12 and 24 on my setup.
 

murankar

Staff member
I was thinking of splitting the 12v load between the two PSUs along with using the load balancing if the PSU.

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vimy

Member
It's only a suggestion, but at least something to consider.

Why not have leads of around 2 metres (sorry chaps, I don't do Imperial) in length so you can charge your batteries away from the main charger setup?

I spoke to the technical specialist from Revolectrix and 2 metres is fine, it doesn't affect the performance of the charger.

That way, if your batteries ever turn themselves into self immolating, incendiary devices, they won't take out an expensive charger as well.

I can't help but cringe, when I see batteries being charged on the charger deck, particularly those with a flat case type arrangement.

I do not trust LiPo cells at all, having seen the photographic results of some fires experienced by other RC modelers. The end is never a pretty or a happy one.
 

Tony

Staff member
2 meters is right about 6 feet, and that is a LOT of wire lol. But true, if you are using 10g or larger, it should be fine. And I do get what you are saying, lipo's can go up without warning. Definitely something to think about.
 
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