450 X3 trouble shooting time

murankar

murankar

Staff member
Thing is the black and yellow wires soldered just fine. No issues at all. I will look and see if scraping the wires work, but some how I don't think it will. I think the kinking may have led to this. If I had been on my game I would have caught this.


--------------------

Nope scraping the wire did not help. The solder was going dry so I cleaned it up and shut down the iron. For what ever reason this wire does not want to take solder.
 
Last edited:
Tony

Tony

Staff member
Happens to all of us bro. And the only thing kinking will do is either break the wire or cause a place for egress to enter or ingress to escape. Nothing that will cause these kind of temps though.
 
murankar

murankar

Staff member
Just sent scorpion an email to tech support. Lets see what that nets me. I sent them the graph output and the esc settings screen prints.
 
murankar

murankar

Staff member
Tony Tseung just got back in touch with me though facebook. I am going to be getting an RMA number and RMA return form.
 
Smoggie

Smoggie

Well-Known Member
Uri,

Sorry that you are still having trouble. for what it's worth the Castle Governor usually works well enough. I've used a few Castles in governor mode and other than having to set gain to low they work ok.

As for the motor wires. You should never cut back the wires on a brushless motor*. The wires are extensions of the winding wire inside the motor and as such they are coated with an incredibly tough high temperature lacquer which makes soldering impossible. The very end of the wires are stripped of lacquer in the factory using some sort of solvent, so you can solder to that part. But if you cut that factory prepared part off you have BIG problems.

Scraping the lacquer off is all but impossible on multi strand windings because each strand is about as thick as a hair, so removing all the lacquer from every strand without breaking the strands just isn't going to happen. There is a trick using an Aspirin tablet that is reputed to work. You place the wire end on an Aspirin tablet and heat with a soldering iron. The Aspirin releases a very nasty acid that burns off the lacquer, But you must do this in a well ventilated area as the fumes are very toxic.

*The exception is hand wound motors that use just one or two very thick winding wires rather than multi strand windings found in most mass produced motors. The thick single wire can relatively easily be scraped free of it's lacquer.

PS.. This might be a good subject to cover somewhere in a general guide to brushless motors because I've lost count of how many times motors have been ruined when the leads have been trimmed. Most of us have made the mistake once, myself included.
 
Last edited:
murankar

murankar

Staff member
Thanks for the info. Next tim trim the ESC side.. Well here is the email reply. Looks like I am buying a new motor and esc.

Hi Matthias

Thanks for your email and supported in our products. This is Tony from Scorpion, nice to meet you and hope you are doing well.
Seems the over heat shutdown because the 3 phases not balance loading, we scrape out the paint on the wire when we solder. You can try to resolder the bullet connect again with this procedue.
Because this is human error that is not cover in our warranty. You can send it back to us for repair and we will bill on you for the repair cost(shipping cost is not included) and the cost is not more than 50% of MSRP. If you want to get a new one I like to offer you 50% off(shipping cost not included) can have a brand new product with same model after you send the one to us. Please let me know you like to consider this option?

If you have any further question, please do not hesitate to let me know.
Thank you.

Warm Regards
Tony | Scorpion
Customer Support Officer
Scorpion Power System Limited
URL: www.scorpionsystem.com
Email: ps4@spihk.com
 
murankar

murankar

Staff member
This should be in a generalized how-to since all disciplines (for the most part) use brushless out runners.
 
Smoggie

Smoggie

Well-Known Member
You could try the Aspirin trick, it's certainly worth a go. I've never tried it myself but others tell me it works. just watch out for the fumes.

 
Last edited by a moderator:
murankar

murankar

Staff member
Ill save that for later when I am in a more adequate environment. Right now I think just getting the new components will be the easiest solution. Maybe when I get home I'll try that trick.
 
murankar

murankar

Staff member
Yes I will try this after I get home. I dont think my neighbors here will enjoy the smell of that, neither will I for that matter.
 
Tony

Tony

Staff member
IT's a very mild acid, Acetylsalicylic Acid to be more specific. Only slightly soluble in water and other acids like stomach acid. I have yet to find out what gases are put off when heating it though.

IMO, you are dealing with lacquer. Acetone, paint thinner or paint remover will work just as well and IMO, leave a cleaner finish.
 
murankar

murankar

Staff member
If that is true then I could try the liquid cleaners a lot easier. Not sure which would be the best to start with. I think the Acetone would be the easiest to use. I am not sure if finger nail polish would be strong enough.


SO if this does work I still have an issue that needs addressed. According to the email I had pour balance on the 3 phases which resulted in the thermal build up. This tells me that I have high resistance in one or more of the wires. With the charring I saw on the red lead in the motor leads me to believe that the red lead is faulty.
 
Last edited:
Tony

Tony

Staff member
Take the motor apart and look at the windings. If you see any of them discolored or damaged, then you had a short.
 
murankar

murankar

Staff member
There is charring is located on the wires where the red shielding ends. I have a strong feeling the motor is done.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Top Bottom