450 Trex Pro V2 main shaft lower bearing casing stuck in holder.

B

Bruno

Member
Trying to replace both main shaft bearings without removing the holders.
Success with upper bearing.
Lower bearing separated from it's casing which is stuck solid to the holder. :fatigue:
I have yet to heat the holder and try to force it out.
Any other suggestions without removing the holder?
Thanks.
 
coolgabsi

coolgabsi

Super Mod & DEAL KING!
Don't heat too much.. Those bearing blocks Are soft metal. If heat is required, be careful..

The bearing block on the bottom should be upside down right? Can you stick a main shaft on the inner race and tap it down? I know not wanting to take the thing apart for bearing change. Tapping has worked sometimes for me. What have you tried as yet.

Or remove the upper bearing block, put a little bigger dowel on it, and tap it out... Lol

I don't think I remember any other way. Heat.. I would try to stay away from as when you hear and tap, you risk warping the block
 
Tony

Tony

Staff member
If the bearing came apart, you have no choice but to remove it. It's only 6 screws.

Heat the oven up to 350ºF and stick it in there for 10 minutes. With oven mitts, grab it and tap the race out. You should be able to just tap the block on the counter and it should fall out.
 
B

Bruno

Member
Tony said:
If the bearing came apart, you have no choice but to remove it. It's only 6 screws.

Heat the oven up to 350ºF and stick it in there for 10 minutes. With oven mitts, grab it and tap the race out. You should be able to just tap the block on the counter and it should fall out.
Click to expand...

Yea, it's just that I have servo wires CAd & zip tied to the block not to mention the servos screwed to the block. Gotta consider what may be the most time efficient. I think I will try to heat it with a soldering iron and then if that does not work I will have little choice but to remove the block.

I will take into consideration Gaba's comment about block warpage. That would not be good. Has that actually happened..at what Temp.?
 
Tony

Tony

Staff member
You would start to deform it at about 450ºF, maybe a little hotter. Just think about the time you have invested now, and how much you could do in the future. IMO it would be faster to just take it out and get that race out of there.
 
B

Bruno

Member
Tony said:
You would start to deform it at about 450ºF, maybe a little hotter. Just think about the time you have invested now, and how much you could do in the future. IMO it would be faster to just take it out and get that race out of there.
Click to expand...

True. I will post outcome.
 
B

Bruno

Member
I removed the lower bearing holder within 15 minutes. I baked the part in the oven at 350 for 10 minutes and then tapped it with acrylic hammer. The race did move. I repeated these steps 4 times and the race moved out a little each time. I started using a small metal hammer and this started distorting the holder.
Ordered two off Ebay. Should be here Saturday from NYC.
Learned the root of one blade was chopped pretty bad. Trashed.
Learned the ball link for the tail slider was nearly unscrewed from the rudder rod. Centered the ball links securely on either end of the rod and centered the slider.
Glad I have my 450 sport and a few other Helis to float in the air until I fix the pro.
Seems a bit too much of a task to simply replace the bearings.
I plan to use blue thread lock to hold the bearings in place for fear that the green thread lock will once again create this cemented in bearing.
 
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Tony

Tony

Staff member
Wow, I would not have thought, and didn't think that 350º would make the metal that weak. Guess that shows just how crappy that stuff is on these clones. Hope you get it back in the air soon.
 
B

Bruno

Member
Tony said:
Wow, I would not have thought, and didn't think that 350º would make the metal that weak. Guess that shows just how crappy that stuff is on these clones. Hope you get it back in the air soon.
Click to expand...

It's not a clone. The part is an aluminum allow and too soft for repeated hammering.
I should have taken it out to begin with, heated it and pushed the entire bearing out as a whole.

Curious what the difference between bearing holder stock numbers H45027T and H45027A is.
 
Tony

Tony

Staff member
Ah my bad. Guess it's just a soft alloy. And I searched those two part numbers and could only find the H45027A, Nothing came up on the "T".
 
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