700 Trex 700X tail gear victim
- Thread starter fran11784
- Start date
Smoggie
Well-Known Member
You might try the new 'beefed-up' tail case. Stripping has been blamed on the case flexing and allowing the mesh to open up. Part number for the new case set is #H70T013XX
Also the gears sometimes need shimming to get a good tight mesh, although the new case seems to be better in this respect.
Also the gears sometimes need shimming to get a good tight mesh, although the new case seems to be better in this respect.
fran11784
Goblin 380 Supporter
Yeah I seen the tail case. Mine is not the updated one but I don't think I need the tail case for my type of flying. I will tell you it was the slightest little touch of the tail blades. Didn't even mark the blades. I will check the mesh and one other thing may have saved this. I don't have the new "raked" landing gear on cause I don't like the look but I think I'm going to put them on now.
T
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Smoggie
Well-Known Member
If it was caused by the tail blades brushing the ground then yes, the raked landing gear is 100% the way to go.
If you go with the red gears be aware that there are two different ratios. You have the new 23t gear and the standard 22t gear both of which now come in red plastic. The 23t gives a lower RPM tail which is best suited to high headspeeds, the 23t gear has to be used with the new 102t auto gear.
If you go with the red gears be aware that there are two different ratios. You have the new 23t gear and the standard 22t gear both of which now come in red plastic. The 23t gives a lower RPM tail which is best suited to high headspeeds, the 23t gear has to be used with the new 102t auto gear.
Dennis H
Member
Yes, I am interested as well as a few others I am sure who would like to know how they work out for you.
Take Care,
Dennis
Smoggie
Well-Known Member
That will be fine. I'm using the new tail box in mine but with the old black gears. the black gears have to be modified slightly to fit the new box but that's just a 5 minute job.
On the original tail box you usually should to put a 0.2-0.3mm shim behind the front TT gear to get the mesh correct. The new tail box is better and usually doesnt need a shim.
On the original tail box you usually should to put a 0.2-0.3mm shim behind the front TT gear to get the mesh correct. The new tail box is better and usually doesnt need a shim.
Heliman450
Well-Known Member
Hi all, a bit late on this item but after a while with my 700X, here are a couple of things.........
1. Both my 700X and 550E show a tendency to 'drop' their tails when in a stable hover (the 550E has a 600-sized tail as per Steve's earlier suggestion to me). This doesn't matter too much when one's style is to zoom around but it does come into play when landing. My solution was to fit an extended set of skids so that they contact the ground before the tail fin. Although the standard landing gear leaves the tail sitting high above the ground, they don't prevent the tail coming in a bit too close to the deck when landing. Another advantage is that the 550 sits correctly with or without the battery. It really did get on my nerves before making the change as when removing the battery the heli almost always nearly fell off my bench or dropped the tail fin on the dining room table.
2. Despite painstakingly levelling the swashplate, the tendency is still there to 'drop' the tail. I'm working on adding a couple more points to the elevator servo for my 550 to lift the tail. It isn't perfect yet, but it's getting better. As I have custom servo arms on the 700X, I've already eliminated it to my satisfaction but I still have the option to do a couple of points electronically via the B.D. Axon software if I feel the need.
Bye for now.
1. Both my 700X and 550E show a tendency to 'drop' their tails when in a stable hover (the 550E has a 600-sized tail as per Steve's earlier suggestion to me). This doesn't matter too much when one's style is to zoom around but it does come into play when landing. My solution was to fit an extended set of skids so that they contact the ground before the tail fin. Although the standard landing gear leaves the tail sitting high above the ground, they don't prevent the tail coming in a bit too close to the deck when landing. Another advantage is that the 550 sits correctly with or without the battery. It really did get on my nerves before making the change as when removing the battery the heli almost always nearly fell off my bench or dropped the tail fin on the dining room table.
2. Despite painstakingly levelling the swashplate, the tendency is still there to 'drop' the tail. I'm working on adding a couple more points to the elevator servo for my 550 to lift the tail. It isn't perfect yet, but it's getting better. As I have custom servo arms on the 700X, I've already eliminated it to my satisfaction but I still have the option to do a couple of points electronically via the B.D. Axon software if I feel the need.
Bye for now.
Smoggie
Well-Known Member
Phil,
The tail shouldn't drop. If the swash is level the first thing i'd look at is balance. The 550 in particular tends to be tail heavy, more so if it's been stretched with the longer 600 boom. It must balance at the main shaft, if it's tail heavy move the battery forward, or even add nose weight. You should never have to raise the elevator servo arm, that's just masking some other problems and will screw things up once you get to more advanced flying. If it still drifts back after levelling the swash and getting balance correct then it may be head gain too low.
The tail shouldn't drop. If the swash is level the first thing i'd look at is balance. The 550 in particular tends to be tail heavy, more so if it's been stretched with the longer 600 boom. It must balance at the main shaft, if it's tail heavy move the battery forward, or even add nose weight. You should never have to raise the elevator servo arm, that's just masking some other problems and will screw things up once you get to more advanced flying. If it still drifts back after levelling the swash and getting balance correct then it may be head gain too low.
Heliman450
Well-Known Member
Hi Steve, thanks for the feedback. I'll try some weight before touching the elevator setting. I have two different types of batteries and have already experimented with different positions. It didn't work despite having them well forward and even getting a custom tray made to hold it better.
Currently, I have 60% head gain. What do you suggest? I can't think of any other problems other than the tail being too heavy. What were you thinking of?
Currently, I have 60% head gain. What do you suggest? I can't think of any other problems other than the tail being too heavy. What were you thinking of?
Smoggie
Well-Known Member
Between swash levelling, balancing and head/cyclic gain you should get it nailed. Head/cyclic gain varies model to model and setup to setup so you can only really find the optimum setting by experimentation. Just try making increases, if you go too far you get nodding or wobble/shake that you often see most on the skids.
It's really just like setting the tail gain, too low means hold is 'loose' and the heli drifts out of position, too high leads to over-compensation and oscillation.
It's really just like setting the tail gain, too low means hold is 'loose' and the heli drifts out of position, too high leads to over-compensation and oscillation.
Heliman450
Well-Known Member
Cheers Steve, next step will be the adjustments before adding any weight.
The change to the skids has really worked well for any occasion where I'm not getting a perfect approach to the landing and the tail fin stays well away from the ground. I can't remember when I last touched the tail fin on the ground.
The change to the skids has really worked well for any occasion where I'm not getting a perfect approach to the landing and the tail fin stays well away from the ground. I can't remember when I last touched the tail fin on the ground.