500 Trex 500 feedback

So put yourself in my shoes I received a used but like brand new T-Rex 500 with a speed canopy he says it's only been hovered a couple times and never flown really hard. It currently has the 3gx installed in it and I'll be removing that and putting in the ikon2. With that said is it best to disassemble the head of the swashplate and basically start setup from the beginning or should I install the new gyro begin the setup with the gyro and see how it does what would you do.
 

Tony

Staff member
You need to check every screw, bearing and shaft on that helicopter and make sure they have thread lock on them, they spin free and are lubed and are straight, respectively.
 

Smoggie

Well-Known Member
I've bought a few helis in similar 'built but never/hardly flown' condition.

What i do is have a really good close look over the heli. If everything is correctly assembled and properly set up, all the wiring is neat and tidy etc. then I tend to give the builder the benefit of the doubt. I'd probably still do a random check of a few screws for Loctite especially the critical ones such as the swash balls and the like, maybe also check that the blade grip bearings were all assembled correctly. But if those few things looked ok i'd call it good and go fly.

On the other hand if you find things that dont inspire confidence then it's strip-down time.

So far this has worked for me but there is no right or wrong answer, it's your call at the end of the day.
 
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trainrider06

Active Member
Yup I rarely trust someone else's, work! Heck I can't trust my own....I forget to do crap all the time!
I'll usually do as Steve suggests, depending on the condition if it looks well taken care of, but I most times just start from scratch and tear it completely down just to get familure with the heli if I haven't owned that particular heli. I have a certain way I like my electrics to be mounted (as little shown as possible) I just prefer a cleaner looking heli, and usually sleeve the wires, so some tearing down the heli is required for that. At the very least get a good bearing lube and go over all the bearings, get some gear lube for gears. For sure check critical point fasteners like head blocks, servo balls, tail case, and blade grips of tail and head. Lube the tail points also...just a drop will do on everything. Put a drop in motor bearing also! Check motor to pinion clearance, and smoothness of torque tube by spinning the head around.
 
Yup I rarely trust someone else's, work! Heck I can't trust my own....I forget to do crap all the time!
I'll usually do as Steve suggests, depending on the condition if it looks well taken care of, but I most times just start from scratch and tear it completely down just to get familure with the heli if I haven't owned that particular heli. I have a certain way I like my electrics to be mounted (as little shown as possible) I just prefer a cleaner looking heli, and usually sleeve the wires, so some tearing down the heli is required for that. At the very least get a good bearing lube and go over all the bearings, get some gear lube for gears. For sure check critical point fasteners like head blocks, servo balls, tail case, and blade grips of tail and head. Lube the tail points also...just a drop will do on everything. Put a drop in motor bearing also! Check motor to pinion clearance, and smoothness of torque tube by spinning the head around.

Some good info there. What is everybody using for lube/grease
 

murankar

Staff member
It seems that all used helis have hardly been flown or never been flown hard or never been crashed. Its always best to tear it down and rebuild it. Inspect all the bearings and mechanical stuff. Oil and grease the bearings and make sure to put a 2 or three drops of oil on the main shaft and tail shaft.
 

Smoggie

Well-Known Member
What kind of oil, same kind of lube i use on my AR15? :D
For the main shaft and tail shaft?.. pretty much anything to be honest. i have a bottle of Scorpion motor oil that I often use mainly because it has a thin applicator nozzle that gets into tight spaces, but a squirt of WD40 will do fine too. For bearings I have a big tub of PTFE grease that I use for my bikes. For plastic parts a silicon based grease works good.
 

murankar

Staff member
White lith works just fine also for the metal to metal parts. I use Epic oil or Tri-flow for the bearings and a generic synthetic silicone grease for the thrust bearings. For mt gear on gear parts I use 3 in 1 dry lube. That stuff has to be shaken before every use and let to dry for about 3 hours.
 
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trainrider06

Active Member
Tri flow, Reel butter (sold in sporting goods stores, its for fishing reels, doesn't harm plastic or anything) For gears main, tail TT gears and such that are plastic, I am liking this stuff called "Dry flow" extreme. It don't slop all over everything and stays on. Kinda expensive (small bottle with brush $17.00, but a little goes a long way)
 
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