Time to upgrade

Tony

Staff member
The Z offset is only for the first layer. What is your layer height in your slicer? That will be layers 2 to however many for the print. The z offset will do nothing for any layer after the first one.

I was thinking my nozzle as well, but it hit me, even if it is worn, you just adjust the offset and it's golden again. And unless you have been printing carbon based filament, the nozzle is likely fine.

For me, I use a 0.2mm layer height (standard) for most prints unless I just need to pump out the test piece, or I need something super accurate.
 

bigone5500

Well-Known Member
.2mm layer height. I think at this point I will start over as if I just installed the CR Touch and flashed the firmware. Maybe my bed is so out on the front that it can't compensate?
 

Tony

Staff member
That would be a pretty large change, but I guess it is possible. At least worth a try because mine is awesome! (ahem, the touch screen makes it SOOO easy lol, but not sure if you can install on the 5)... lol
 

bigone5500

Well-Known Member
Ok. I'm back to this printer. I have had this idea for some time but the arms I made in the beginning got me to thinking that they are too much weight for the new stepper board. So I didn't put them on.

Now I have some questions to refresh my brain. When initially setting up a BL Touch, do I need to do the paper gap setting? Do I crank down on the adjustment knobs on the bed? In my mind, the bed needs to be as close as it can get before running the printer. But then again, wouldn't that defeat the purpose of the BL Touch?
 

Tony

Staff member
It doesn't really matter, but I like to have the bed somewhat level and I set a G28 (I think) after G29 (again, I think) so it checks 9 points on the bed. Basically the G29 if I have this right homes all axis, then G28 runs to do a self level. If it's close, then that is that much that Z doesn't have to offset while printing which can cause issues in the print. So I would either do the paper under the nozzle trick or if your base is pretty level, just use spacers to lock it down.

For mine, I don't lock it down at 3 points. The back left is where the wires come in and I have a cable chain that has a base that mounts to that point. I lock down that corner and then level the rest of the bed the best I can. If you have a flat base under the bed, you can just make equal spacers and lock it down that way so it doesn't move. Mine is not locked down on the front, and yes, I hit the wheels and really need to redo my manual leveling.
 

LooseNut

Active Member
I prefer my bed level to start, it keeps thing squared up while printing. The picture below is my CR-10. I've installed the Silicone Spacers which allow shift of the plate when heated and locked the wheels down with M4 wing nuts so I don't have to tinker with it, or worry about bumping them.

The G28 set to home and the G29 runs the leveling. If you want to run your bed leveling once while doing multiple prints (not shutting down between prints), then you can add "M420 S1 Z10" after the G28 and it will recall the mesh and fade out at 10mm.

Most folks use the 10mm, but I set my Z to 5 since my bed is pretty level. The rest of the print "Squareness" will depend on how well you machine is trammed. I'm pretty picky with mine because I run a lot of prototypes for work and they need to closely represent the final part.

Here's a cool thing, you can use your digital pitch gage to check your tram. Zero it on the frame and check the bed and gantry. You can check all the sections of frame and compare them for square and shim or tweak as needed. I've seen on YT where folks use an App on their phone, but I'm not that guy, phones are for talking, not tramming.



1664028224074.jpeg
 

bigone5500

Well-Known Member
The new printer came in today. And man is it big. Almost twice as big. I have to build a stand for it now. My desk is too small.

20220930_142725.jpg
 

bigone5500

Well-Known Member
So the SD card it came with has some files to print. I had no idea what they were so I chose the first one called tuzi. This is what a tuzi is...

20221001_205612.jpg
 

bigone5500

Well-Known Member
I found a used ender 5 v.1.1.4 board on ebay and won it for $8.50. I'll turn it back to stock and remove the CR Touch. If all goes well I'll have a silent mainboard for sale.
 

bigone5500

Well-Known Member
I got the used mainboard in today. It's for an ender 3 pro. I ended up having to repin all steppers. I got it to auto home. Now to level the bed and try a print.
 

Tony

Staff member
For that first print, very mild stringing, was definitely a course print with large layer heights, but looks really good for a first setup print!
 
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