450 Tarot 450 Pro FBL Head Disassembly/Assembly Questions (with pics)

[cpo]

Hello everyone.

I am starting to work on the assembly of my Tarot 450 Pro V2, which of course requires some disassembly. Funny how that works.

I am starting with the head, and taking it apart to clean, locktite, lube, etc.

I have it almost completely disassembled, but I have some questions.

The feathering shaft is pretty snug (not budging a bit) after the removal of the blade grips. I removed the collars, and the only thing left to get to is the rubber bushing on each side. The shaft does spin, shift, or anything.

1. My first question is, should I leave it alone, or should I continue taking it apart.

2. How do I get it apart from here? The rubber bushings are ready falling out (seem pressed in). I am not sure what is inside of that unit that it would be touching besides the rubber bushings. I just don't want to force anything without getting help first.




Next.

I have removed the screws and washers from the Upper Control Arms and the Radius Arms. The bearings are still in there.

3. Should I remove these bearings to clean/lube or leave them alone?

4. How would I remove them and separate the parts?

I can't seem to see how the radius arm separates from the control arm, even after the screws are removed.



One last question...

5. Should I grease all of these bearings I am finding?

Thanks for the help!

I will have a video to post for the build series as soon as I get it completely disassembled and then cleaned up and reassembled.

 

[coolgabsi]

Yes grease the bearings, be careful not to get any oil on the screws. Be careful on putting it back together.. The thrust bearing : 3part bearing has a outside one and inside one. The bigger ID is inside the smaller iD is outer The feathering shaft is just right on those rubber dampeners. Dorms hurt if you take it all out.. New kit, dampeners are probably ok, but you wanna periodically check the rubber dampeners just to make sure it's not dying ... But it's like not until 100 flights or crashes whatever comes first lol ;D

And you can leave the radius arm alone. It's probably ok. Just when putting it back don't let blue loctite get in the small bearings

You doing great !!

Fly safe!! have fun!

 

[cpo]

Thanks coolgabsi.

So if I did want to take out the feathering shaft...it it a matter of tapping it out with a rubber mallet or something? I probably won't bother this go-round...but curious now.

 

[coolgabsi]

Tapping that shaft is a bit iffy. Marius tried that on a bigger bird and it went out of round.

Try to pop it out however you can with hand.

Rubber dampeners can come out with the feathering shaft. And then you can place them back in... By using some thin lubricating oil on it .. To make it slide in the rubber dampeners a bit easier . But regardless it's ok just there too. When it gets loaded after a bunch of flights that will get easier to take out and replace if needed

Fly safe!! have fun!

 

[Derek]

Yeah, I've never had to tap out my feathering shaft. Just give solid pressure from your hand...should slide out.

 

[cpo]

I thought for sure this would be easy to search for...but I haven't been able to find what I am needing to see. I understand how to grease and install the thrust bearings (the ones that separate into the inner/outer/center components), but what I am having trouble finding is how to handle the other shielded bearings. I don't have a bearing packer. What should I do with these guys? Here's a pic of one of them still in the blade grip, so we're clear on what I am talking about:



- - - Updated - - -

Dang...can't wait until I can edit.

I also meant to add that these come out pretty easily, with slight pressure. I believe I have read somewhere in Internet-land that some people put a little thread locker on the outside of them before pressing them back in to lock them in place. Is that right? Is that even necessary?

 

[Lee]

Just leave the sealed bearings. You only need to grease the thrust bearings as you rightly said. Shielded bearings are shielded to keep the grease in and the dirt out. I have never tried to grease radial bearings unless they were not shielded.

 

[coolgabsi]

Like lee said


And no don't put anything there to seat it till you see a play. Which I know tarot does good machining so you won't.

Sometimes people put wik green loctite on these bearings. I have never needed it and once it's seated with green , it's not coming out EVER lol. You don't want that. If no play.. Leave it alone. Just means great machine job and the feathering shaft screws and the shims will keep it locked in there

Fly safe!! have fun!

 

[cpo]

Thanks everyone!

 

[murankar]

My Protos Mini's feathering shaft is real stiff in the head, very hard to slide out. To help ease the shaft out I put some silicone grease on the end that was going through the head block. When I reassembled the head block I re coated the bushings with more grease. This will help protect the bushings and make getting the shaft out a lot more easier.

 

[cpo]

I just finished the head assembly, and I did get the feathering shaft out. I used a little force and it finally budged. I just needed some confirmation that I was on the right track. It's all lubed and back together now...I'll post a video in the next day or so, and I hope you guys can check my work before I move on to the next step. Thanks again for all of the help. This site/forum is awesome!

 

[Westy]

cant wait to see the Vid!
Cheers
Westy

 

[cpo]

Okay, gang. The video of the head disassembly/reassembly is done. Please take a look. Let me know if everything looks okay. I am glad I decided to video this process, because there are just a few subtle differences from the Align version. Hopefully this helps someone else who is about to tackle this for this first time.

Please, please, please, let me know if you see something that is WRONG so I can fix it. I realize there may be differencing of opinion on lubing methods, etc, but I am more concerned with something that is just messed up or unsafe. : )

Thanks!

[video=youtube_share;lB7Qd_P-qww]http://youtu.be/lB7Qd_P-qww[/video]

 

[Tony]

being 30 minutes long and me being on a mobile network at the base, I will watch this when I get home if I can. Then I will give you my opinions as I'm watching it. And as long as there is some kind of lube on the bearings and such, you should be fine. Just dont' over lube them or it makes a horrible mess lol. Ask me how I know lmao. Nothing worse than grease slinging down the blades lmao.

 

[cpo]

being 30 minutes long and me being on a mobile network at the base, I will watch this when I get home if I can. Then I will give you my opinions as I'm watching it. And as long as there is some kind of lube on the bearings and such, you should be fine. Just dont' over lube them or it makes a horrible mess lol. Ask me how I know lmao. Nothing worse than grease slinging down the blades lmao.

Totally understand! : )

 

[Tony]

Alright, watching it now and I'm just going to type as I see things.

6:30, Thanks for the shout out. And just an FYI, they are called Dampers if you go to order them. As for the tape, that is a great idea. I just use a towel myself. Just a note about the brake cleaner that wasn't mentioned at 8:30, and that is to use it in a well ventelated area. 8:40, I would always clean the bearings, but leaving the thick grease in there is just fine. Lots of people do it that way. I'm just picky lol.

before putting the head back together, I would clean everything including the bolts and the inside of the feathering shaft. You may have said you were going to do that, and I may have missed it. Was eating cereal.

Pet Peeve, Locktite is a brand name, it's thread lock

make sure to never over tighten that finger brake or head button. There are only about 2 threads holding it in. Frist crash, and it will strip out. Lee and I both have proved this lol.

I would highly suggest getting the main shaft from Align for the Pro V2 that has the machined collar. Much more stable and secure IMO.

28:50, stings a bit when they pop on huh? lmao.

All in all, a pretty good video. Moving right along.