My New Align 600 DFC UPGRADE - Test Flight!

[Westy]

Hey , It is a 1220 BL650L?

Anyway, I stripped the motor down and found both the bearings stuffed ... Also found a bad patch on my main gear. you would not see it by eye (because of the white colour) but you could feel a spot where 5 - 6 teeth were worn more than the rest..... so out with the bad and in with the good. - Must have been one time recently when I hit the ID1 at too a low a head speed .....

I will have to count the teeth on the main gear .... 170 sounds about right .... So you are saying I will have to get a 10 tooth one?

Anyway ... ordering the motor bearings now!

 

[Tony]

Have to get the 10t? Nope. But, It would help to cool down that motor. However, what we need to do is calculate the gear ratio and get your head speed to about 2000 rpm at 100% throttle. YOu can go higher, but if your not doing hard core 3D, then it's just wasted energy. Something around 1500 would suit someone just flying around quite well.

Lets let Lee have a look at this thread and see what pinion he is running on his 600. I'm playing with nitro, and just going off of what I have found online. Some of the newer stuff may have come with a count like that.

BTW, straight cut gears from what I found are 170 and helical cut are 181 I think. With the larger helical gear, you would be able to run slightly larger pinion. But, lets see what Lee says and see if a new main gear and motor bearings are the fix for the heat issue before we dive head first into this and start swapping parts that could be good.

 

[Lee]

The 14T pinion is giving you a Headspeed of 2368 at 100% initially then dropping to 2100 by the end of the battery. No wonder you said your batteries are puffing. You are straining the crap out of them. 600s are not really made for 6S even though they sell them. Thats why they made the 550, and the new Pro 600 is 12S.
You should be looking at 2000 RPM to take the strain off your power train. Get a 13T and maybe run ID1 90% ID2 100% with the new bearings you should be sweet.
As Tony said, unless you are doing hard 3D, 2300 is way too high, reducing flight times, strain electrics. 1900 to 2100 is what i run and its plenty.

 

[Westy]

hmmm .... It came with the 14 and a 170 tooth as stock. So Should I step down to 13 or go all the way to 10?

Looking at the Dark Horse calc system .... 10 will almost half the battery draw per minute.

 

[Tony]

After thinking about it for a while, I think 10 may be a little too low. Yes, it will still fly, and honestly you will not notice hardly any bogging, but if you ever get into idle up and start doing 3D, it may affect it with reduced speed in the head. But, it will still work. If it was me and I wanted to fine tune the heli, I would order a 10, 11, 12, and 13 tooth and try each of them out. But, Just a one purchase done king of thing, I would go with a 12 or 13. Need to get that head speed down.

 

[Westy]

sweet ... .will get a 12 and take a punt! half way is better than not at all!

Wonder why they sell them like that?????

 

[Tony]

I was thinking the same thing lol. Make sure to get a good pinion. I'm sure you were, just had to mention it.

All this talk, and my poor heli is still down. Just started looking at Tarot's... just can't pull that trigger lmao.

 

[Lee]

A 12T will give you 2000 at full battery. 1870 at mid and 1800 at low. The 13T will give you 2200, 2025, 1954 which is perfect. You can run 90% throttle for the first half then 100% for the second to keep the RPM at around 2000/2100. If you get down into the 1800s you may start to get head bobbing. I had a 1000KV motor and with 15T the heli was like a nodding dog. Swapped it for a 16T and all was smooth and stable.

 

[Tony]

Lee what we are worried about here is heat. From what he was saying, the motor was quite hot after the flight on the video. Do you think 1 tooth will bring the temp down enough?

 

[Lee]

Its going to drop it by over 200 RPM through the range. I think his bearings probably played a big part in the heat. But i agree with you that he should get a couple of pinions 12/13 and see whats best. A 10T would put him down at 1600/1500. Thats way to slow to do anything really. I think it would just feel like a lead weight.
I think its better to be over and reduce the throttle % than under and have nowhere to go.
I always buy two pinions for my helis. The one i think is right and one bigger. I'm running 740KV with 17T on 8S. At 100% throttle i have 2325, 2141,2067 but i have ID at 85% and ID2 at 95%. I tend to run many at 85% unless i'm doing tictocs.

 

[canongraphy]

Hey Westy very nice!
I want to eventually do the conversion on my 600 too.
Nothing like the sound of the 600, its music to me.
nice job!

Jeff

 

[Westy]

Except maybe ... a GOBLIN 630 or 700 or 770!!!

Thanks Jeff!

 

[canongraphy]

Westy, after reading this thread all the way through, what did you end up doing to get it all working right?
What did you end up with?

 

[Westy]

Hey There,

It was a combination ..... throttle curve, upgrade the tail slider arm to an alloy one, loosened the blade grips on the tail blades a little, dropped the head speed with a 12 tooth Pinion.

tail blades a little, dropped the head speed with a 12 tooth Pinion.