450 Is there a video on how to set a flybarless head up.
- Thread starter Murray
- Start date
murankar
Staff member
When setting up the head you need to make sure everything below the head is level. As for making the heli level, there are many schools of thought on this topic. I personally make sure the main shaft is plum vertical; watch the soko heli tool videos on how to plum the main shaft. Once that is done then you can go about setting up the heli for level. I start by setting the servo arms to 90 degrees to the servo body. then I set the servo linkages to the specs set in the manual of the heli and while your at setting those go ahead and do the same for all the linkages for your kit. After pluming the main shaft you will hook up the swash to grip linkages. In the radio make sure you have a linear pitch curve that starts at 0 (zero) then goes to 100 (0, 25, 50, 75, 100), don't worry about throttle at this point. At mind stick you should have something close to 0 degrees pitch, wont be dead on yet.
Leveling the swash, I could spell it out here if you want but the soko video explains how to do it with a digital pitch gauge. Some folks find it difficult others find it easy so for an alternate way you can use a swash level tool or the zip tie method. Tony made a better video than I did on this subject so choose the method you want and stick with that method and learn it well. While leveling the swash you can either use the sub trim in your fbl software or in the gyro (depends on what you have). If you have to add a substantial (i.e. the servo is no longer in a ball park of 90 degrees) then you should reset back to the starting value and adjust the linkage instead. Your goal is to keep the servo arm close to the center of travel as possible. Before you move on make sure your swash is level. Most fbl apps will set the swash and servo arms so that you can get good readings prior to setting 0 pitch at mid stick.
0 pitch at mid stick is rather simple if everything is setup correctly to this point. With the blades in line with the boom attach your pitch gauge. Now at this point the only thing you should need to do is make some minor mechanical adjustments with the links to get it to 0. On a 450 if you are under .4 or .5 degrees you can call it good unless you want perfection. Some software will allow you to drop or raise the swash to attain 0. if this is the case then get the links as close as possible while maintaining the same pitch on bothe blades. Really all this means is if one blade is closer on the negative then both should be on the negative side or vise versa. Then in the software go ahead and shift the swash up or down to get you to 0.
Almost done, while the blades are still in line with the boom do your roll pitch. This should end up somewhere between 8 and 9 degrees and set your total collective which should be around 10 to 12 degrees (I like 12 but then again that's me). This is done in the fbl software. Once those are set then the for aft cyclic need set by spinning the blades 90 degrees so they are crossing the center line of the frame at 90 degrees. Do the same thing and set the cyclic to 8 or 9 degrees.
Some gyros want a geometry setup of either 6 or 8 degrees. Make sure that gets done also. All that should be left at this point is the tail. Fold the tail blades back 90 degrees to the hub (in the same direction). let the pitch slider center and see if both blades are in line with each other. If they are then your done if not adjust your linkage so they are as close as possible. Finish this by using the sub trim in the gyro.
As for setting the gyro requested pitch, that requires a special pitch gauge attachment that most pilots don't have. Eye ball itthe best you can. if your oitch is correct the tail should hold while in rate mode without and corrections being made by you. Once you feel the tail is holding without you correcting it then that is done and ready for you to setup head hold mode and gain values for both rate and head hold.
Leveling the swash, I could spell it out here if you want but the soko video explains how to do it with a digital pitch gauge. Some folks find it difficult others find it easy so for an alternate way you can use a swash level tool or the zip tie method. Tony made a better video than I did on this subject so choose the method you want and stick with that method and learn it well. While leveling the swash you can either use the sub trim in your fbl software or in the gyro (depends on what you have). If you have to add a substantial (i.e. the servo is no longer in a ball park of 90 degrees) then you should reset back to the starting value and adjust the linkage instead. Your goal is to keep the servo arm close to the center of travel as possible. Before you move on make sure your swash is level. Most fbl apps will set the swash and servo arms so that you can get good readings prior to setting 0 pitch at mid stick.
0 pitch at mid stick is rather simple if everything is setup correctly to this point. With the blades in line with the boom attach your pitch gauge. Now at this point the only thing you should need to do is make some minor mechanical adjustments with the links to get it to 0. On a 450 if you are under .4 or .5 degrees you can call it good unless you want perfection. Some software will allow you to drop or raise the swash to attain 0. if this is the case then get the links as close as possible while maintaining the same pitch on bothe blades. Really all this means is if one blade is closer on the negative then both should be on the negative side or vise versa. Then in the software go ahead and shift the swash up or down to get you to 0.
Almost done, while the blades are still in line with the boom do your roll pitch. This should end up somewhere between 8 and 9 degrees and set your total collective which should be around 10 to 12 degrees (I like 12 but then again that's me). This is done in the fbl software. Once those are set then the for aft cyclic need set by spinning the blades 90 degrees so they are crossing the center line of the frame at 90 degrees. Do the same thing and set the cyclic to 8 or 9 degrees.
Some gyros want a geometry setup of either 6 or 8 degrees. Make sure that gets done also. All that should be left at this point is the tail. Fold the tail blades back 90 degrees to the hub (in the same direction). let the pitch slider center and see if both blades are in line with each other. If they are then your done if not adjust your linkage so they are as close as possible. Finish this by using the sub trim in the gyro.
As for setting the gyro requested pitch, that requires a special pitch gauge attachment that most pilots don't have. Eye ball itthe best you can. if your oitch is correct the tail should hold while in rate mode without and corrections being made by you. Once you feel the tail is holding without you correcting it then that is done and ready for you to setup head hold mode and gain values for both rate and head hold.
Tony
Staff member