450 Hk 450 se v2

[amastron]

When I hold the main gear still the head does move back and forth just a tiny bit. Out on the ends of the rotor blades it translates to much more back and forth movement.
I spooled it up and had no vibration, everything seemed good. I tried t on the shaft that came in the kit and it's the same lose fit. The ID of the rotor head is 5.08 mm and of course the shaft is 5 mm.

 

[Tony]

You may be able to wrap a single piece of scotch tape around the shaft and take up that play.

 

[amastron]

Never thought of that, wonder how a piece of aluminum duct tape would be. It's a little thicker, I'll try both and see witch one works best. Thanks for the idea Tony, never would have thought of it myself! Let you know how it works out good or bad.

 

[Tony]

Right on, glad I could help.

 

[trainrider06]

I have this tape that is used as a heat shield, it's thin and I bet it would work perfect for that!

 

[amastron]

I tried the aluminum first, it was too thick. No better luck with the scotch, still too thick. Back to the chalk board.

 

[trainrider06]

I tried the aluminum first, it was too thick. No better luck with the scotch, still too thick. Back to the chalk board.

Hmm? well with the constant load on the head as it's turning the blades, it'll probably remain consistent without the minimal slop affecting it....but wear and stress on the bolt may come into play at some point....

Oh one more thing....does the bolt have a shank on it (non threaded area)? maybe the bolt is backing up to that and not allowing it to tighten?? Just a thought....
There has to be some issue there, because unless the head was just plain a manufacture defective one, I can imagine they'd sell it to fit like that...

 

[Tony]

When you put the scotch tape on, you can try to gently (read that more than once, GENTLY!!! lol) pry the head apart at the two slots and slip it over the tape/shaft. Don't go all He Man on this thing or you will split that purdy head. Or, you can try putting a little epoxy down in the head hole then just sliding the head on the shaft. It should equal out and will dry hard as a rock. This is a last resort seeing as you will have to clean out holes and such after you are done. A drop should do it. I do not suggest this method, but it's an option.

My idea would be to just order another head block. They are not that expensive. Hell, I may have one here somewhere depending on the head you have. I would just have to look.

 

[D.O.G.]

I'm doing this same DFC conversion but on a Align 450 SE v.2 and needed to order a main shaft just for the SE, (Align # H45H001XXW Main Shaft). I think I paid about 10 bucks for two shafts.
And while I'm at it maybe someone knows is this DFC head is supposed to be loose on the main shaft? I cranked down the bolt tight and it still moves around, not a lot but not at all tight.
And with the swash leveling, using the tool do you still use the top of the tool to align with the bottom of the bolt hole at full stick up?

Hey amastron, My align dfc head also moved a little and i though that was strange. So i went to the Tarot DFC head which has 3 places to tighten down. No movement and i have no complaints, yet! Lol

 

[amastron]

I have no slots to pry, that's my main problem. It's all solid all the way around and the bolt is not tapping out, it still has plenty thread to tighten. Also, the head is open to the feathering shaft inside top so no epoxy. Look!

DOG, if yours to was lose to maybe it's no big deal. Maybe that's just the way Align made it. I plan to check out those Tarot heads though, thanks!

 

[D.O.G.]

I have no slots to pry, that's my main problem. It's all solid all the way around and the bolt is not tapping out, it still has plenty thread to tighten. Also, the head is open to the feathering shaft inside top so no epoxy. Look! View attachment 14062View attachment 14063

DOG, if yours to was lose to maybe it's no big deal. Maybe that's just the way Align made it. I plan to check out those Tarot heads though, thanks!

The Tarot DFC head, seem to me, to be a better built head then the Align. Like i said, just my opinion. I use the Align head for back up.

 

[trainrider06]

The Tarot DFC head, seem to me, to be a better built head then the Align. Like i said, just my opinion. I use the Align head for back up.

I had heard some prefered the Tarot head setup on the 450's If this is a common thing with the Align conversion head I understand why now!

 

[Tony]

Ah, i was thinking this was still the hk head. But i do think i have an old hk head in a box somewhere.

 

[amastron]

That sounds familiar, I think I have one in a box somewhere. Wish I had a nickel for every time I said that myself. I think I'm going to try this out, see if it works and go from there. There must be more of these heads out there and I have never heard anyone say it crashed because of the head yet! Shoot, I still gota figure out this Align GoPro FBL system yet so I want to save some questions for that.

@ trainrider, does your 500 Pro DFC have the Align head? If so is it as loose as the 450? My 500 has a flybar head but I was thinking of the change to DFC.

 

[trainrider06]

That sounds familiar, I think I have one in a box somewhere. Wish I had a nickel for every time I said that myself. I think I'm going to try this out, see if it works and go from there. There must be more of these heads out there and I have never heard anyone say it crashed because of the head yet! Shoot, I still gota figure out this Align GoPro FBL system yet so I want to save some questions for that.

@ trainrider, does your 500 Pro DFC have the Align head? If so is it as loose as the 450? My 500 has a flybar head but I was thinking of the change to DFC.

Ahhh! You know I never noticed but I was courious when you asked about my DFC head on my 500, and guess what!
There is just the slightest movement back and forth when I twist the head! I'm thinking this must be common.

 

[Tony]

One thing to think about, when this thing is spinning, it's going to hold the head straight with only slight movement when you apply cyclic. IMO, I would try it out and see how it does. That would solve one of your issues. Just make sure to check that bolt holding the head on every few flights and make sure it's not getting worn.

 

[amastron]

After you said that Tony I checked just the bolt in the shaft hole, it seems that is where the slop is. If that hole was the same size as the bolt it would be much tighter on the shaft.
I was thinking of taking mine to a machine shop friend I know and having two holes drilled and tapped for set screws at a 90 Deg. angle to the through shaft hole bolt and snug those to the shaft.

I have another question for someone, can I mount the Align Gpro flybarless system upside down under my SE v.2 baseplate? When I have it inside the frame where the receiver use to be there isn't much room to plug the USB cable in. Here is a few pictures to see what I'm talking about.

 

[Tony]

I am pretty sure you can mount it upside down. But check with the software in the orientation menu.

As for the set screws, be careful not to get the head off center.

 

[amastron]

The head is thick enough that I can use short set screws so I plan to use two per hole, this way I don't need to have it real tight to the shaft. Then tighten the second one in on top the first one with some locktight. I want to first see if it's good to go as is before doing all that, I think it will be fine as is really.

The software does not have very good pictures, I think the two pictures on the bottom are of it under the bottom so I'm going with that. Thanks for the answer Tony!

 

[Tony]

Just downloaded the software for this gyro. And yes, it's one of the bottom two configs depending on what way your wires are facing.

And what I was saying about the set screws is, when you tighten them down, the head will not be centered on the shaft. Meaning, one blade will be longer than the other when it's spinning causing a vibration. But as you stated, I'm sure it will work without any grub screws.