I have had my ESc burn or fail in some way and I wanted to know is it possible to test the motor in case the new ESC goes the same way. The motor is Ternigy 2680 3700. Nothings binding and its very smooth to turn clockwise and I can feel the strength of the magnets anticlockwise. The motor spun up for about 20 30 second to about 25 to 30% then stopped. There is no obvious signs of heating anywhere but there is a strong smell of what I can only describe as ozone coming from the esc. Is there a way of checking the motor with out putting another esc at rick. I have a veriable voltage dc power supply that can draw 25 amps. Is it worth connecting the motor up to this. Any thoughts, ideas most welcome.
General Brushless Motor Testing
- Thread starter treff
- Start date
Tony
Staff member
Re: Testing motor
For testing a brushless motor, it's best to test with a known good ESC. However if you are worried about damaging the ESC there are other ways of testing the motor. I know you trashed the stock ESC, but you do have the one from the other heli. But, read on before you hook it up just incase there is an issue with the motor.
The first thing you will need is obviously the motor and a drill of some kind. Electric drills are best becuase they can hold the same rpm unlike a battery drill.
Chuck the motor up in the drill holding the case with your hand (where the wires come out). Spin the drill up to at least 1000rpm. You should see NO buildup of heat in the motor and there should not be any resistance. If there is resistance or heat, then you have a short in the windings and the motor is trashed.
Second test you will need an AC volt meter. Label the wires #1 #2 #3. chuck up the drill and put the meter on an AC setting (you will have to find your setting after starting teh first test. Run the drill up to full speed with the meter connected to #1 & #2, then #2 & #3 and finally #3 & #1. The output voltage should be exactly the same across all 3 polls.
The third test will build some heat, so be careful. It's the "Brake" test. wire all 3 wires together and spin the motor up while holding the can. With the wires shorted out to each other, it will act like a brake. DON'T DO THIS FOR MORE THAN 10 SECONDS!!! You should feel drag in the motor and it should remain constant. If you feel a chugging, then the motor is bad.
Remember a brushless is just a 3 phase motor. I hope this helps you in testing your motor to make sure it's good. Make sure to spin it for a while on the first test with nothing connected to the wires. This is just a baseline test, and if you have damaged the windings in the can, this will create a brake effect and built some heat. Hope this helps.
For testing a brushless motor, it's best to test with a known good ESC. However if you are worried about damaging the ESC there are other ways of testing the motor. I know you trashed the stock ESC, but you do have the one from the other heli. But, read on before you hook it up just incase there is an issue with the motor.
The first thing you will need is obviously the motor and a drill of some kind. Electric drills are best becuase they can hold the same rpm unlike a battery drill.
Chuck the motor up in the drill holding the case with your hand (where the wires come out). Spin the drill up to at least 1000rpm. You should see NO buildup of heat in the motor and there should not be any resistance. If there is resistance or heat, then you have a short in the windings and the motor is trashed.
Second test you will need an AC volt meter. Label the wires #1 #2 #3. chuck up the drill and put the meter on an AC setting (you will have to find your setting after starting teh first test. Run the drill up to full speed with the meter connected to #1 & #2, then #2 & #3 and finally #3 & #1. The output voltage should be exactly the same across all 3 polls.
The third test will build some heat, so be careful. It's the "Brake" test. wire all 3 wires together and spin the motor up while holding the can. With the wires shorted out to each other, it will act like a brake. DON'T DO THIS FOR MORE THAN 10 SECONDS!!! You should feel drag in the motor and it should remain constant. If you feel a chugging, then the motor is bad.
Remember a brushless is just a 3 phase motor. I hope this helps you in testing your motor to make sure it's good. Make sure to spin it for a while on the first test with nothing connected to the wires. This is just a baseline test, and if you have damaged the windings in the can, this will create a brake effect and built some heat. Hope this helps.
Re: Testing motor
Thanks for the very useful info Tony. I have tried the motor on a friends esc, resulting in one dead esc................so the motor is the culprit. I think it is dead shorted some where. One lesson learned from all of this. DONOT BUY PARTS FROM HK. Every thing I have purchased from them and I mean everything is of poor quality or does not work at all.
Thanks for the very useful info Tony. I have tried the motor on a friends esc, resulting in one dead esc................so the motor is the culprit. I think it is dead shorted some where. One lesson learned from all of this. DONOT BUY PARTS FROM HK. Every thing I have purchased from them and I mean everything is of poor quality or does not work at all.
Tony
Staff member
Re: Testing motor
I'm right there with ya bro. I will not buy from them until they get their QC under control. Right now, it's all about taking your money and telling you to piss off when you have a problem. The EXACT OPPOSITE of the way I run this forum.
Sucks about your buddies ESC though. Looks like it's time for an align motor and ESC. Well worth the money IMO.
I'm right there with ya bro. I will not buy from them until they get their QC under control. Right now, it's all about taking your money and telling you to piss off when you have a problem. The EXACT OPPOSITE of the way I run this forum.
Sucks about your buddies ESC though. Looks like it's time for an align motor and ESC. Well worth the money IMO.
Well after going back and re-testing this motor (hate to throw anything away) spinning it up with an electric drill I can find no fault all the windings appear to behaving as they should. It's all very strange. The ESC is dead nothing coming out of the BEC so it cannot drive the motor. Maybe just a one off. I've ordered another ESC so I am waiting now on the post. The story continues............... By the way this motor is sold by HK and is advertised as 2836-3700 but they sent 2836-3200 is there any difference apart from capacity?
Hi Lee thanks for the reply. Pinions are 11 or 14 I ran it first on the 11. It spooled up great, nice and slow and smooth. I think the vibration was from blade tracking. Should I use the 14 pinion?
It's strange when we tested a few days ago I was sure there was a short on one of the windings but my friend and I had consumed a bit to much wine LOL and his esc seemed to have stopped working. There's a moral there somewhere. Anyway it's back to the work bench. The only esc I could get in reasonable time was again from HK. Yes I know, bit of a bummer but I have to finish this soon. I have brought the turnigy trust 55amp version this time so I am just keeping my fingers crossed that it will do the job.
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Sorry pinions are infact 13 1nd 15. Cheers