First we probably should clear up one thing... Gorilla is actually a brand and not a type of glue. Gorilla makes many different types including CA, wood glue, epoxy as well as the one most think of as Gorilla Glue ( their first one ) that is waterproof, a large temp range ( doesn't crack or get soft at temp ) foams and expands etc.
Gorilla Glue works well to fill voids and areas that requires some added strength like you'd find around landing gear. Because it expands and foams up as it cures... you don't want to use it in tight places or where precision glueing is warranted. This one is certainly handing in certain situations but the other types of glue made by Gorilla aren't probably as good as other brands provide.
Wood Glue... two good brands are Elmer's and/or Titebond. These work very well but they do have a slower dry time so I tend to use the right CA instead in many cases. These will fill gaps better than I feel I get with a thick CA. I will often mix these with saw dust, baking soda, Tiny Bubbles ( a light filler modelers use with various glues ) and/or talc powder to make a lighter weight sandable filler for things such as fillets and such.
Thin CA... This actually makes a stronger bond than wood glue since it penetrates the wood more. If that penetration is important to your joint, don't use kicker. Also doubles as a permanent locktite on screws and bolts and unlike locktite, it doesn't matter if they are all metal or not... it won't attack plastics or nylons like locktite. As far as being sandable, it really isn't so much as compared to a wood glue.
Medium CA... Doesn't penetrate like the thin and it does fill joints in pretty well but not as much as a thick one will. I'll use this one to go back over all joints I may have glued with thin CA, to beef them up some... as well as all critical areas such as firewalls, landing gear blocks and motorbox's....
Thick CA... It doesn't make as good of a joint glue like the thin or medium... but it fills gaps really well but not as well as wood glues are capable of. Also works great to hold nuts and bolts in place when you don't want something permanent since it doesn't penatrate the threads and only sits on top.
Epoxy... I use this in landing gear blocks, firewalls and similar areas where added strength ( beyond what wood itself provides ) is needed. It also works nicely when thinned down to fuelproof a FW or other wood on IC engine airframes. When used with a filler ( to lighten it up ) it makes excellent fillets and adds a lot of strength to that area. It isn't as sandable as the wood glue, but it is much stronger. I use this almost exclusively on composite airframes or where I'm joining a composite to wood.
(I thought I did... oops)
