Batteries Align 450 pro 3gx battery ???

xokia

Active Member
Yeah but it's a 40 watt Iron, I looked at the specs on it on the side. So I think it's just so old it's worn out. I need to get a new one.

A 40 watt iron is generally used for small electronics. Most of these cheap soldering irons are actually really bad because the temperature is unregulated. Even the iron I linked you to is unregulated. The danger here is that some sensitive electronic devices can be damaged if over heated. But what we are soldering is just wires and connectors so its a moot point. When choosing a soldering iron you want an iron that can heat up the connection faster than the material you are trying to solder can disappate the heat away. Basically the wire you are trying to solder acts like a heat sink. The larger the guage wire the bigger the heat sink. In order to solder it you need to dump a lot of heat into it very quickly. I do not like the pencil style irons for this type of work because they take a long time to heat up. They use the iron itself to store heat and have a very small heating element. That's why when you unplug them they take a long time to cool down. The instant soldering irons dont store much heat in the iron that is why the tip is so small. They are dumping all the energy into the tip instantly. This is the ideal type of iron to solder wires.

For soldering electronics you really want an iron that regulates temperature and keeps it in the 600-700 degree range. The eutectic point of the particular solder you are using is what determines what temperature to use.

Before I was an engineer I was a tech and reviewed a lot of soldering equipment before it was brought into the company I worked for. You can keep fighting that pencil iron or get a better iron and be less frustrated.
 
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john2012

Banned
Hello how big of a lipo bat can be run on a 450 trex and i have two 450 dfc and a sport that i need batteries for any suggestions
 

Dizzle000

Member
From what I am gathering from people ill want some 2200 mah 30c as long as ur battery is big enough for the amp draw that ur motor requires u should be good to go there is a vid on The rc help YouTube page that explainers how do the amp equastion for lipo bats
 

Tony

Staff member
Holy crap guys, you have thread jacked the HELL out of this thread. This was a GREAT topic too. Please, if you are going to post something off topic, do it in your OWN thread! This off topic thread jacking is getting HORRIBLE around here lately! I will be cleaning this thread up when I have time. Right now, I'm just trying to catch up on the forum from 4 days off. Please don't make me start having to hand out infractions.
 

Dizzle000

Member
Yea I noticed this thread went from batteries to soldering lol anyhow I would still like to know how you do the calculations and choose the right battery for your heli
 

xokia

Active Member
Yea I noticed this thread went from batteries to soldering lol anyhow I would still like to know how you do the calculations and choose the right battery for your heli
I try to answer all questions if it helps someone. I answered the original question a while back. To choose the right battery for your heli the best option is to go buy what the manufacturer says. I believe Align recommends the largest battery being 2650 mAh for the 450. As far as C ratings go its a bit of hocus pocus so there is no correct answer.

The problem is there is no standard for the C rating and the manufacturers are free to stick which ever value they feel on their batteries. Some manufactures over state their C rating others under state their C rating. So you could have a 65C from one manufacturer being equavelent to a 35C from another manufacturer. But generally you take the current * C rating gives you average current. So 2200mAh *35C = 77,000mAh or 77A. Which doesn't tell the complete picture. What they aren't telling you is how much the voltage will sag with that current draw which is just as important and where the varience in ratings comes from. One manufacturer may say .5v drop is acceptable another might say 1.2v drop is acceptable. There is a huge difference between these two batteries.

The 450 Motor/ESC is only rated for 35 amps continuous so that's what you are trying to buy a battery for.

For sport flying 35C is probably fine
For 3D I'd want a 45C minimum which I mentioned previously I'm able to bring these down pretty warm. So I will be moving to 65C in the furture.
I only purchase Nano-techs so your mileage may vary if you have a different brand battery. Get yourself either a charger that can measure ESR or better yet an ESR meter if you intend to stay in this hobby long. When measuring ESR you want to do it at room temperature. Temperature effects the ESR reading of the batteries. A warm battery will read a lower ESR then a colder battery. In order to be meaningful all your measurements must be at the same temperature. This is why the stand alone ESR meters are more accurate when you charge a battery you are also heating it up.

Good luck to the both of you. I'm going to check out for while.
 
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john2012

Banned
Hey DAL2855 go to walmart and get a 10 dollar weller i have one and i also have a 850watt soldering station they c=both work great and get the small solder 60 40 type and your go to go
 
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