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700 700 Final Electronics Esc,bec, Gyro Guidance Required.

Discussion in 'Helicopters' started by leedude1, Jul 5, 2019.

< Trex 450 Pro Motor Timming? | Wltoys V911 Fixed Pitch Helicopter >
  1. leedude1

    leedude1 Member

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    So I was hoping to get the final electronics set up and done over the weekend if i can.

    Im just worried about all the new components and stuff that I have not had to deal with in the past and honestly dont want to fry a 300$ component just because i made a dumb ass move. (I already own a few of those this year):highly_amused:

    1. Running a 12s system for the first time.
    2. Ive wired the ESC HV 160 as per manufacture suggested with BEC pro 20.
    3. ar7210bx gyro

    20190705_220621[1].jpg

    Now questions are as follows.

    1. I have a lead out of the BEC which would go into the throttle slot on the BX, then the ESC also has a white wire which my understanding is would also go into the BX in the RPM AUX slot. But is this a must if im going to try and run the governor in the CASTLE 160? or is it required to be plugged in regardless?

    2. So I have 2 leads out of the BEC and 2 leads out of the ESC (counting the white wire) plus the 4 servos leads all 8 slots would be filled. Can I have one of those BEC leads plugged into the bind slot? if not, I dont have enough slots for leads. what goes where then? and then when binding, I would need to unplug one of the bec power leads, problem or normal? is it ok to do so? Ive just Velcro stuff here temporarily until I figure out whats going where and then I make things tidy and permanent.

    20190705_220703[1].jpg

    3. If I choose to activate the governor (still new to this aspect also) in the ESC, then I turn off the governor in the BX and the same is applicable the other way around. if i use the governor in the AR7210bx I would deactivate the gov in the ESC.

    3. What am I setting up first? ESC? BEC?

    4. Do I need to power this up with 12s? because of the ESC leads being set up like this, I have to plug in 2 batteries to complete the circuit..or should I build a jumper of sorts? or is there another option?


    Thanks guys
     
  2. Tony

    Tony Administrator Staff Member

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    1. If you are going to use the gov in the Castle, you don't need the rpm sensor wire.

    2. I don't know if you can put power through the bind port or not. Best thing to do there is to connect power to the receiver and see if you have power between the center and bottom pins on that plug. If you do, then you can run power there. If not, I would not risk it. I'm sure the dual leads is for current capacity. I will bet if you use a continuity tester, the red and black wires on those two leads coming out of the BEC will be connected. If they are, then you can get away with running one as long as you are not pulling too many amps.

    3a. yes, you are correct.

    3b. Set the BEC up first, you need power to set up the ESC when you calibrate the throttle and you are likely going to have to use sticks on the Tx for the rest unless you can use the Castle link on that ESC.

    4. You can set this up with the lowest voltage battery that the ESC/BEC will allow. To use one battery, just make a jumper for one of the plugs to connect the two pins. Just make sure which one is positive and which one is negative. If you connect it up backwards, the magic smoke comes out.
     
  3. leedude1

    leedude1 Member

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    1. Cool , that solves one problem by providing me with an extra slot and removing my bind plug concern.

    2. Yes it is for current capacity your right according the manual they are to split for that purpose. prefer to leave it if possible because a loss of power there means dropping out of the sky...pass :thumbsup:

    3. Going to use the Castle link for both. ill run through it on the Talon 90 and the 550 first to get comfortable with all the settings. and steps involved.

    4. Here is the worry Tony. These are the things I stare at, check and double check..then check again as it is far from a comfort level for me.. Im a wood guy (prefer a router or table saw to a soldering iron) ....anyway, I'm able to copy the set up required in the manual but dont quite understand the principals of it.

    So straight plug in black to red , no issue. but with the new setup I have Tony. In order to set up with only one battery,am I building a 2 connectors down to 1 connector jumper for the battery end of this diagram? Respecting the connection on the ESC side (two plugs) I would then need to link the 2 black wires together on the battery side and the 2 red wires from each connector similarly together resulting in only one connector that my 6s battery would plug into correct?
    images?q=tbn:ANd9GcROwsmtfOP4wWT9iEI8J7RdTQKBgwxuWKaTqvNuzKpAa9lBB65n.png


    Sorry Tony, but for the electronics you dont need to dummy it down, but rather stupid it down :facepalm: LOL No magic smoke...please
     
  4. Tony

    Tony Administrator Staff Member

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    In that diagram, if that is how you have it wired, you will need to keep the top battery right where it is but you will delete the bottom battery. Instead, replace the battery with a connector that just jumps the red and black wires together. If you run the wires like that, you will see that the top batteries positive is now going all the way to the ESC rather than into another battery. I'm not at my desk right now, but tomorrow I can do a diagram to show you what I mean if text is not your thing. I know I have a hard time reading something and understanding it. I like to see it. So if you need that, I will make it tomorrow.
     
  5. leedude1

    leedude1 Member

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    Yes please Tony.. I would appreciate the drawing . If you look at the photo of my wires you'll see that it's a copy paste of the manual diagram provided it is just inverted as the red wire in their diagram comes off the left side of the esc and mine is on the right... but I respected the polarity shown so essentially the same.
     
  6. Tony

    Tony Administrator Staff Member

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    I will see what I can get done in the morning. If I forget, remind me lol.
     
  7. leedude1

    leedude1 Member

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    Crashed last night after the last post Tony but reread your last entry and kind of etcha scetched it in my head following the wires.
    I think I see what you mean. Let me draw it up and you confirm I'm good.
    Get some caffeine in my sorry ass body first. :coffee:
     
  8. leedude1

    leedude1 Member

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    Let me know if this works.. Ive based it off the manuals drawing and orientation and not my picture as they are inverted (the battery for my set up ,see photo, would be connected to the bottom leads and not the top one as that's where the BEC wires are run).

    20190706_082234[1].jpg
     
  9. Tony

    Tony Administrator Staff Member

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    Yes sir, that is how you do it. Just replacing a battery with a wire. This will allow you to use one battery for setup which is a lot easier lol.
     
  10. leedude1

    leedude1 Member

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    Excellent thanks Tony.
     
  11. leedude1

    leedude1 Member

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    Ok now on set up for my BEC all my servos are HV and can run at 8.4 volts.. based on my flying sport and just mild 3d should I run it at the 8.4 or just the min 6 V split the difference 7.4... thoughts?

    For the set up as you mentioned ill set it at 6V but later on, is the change necessary in your opinion.
     
  12. Tony

    Tony Administrator Staff Member

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    I would just run them on 6v myself. No need to run any higher unless you are needing all of the speed out of them.
     
  13. leedude1

    leedude1 Member

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    Thats what I figured as well.
     
  14. leedude1

    leedude1 Member

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    OK well BEC programmed and ESC also.

    Here are the settings I used.. pulled the motor details from the manual 13 tooth pinon 110 main gear etc gear ratio was auto calculated.

    Wasn't sure on a few points like the gain and headspeed change or the PWM rate etc.. Can you give the list a quick look see and let me know if anything stands out as a definite wrong or am I good to do a flight test once everything is set up and ready to go.


    20190707_214043[1].jpg
     
  15. leedude1

    leedude1 Member

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    Those settings ask for a 30% 75% and 100% throttle Tx setting in the castle link .. Does that mean I can set the flight mode Normal at a solid 30% across all points and then I1 and I2 as designated?
    Could I not set my low stick to 0% in the normal mode, or is that not recommended when using governor mode? Otherwise if I understand correctly as soon as I release TH it would spin up.
     
  16. Tony

    Tony Administrator Staff Member

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    Yes, you can set normal to that, but you will have no normal mode then. What I would do instead is set normal to 0 30 30 30 30 that way in normal, you are still flying on the governor, but you still have a way, without throttle hold only, to stop the motor.
     
  17. leedude1

    leedude1 Member

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    That's the set up I used tony. 0 then a flat 30 across the other points for the rest in normal.
    I Bench tested last night after setting the throttle end points in the esc as I had in my castle 90 video...I should probably link that in here. (Placed it here in case some else can use it)

     
  18. leedude1

    leedude1 Member

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    So all done, going to put it in the air on Monday if the weather holds out.

    I have one question though. I am using the ar7210BX as i have these units on all my larger birds and enjoy them on many levels. They just work again the caveat is with my flying style I dont feel I need anything more and Im able to tune these quite well.

    Having said that, in the set up menu I have one eg; my 450 that I could not quite get to blue with the 6 degree cyclic but have always flown it in "red" state in "J"with out issue . Now with my 700x, Im am forced to reduce max throws as the ball links are bottoming out on the side of the servo cases or the tail mount and in doing so in full negative I end up with a purple state versus the preferred blue.

    Has any one flown withe "L" being in "purple". My guess here is that blue if simply the ideal throws for the set max and min pitch I have set but that it will still fly fine albeit with slightly reduced end points in some directions. The manual suggests similar to "j" to mechanically adjust llink to get the desired out come however i can not see how anything done there would eliminate the servo links from contacting the case...plus the fact that Im using the actual servo horns suggested by Align with the proper ball link hole distance.

    There is no warning stating that the heli is not flyable and it should not be flow or dangerous if blue is not achieved, similar to some sections where these warnings are in fact in place.

    Thoughts or experience here would be appreciated.
     
  19. D.O.G.

    D.O.G. I Support Rc-Help! Rc-Help Supporter Goblin 380 Supporter

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    Hey there Leedude1. I don't have the AR7210BX and my biggest heli is a 500. I can afford anything bigger. I do have the AR7200BX and AR7300BX and trying to get the blue light special to light up is hard sometimes. I had no problem getting the blue to light up on my helis but try to get as close as you can. Your not the only one that has this problem but as lone as you have 6 degrees cyclic pitch on letter "J" , just get as close as you can to the blue light. Don't quote me because I don't have a heli that big.
     
  20. leedude1

    leedude1 Member

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    Thanks dog.

    I do get the 6 degree cyclic and the blue light there no problem.

    It's the menu L that I end up with purple and where my question lies.
     
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