General 44.4v's back down to 22.2v's

Dennis H

Member
Just wondering, what is involved with changing on of my Helicopters from a 44.4v system to 22.2v's?

I was just thinking about it. I am not a 3D flyer and really don't need the power the 44.4v system produces.

Would I have to change the ESC, the Motor, or is there something I am missing.

I have been told a few things that I don't want to mention as I want to hear your opinion.

Thanks, Dennis
 

Tony

Staff member
If you drop down to half of the voltage that you are using now, your amp rating is going to go way up meaning you will need a larger ESC to handle the load. If you are running 12s on something, then I assume it really does need 12s to run correctly. The reason they came out with a 6s 550 is so that the 600's could fly on 10s+ packs. When you get into larger helicopters, you need more voltage. It not only keeps your amp rating down given the same wattage, but it keeps things cooler as well. Less amps, less heat generally.

I quite honestly would keep it right where it is and not change it.
 

Dennis H

Member
If you drop down to half of the voltage that you are using now, your amp rating is going to go way up meaning you will need a larger ESC to handle the load. If you are running 12s on something, then I assume it really does need 12s to run correctly. The reason they came out with a 6s 550 is so that the 600's could fly on 10s+ packs. When you get into larger helicopters, you need more voltage. It not only keeps your amp rating down given the same wattage, but it keeps things cooler as well. Less amps, less heat generally.

I quite honestly would keep it right where it is and not change it.

This is information I need to know. I have heard of some who are flying with 10s packs.

If I remove a cell from each pack, what result would I see? Less RPM's, definetly less weight, around 37.0 volts total, etc.

Would I have to change the ESC or motor? If the benefit is worth it, I would do it. I just don't have the knowledge to make a decesion.

Dennis
 

Tony

Staff member
Dropping down to 10s will definitely result in a reduced head speed. Lets say you are using a 550kv motor, if you are running on a 12s setup your motor rpm at a full pack would be 27,720. If you are using a 10s pack your motor rpm at full pack would be 23,100. A loss of 4,620 rpm at the motor. Lets say your gear ratio is 10:1, at 12s your head speed will be 2,772 rpm and on 10s it would be 2,310 rpm, a 462 rpm difference. Now I know your gear ratio is not 10:1 and your probably not running a 550kv motor, but this is just an example. If you have the money to spend on more packs, then you can probably go with 10s. Yes, it will reduce the weight slightly but with that reduced weight, you are also reducing the power available so you will more than likely feel nothing different.

As for changing the ESC and motor for a 10s, that will depend on what the voltage ratings are for your items.
 

Dennis H

Member
Yes, it will reduce the weight slightly but with that reduced weight, you are also reducing the power available so you will more than likely feel nothing different.

The only reason I have thought about this, one person has stated I will have more "flight" time with the 10s setup. I don't understand why, but he swears it will.

I will try to locate his information and will share it with everyone. I am seeing if there is anyone else who has change their Helicopter batteries for this reason.

I do have a 550 that operated on one 6s 22.2v 5500mAh battery. I consistently get 8 minutes flying time with this Heli, which is close to my 44.4v Heli's.

Dennis
 

Tony

Staff member
Lowering the voltage, and effectively raising your amp draw will actually result in lower flight times given the same MAH. Another thing to remember is, whatever size helicopter we are talking about here is much larger and has a higher wattage than a 550 does. I as well can get 8 minutes out of the 550 on a 6s pack with the Align BL730MX motor. But if I tried to put that pack into a 700 that has a larger motor that is rated for less KV, I would not see flight times that high.
 

Dennis H

Member
Sounds like I just need to forget the 10s idea! That's why I have not gone any further with it, plus it just didn't add up with me.

Dennis
 

Tony

Staff member
Quite honestly, that is exactly what I would do. These helicopters were designed to run a certain S rating. If it calls for a 12s, then I would stick with that. Hell I might even think about going to a 14s if the ESC and motor could withstand it just because the amperage will go down when you do. But at the very least, I would keep it 12s.
 

Smoggie

Well-Known Member
If you want slightly lower headspeed and longer flights all you have to do is lower the throttle curve a little. If you need more reduction than that then fit a smaller pinion gear. If you need even lower RPM (or if there are no smaller pinions) then change the motor out for one with a lower Kv rating.


Note that if you simply remove one battery from your 12S setup to make it 6S the ESC will be ok because amps will actually drop.. But power will be way WAY down, possibly to the point that the heli struggles to even fly. How seriously underpowered it becomes depends on the heli in question.
 

Dennis H

Member
If you want slightly lower headspeed and longer flights all you have to do is lower the throttle curve a little. If you need more reduction than that then fit a smaller pinion gear. If you need even lower RPM (or if there are no smaller pinions) then change the motor out for one with a lower Kv rating.


Note that if you simply remove one battery from your 12S setup to make it 6S the ESC will be ok because amps will actually drop.. But power will be way WAY down, possibly to the point that the heli struggles to even fly. How seriously underpowered it becomes depends on the heli in question.

If you lower your Throttle Curve, the motor will run hotter. I tried this and experienced "brown outs". The motor would overheat and loose power. I put the TC back to the original setting and all is OK.

Changing gears will probably make the motor run cooler, Probably.

I am not a 3D flier, all I am looking for is more flight time playing around. Most of my setup's are scale.

Dennis

PS: I also in the process of trying different gyro's, the Skookum, NAZA-H, 3SX's, VBar's, something that will give me a good bailout if I am in trouble. I also like the "Return to Home", but it's hard to find a Heli setup with this feature.

So far the 3SX is winning. I like the Skookum, but I really think transmitters have advanced more in the last few years and might be causing differences with the Skookum 720. This is just my thought.

FWIW, I tried the NAZA-H and like the functions. I never had a problem with it. I like the options the Skookum has, but honestly they are too many to choose from. IKON2's, their in the future, but not on the table as we speak.

I wish the DJI Wookong was a little less expensive, I would try it. It may come true one day.
 

Smoggie

Well-Known Member
Lowering the throttle curve couldn't have caused the motor to run hotter. I'm not doubting you when you say that it did but the cause must have been something else. Also a 'brown out' has nothing to do with the motor. A brown out is caused when the voltage to the receiver drops too low causing the receiver to shut down briefly.

Lower throttle curve can cause the ESC to overheat though, which is why you can only go so far using throttle curves. If you need to go lower than about 70% on the throttle curve you should probably think about a smaller pinion.
 

holtneil

Active Member
Hi mate on my scale cobra I put in a low KV motor changed pinion and main gear I can get 10 mins , i dont fly for that long I land at 8 mins , As smoggie said I went to a low kv motor and geared up to the head speed to what I needed i run 70% throttle that gives me 1750 rpm ESC does not get hot but its still on its right cell set up , started out as a 500 but is now more a 550 size
 

Dennis H

Member
Lowering the throttle curve couldn't have caused the motor to run hotter. I'm not doubting you when you say that it did but the cause must have been something else. Also a 'brown out' has nothing to do with the motor. A brown out is caused when the voltage to the receiver drops too low causing the receiver to shut down briefly.

Lower throttle curve which lowers the RPM can cause the ESC to overheat though, which is why you can only go so far using throttle curves. If you need to go lower than about 70% on the throttle curve you should probably think about a smaller pinion.

Agreed, I should have worded my statement differently.

The motor did run hotter, we checked it with a IF thermometer, the ESC was so hot you could not hold your finger on it. We assumed the system was overheating because it was putting a strain on the system running at the lower RPM's. I know it was taking more collective to keep it in the air from the start.

Brown Out was the first word I thought of. With the motor and ESC being hot, we assume it was due to the system drawing too many Amp's. It could have been caused by a faulty soldering joint at one of the connectors.

When I was flying my Heli, I could tell it was loosing power. I managed to land it pretty quick. I was unable to get it spinning again. That's when I noticed the ESC and Motor were hot. I thought it was a bad connection or something. The batteries were barely warm. So I took it home and checked everything. The batteries still measured about 3.90v per cell, almost to the bottom, plus the Heli was now operating normally again. It had cooled off.

I returned to the TC back to the default settings and flew it again staying close to the ground. I have not had a problem since. Maybe it was a one time incident.

I watched a friend of mine who has the same setup and settings. He also experienced losing RPM's and landed his Heli. He didn't find any faults and is flying the Heli again with no issues.

Hopefully this better explains my situation.

Dennis

PS: Definitely changing the gears should make a difference. You would have lower RPM's, plus a lot less load will be demanded from the ESC. It should increase flight time.
 

Dennis H

Member
Hi mate on my scale cobra I put in a low KV motor changed pinion and main gear I can get 10 mins , i dont fly for that long I land at 8 mins , As smoggie said I went to a low kv motor and geared up to the head speed to what I needed i run 70% throttle that gives me 1750 rpm ESC does not get hot but its still on its right cell set up , started out as a 500 but is now more a 550 size

What mechanics are you using?

On my scale MD500, all mechanics are "Vario". It has a belt from the motor to the main shaft. I might call RC Aerodyne to see what they recommend. It's running a 5 Blade setup.

FWIW, on "ALL" of my Heli's, I leave a battery monitor on which I can see from the ground. When the alarm goes off, the LED starts flashing red, and if you're close enough, you will hear the alarm. I solely attribute this setup as the sole reason my batteries are lasting a long time. I also properly manage the batteries.

Dennis
 

Smoggie

Well-Known Member
Dennis, The ESC may have shut down due to over heating. The reason they overheat when the TC is low is that the ESC is wasting quite a bit of power when operating at part throttle, and that wasted power comes out as heat. Some types of ESC are much better than others in this respect. A few modern design ESC's have what's called 'Active Freewheeling' that make them much more efficient at part throttle operation. ESC's that have active freewheeling include YGE, YEP, Hobbywing V4 and Kontronik
 

Dennis H

Member
Dennis, The ESC may have shut down due to over heating. The reason they overheat when the TC is low is that the ESC is wasting quite a bit of power when operating at part throttle, and that wasted power comes out as heat. Some types of ESC are much better than others in this respect. A few modern design ESC's have what's called 'Active Freewheeling' that make them much more efficient at part throttle operation. ESC's that have active freewheeling include YGE, YEP, Hobbywing V4 and Kontronik

Exactly, this is the only thing we could come up with. My friend was also running a Castle ESC.

I see on your list Castle is not listed!

I know a few people that have switched to Hobbywing lately. The above may be the reason why they switched.

Thanks, Dennis
 

Smoggie

Well-Known Member
Dennis,
Yeah, castle are good ESCs but they are lagging behind a bit in development lately and 'active freewheel' is one of the main features that they could do with adding in order to keep up with the pack. I've gone over to Hobbywing on most of my helis, I now only have a Castle on the Goblin 630 and it will most likely get changed soon.
 

Dennis H

Member
Dennis,
Yeah, castle are good ESCs but they are lagging behind a bit in development lately and 'active freewheel' is one of the main features that they could do with adding in order to keep up with the pack. I've gone over to Hobbywing on most of my helis, I now only have a Castle on the Goblin 630 and it will most likely get changed soon.

Which ESC do you recommend for my 700 and my 450? Hobbywing suggestions since this seems to be where everyone is going.

Thanks,
Dennis
 

Smoggie

Well-Known Member
For the 700 I use either the Platinum 130A HV V4 or the 160A version. For the 450 the 60A V4

It's only the latest V4 that has active freewheeling.
 

Dennis H

Member
I finally found the conversation with the person who stated I would gain more flight time with a 10s set up. I will post some of the comments below, including replies from several people. Many have their own version or experiences concerning head speed and flight time. Each paragraph is a reply, this is the only way I could separate everyone's comment. It should make sense, but it's long. There are several differences in this conversation. Richard is set and confident running two 5s packs is the way to go. I highlighted the post where Richard started kicking in.
I have posted this as we touched on a likewise conversation within the last two weeks.

The subject is: What setup will give you the longest flight time on scale type helicopters. They are several good points made along with several suggestions.

See what you think! I am as well as several others are interested in hearing your reply and suggestions.

Thanks, Dennis


Well, if you want to run lower RPM then 1900 you should change the tail gear ratio to nitro's. From 4.37 (Tail Drive Gear: 22T) to 4.95 (Tail Drive Gear: 21T). This helps with any tail authority on lower rpms. How low are you trying to go and why? FYI your head is DFC.

I do not fly hard 3D, just mostly fly around casually with a few flips here and there. I just want to get as long flight time as possible. Like maybe 7 or 8 minutes maybe.

I used to run a single 6s 5000 pack on mine at around 1100 rpm with no issues. Actually went down to around 800 once and still no wobbles.

I am just a sport flyer anyways. I am just trying to get as much flight time as I can out of a 12s pack. I really don't want to go that low, maybe 1900 or so. I don't know much about flybarless or electric helis.

Same here, looking for longest scale/sport flight time. How about going down to 8s instead of 12s for 1600 rpm. Not seen much info about this setup for 700E ? Maybe 6s is more efficient (less weight) ? Thinking about trying it on a stock 510kv 112/12 setup with 710mm asymmetrical blades. I know that its not recommended to go under 90% on CC Ice Esc so pretty much impossible to do low head rpm at 12s.

Yes you could use 8s using 2 4s 5000-8000 packs. That would be a great setup for low headspeed and long flight times. With 6s you kind of NEED to only use a single pack because the HS is so low. With 8s you can have 1300+ head speed in a stock Trex 700e so you can carry more capacity.

This used to be the case when the first 800's started appearing, people would say they NEED 14s! Rubbish! I flew my Trex 800 Pro (RIP) on 10s at 1800 rpm (plenty on an 800!) using 2x 5s 8000mah packs and could get 6.5 minutes hard 3D! That's the same as I get on my 700 nitro! I could have still 3D'd it on 8s at 1500 rpm and if I could find some 4s 10000mah packs I would have done and probably got 10 minutes 3D! Actually with the drone boom there are lots of big capacity packs to be had these days.

It seem to me several are starting to run 10c packs, 2 5s packs.
6s are 22.2 volts. If you go to 5s, the voltage is reduced 3.7v, correct.
Let me know what I am missing. 5c should be 18.5 volts, correct, so hook up 2 in series, you voltage should be 37.0 volts. 37 volts is OK to run in my 800?
Your 800 will fly on anything from 6s to 12s. 10s is good because there is still plenty of head speed for aggressive 3d but longer flight times.

How do you figure going less cells is going to give longer flight times? More mah is what gives longer flight times unless I have been missing something all this time. Less cells will make it lighter, but will also give less power as well. So you tend to go with a bigger mah battery to make up the difference because you are having to use more power. As an example, when I had my Trex 600, it was using a 5000 mah 6s. The same trex 600 on 12s is a 3300 mah battery. The flight times were similar. The same example can be used on the 450 using a 6s or 3s. The 3S has more capacity, but less power and the flight times are about the same using the same head speed.

By increasing the capacity. A 6s 5000 weighs the same as 5s 6000 for example. The lower voltage naturally lowers the HS so the heli runs more efficiently plus you have more capacity in the packs so you get much longer flights. In your 600 example and if the HS's were the same the 12s 3300 should give much longer flights than the 6s 5000 because the Wh is greater in the 12s 3300. However if you ran the 6s on 6600mah at lower HS (similar idea to my 800 on 10s) you would get much longer flights on the 6s than the 12s.

Doesn't make sense, because you are running the same gearing, just less power. Since you have less power, it takes more to do the same work. On Nick Maxwell's tri-bladed raptor, he basically ran the same battery set up, but reduced his gearing and in turn reduced his head speed. That gave him more flight time. Instead of going less cells and more mah which gives you less head speed, why not just gear it down?

Not possible on a Trex 700 unless you buy a lower KV motor and even then you are still using the same capacity packs. By dropping the voltage you can carry more capacity for the same weight AND you are running slower HS's so you get MUCH longer flights and everything runs cooler.

Not less power, less voltage. Your second sentence would be true if we were increasing the gearing to get the same HS, but the gearing remains the same.

Basically, the low kv motor on 6s has very low amp draw, and removing a 5000mah pack is a significant weight savings. I haven't done the math but I saw a guy fly a 700 on a single 6s pack with a 70amp esc and the esc didn't even get warm, so the amp draw must be low.

Yes you could actually use a 40A ESC when running a 12s 700 setup on a single 6s pack!

Why not just adjust your headspeed to a lower setting vs. changing the batteries?
Less headspeed, less amp's drawn.

ESC's are most efficient at or as close to 100% as possible. Also if using governor mode it is still capable of producing huge current burst during hard manoeuvres due to the huge amount of overhead head speed available. You will burn your ESC up very quickly doing this!
Also as I mentioned before lowering the pack voltage means you can carry more capacity for the same weight or the same capacity with less weight.

If you are after bigger packs because you want more flight time, consider using 10s instead of 12s and 6-8000mah packs, this will give you MUCH more flight time at only a slight reduction in head speed (1900 instead of 2100 for example).

The motors Kv number is the motors rpm per volt so you can easily work out the motors max rpm by multiplying the Kv by the pack voltage say 12s 44.4v.
Then you just need to know your main and pinion tooth count and divide the main gear teeth by the pinion teeth. I think your 700 is 112T main and 12T pinion so you have 9.333, this is your gear ratio.Now all you do is divide the max motor rpm by the gear ratio e.g.:530kv x 44.4v = 23532 max motor rpm112 / 12 = 9.33323532 / 9.333 = 2521 max head speed.Obviously you would only hit this head speed with a fresh battery at 100% throttle which is why you would govern the head speed back to around 2000-2100 or use a lower throttle curve.

You will not damage anything using lower voltage packs. The only way you would damage the electronics is by using HIGHER voltage packs like if you tried to use 14s in a 12s heli for example.
You would not get the 6s 8000 packs in an 800 let alone a 600!You will not be running lighter packs because you will use bigger capacity packs. You will run 2 5s packs instead of 2 6s packs but each cell will be bigger in capacity. So for example a 6s 5000mah pack will weigh roughly the same as a 5s 6000mah pack. I use 5s 8000 in my 800 because that heli was meant for 6s 6000mah packs and they weigh roughly the same. So basically you are lowering the voltage but increasing the capacity to keep the pack weight roughly the same.

If you are using the Castle creations ESC's you just need to tell it you are running on 8 or 10s instead of 12 and reduce the head speeds to somewhere where it will govern properly. If you are not using the governor and just using throttle curves in your TX you will want to increase them by 10-20% or simple run a straight 100% throttle in idle up.
 
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