FBL Gyro Spirit Pro with Three Bladed Goblin

Smoggie

Well-Known Member
Good point on the bearings Phil. Yes, if someone is putting so much on that it's running out and going where it's not intended then that can be a big problem. My pulleys stuck to the tail shaft is an example of this but in my defence it is quite hard to get enough on without risking a little wicking into the gap between pulley and shaft. Better a pulley that's hard to remove than a shaft that comes loose in flight.

Another one to watch.. if you are using stainless screws into alloy parts Loctite cures very slowly and probably never cures fully. You can get special activator to apply to the stainless screws but I've never seen it used in the world of RC helis.
 

Heliman450

Well-Known Member
Cheers Steve, that's a good tip. Any idea what the stuff's called?

We're getting a bit off track here but it's always good to go with the flow in my view. My feeling was that the Goblin alloy parts (pulley wheels etc.) were a bit flimsy but I'm sure they're up to the job. I really liked the base plate arrangement where I was able to assemble everything and then open the side frames to pop it into its location. I always find the job of fitting the main gear holding bolt to my T-Rexes a real pain even though my method has improved with time.

Weather still looking grim for today.
 

Smoggie

Well-Known Member
I'm sure you will find in practice all the parts are more than 'man-enough'. My 420 is of course a clone but in most respects it's a straight copy of the goblin and has proved very robust in all respects.

The activator for use on 'passive' materials (aluminium and stainless etc) is Loctite 7471 or 7649. You coat the screw with the activator and allow to dry out, then you apply your Loctite thread locker as per normal. It can also be used to speed up the cure even with normal steel screws. It can be applied many days in advance, so you could dunk all your screws in the activator and allow them to dry out before you start the build.
 
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