Marius' learning to fly - "video diary"

heli-maniac

New Member
ya i have some green true bloods but have not put them in just yet .
the one that come stock are just like hard plastic like the ones in the head you have now
be very careful putting the ball links on and order extras they are a tad longer than any other ball link
the ones like you have now will not work if you have to replace one
 

stokke

Well-Known Member
ya i have some green true bloods but have not put them in just yet .
the one that come stock are just like hard plastic like the ones in the head you have now
be very careful putting the ball links on and order extras they are a tad longer than any other ball link
the ones like you have now will not work if you have to replace one

OK. Good to know. Thanks, Jesse!
 

Tony

Staff member
Yes, the head has to be setup perfect. The gyro with v2.1 installed expects you to have 8º of elevator and aileron pitch that way it knows exactly how many degrees it's moving the blades when it corrects. If you have more pitch than that, then it will do what you had going on.

I don't know if the DFC head is any easier to setup. There are still two linkages going to the grips and the 3 swash links, but it does remove the swash driver and turns the linkages into drivers. Everything is the same, and I will bet the DFC head actually weighs more than the standard FBL head. Either way, they look better and as we all know, that is what matters lmao.

As for idle up, I understand what you are saying about cutting the throttle. First and foremost, STOP DOING THAT! Chopping the throttle on a plane is fine, you do it on a heli and it will fall out of the sky. Get your self used to flipping that hold switch with your right finger. No matter what, hit hold if you are in trouble and try to use the auto rotation to bring it down safely.

Start out like this. Lee had this in another thread and even though I don't use it and can't stand it, it may work for you to bring you into the IU world. Set your throttle to 0 40 80 80 80. This will keep the throttle at 80% when you are in a hover or flying. However if you do something like that flip that you did, it will start to cut the throttle. But this will get you used to the higher head speeds.

After a few flights (like 3, no more), set IU1 to 80 80 70 80 80 and IU2 (I think you have a DX8...) to 100 100 95 100 100. If you have teh DX7 (Im tired and just got to work, can't remember) then set it to the IU1 setting stated and move up to the IU2 setting after about 5 flights or so.

Once you get to that point, you will be doing so much better with a stable head speed. If you watch the flight video I did, when I was in normal mode and did a pitch pump, the tail blew out 90º on me. When I was in IU1 or 2, and I did a 100% pitch pump, the tail just shrugged it off like it was nothing.

Trust us, you will get much better if you do this. It's still just like normal flying so don't let it intimidate you. You are in control of this heli, it's not the other way around. If you feel you absolutely have to, then set your pitch settings in IU1 to the same as normal mode with the throttle settings as I posted above (80 80 70 80 80). This will only give you 2º of negative pitch approximately at full negative.

Let us know how we can help further bro. you are doing great :thumbsup:
 

stokke

Well-Known Member
Thanks, Tony.

I have been logging some hours in the sim now, only flying in IU. The DX7S which I have only has IU1 btw.
It's going great, and I feel very prepared for flying in IU-mode now.

My current THR curve in NORMAL: 0-30-50-75-100
My current THR curve in IU1: 100-95-90-95-100

My current PIT curve in NORMAL: 35-38-50-75-100
My current PIT curve in IU1: 0-25-50-75-100

I switched it (my 450 that is) up in IU yesterday, and that went just fine.
Now I'm just looking forward to get the new parts, so I can set up the head and pitch thoroughly - see how that works out :D

---

I got another set of stick-ends today, this time they fit perfectly!

Original left, new "thumb-stick" right:

P1000717.JPG


P1000718.JPG


P1000719.JPG



After an hour of flyin sim, I decided to switch back to original on my right stick. As I felt my thumb was moving around on the stick surface while flying. But the left stick was left on; that thumb loves the new stick-end. So now I have a fatty on the left, and a slim on the right. LOL
 

Tony

Staff member
Normal mode pitch settings should be around 45 47.5 50 75 100. You have way too much negative pitch the way it sits now. Other than that, get that heli out there and get to flying, everything else looks great.
 

stokke

Well-Known Member
I spent all yesterday evening assembling my new DFC head.

P1000720.JPG


I did also order a swash level tool. But the store managed to send the wrong one; I got a level for bigger birds :(
P1000721.JPG


Old head.
P1000722.JPG


These are the trinkets that was included. The thrust bearings and brass washers had to be "transplanted".
P1000724.JPG


Old PRO shaft, and new DFC shaft (shortest).
P1000725.JPG


After assembling the bearings and what not, I tightened it REAL good, exactly like I have been doing on the PRO head. But on this head, the blade grips seemed more tight; not turning as freely and nice as the PRO. I swapped around bearings, disassembled and assembled, everything seemed fine - but after assembly, the grips still moved more slowly than the PRO grips. I tried the DFC arms on the PRO head, moved smooth as ice! It seems the DFC dampeners are so stiff; the pressure on the bearings is much greater than on the PRO - resulting in "squeezed" bearings and poorer movement. I don't know, what you guys think?

P1000726.JPG


Links attached.
P1000727.JPG


Head mounted.
P1000730.JPG


Finished!
P1000731.JPG


P1000732.JPG


P1000733.JPG


I honestly do not really see much difference, LOL :D But it's on there, and it's cool to have it! After the head was in place, I put down some serious time setting up the head. A new swash leveler is on it's way, but for the time being I had to use the zip-tie trick when leveling the swash. I probably used like an hour on just getting the head as level as I could possibly get it :D

Today I took it down to the soccer field on a test run; AND OH MY GOD IT'S CRAZY! The bird is SUPER responsive, actually I feel it's insane!

BUT, I'm not sure if this is due to:

The new 3GX version 2.1 (with default set-up)?
The new DFC head?
The increased pitch settings?
A combination of all these?

My head as per now:

LOW: -10.5°
MID: 0°
HIGH: +10.5°
AIL: 8°
ELE: 8°

I feel I'm right back where I started; super nervous when flying. The bird is a bit too crazy now. I think I'll have to figure out all the 3GX's settings, and tune it down a little :) Today I also found that there is a DFC swash! Guess I'll have to order that as well. LOL
 
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stokke

Well-Known Member
BTW:

When using rudder (yaw), the bird tilts a bit. So if I do for example a full 720° rudder pirouette, the bird ends up tilted in both AIL and ELE. Hmmm?

Also, forgot to mention; the nodding is completely gone, it's super stable again.
 

stokke

Well-Known Member
OK. I have now done my homework regarding the 3GX advanced set-up.

Here are my new settings:

setup01.jpg


setup02.jpg


I've decided to take it down with small steps, and fine tune in between flights.
Test flight again tomorrow i guess :D
 

Lee

Well-Known Member
That swash leveller normally come with a shim to fit inside for the 450 and 500 without the shim, that how mine works. Guess they forgot to add the shim in your packet. DFC head looks cool
 

stokke

Well-Known Member
i thought you said you got some better dampeners and yes the stock are way to hard
the DFC swash is killer looking

Yes, Jesse. I did order some orange KB4106 dampeners, but the store didn't have them in stock, so they shipped all my other stuff first. Guess I'll use the new dampeners when they arrive. And YES, the stock dampeners could just as well be made out of metal they're so hard :D

That swash leveller normally come with a shim to fit inside for the 450 and 500 without the shim, that how mine works. Guess they forgot to add the shim in your packet. DFC head looks cool

I'm pretty sure the leveler I got is for big size heli (like 700), because it wouldn't even fit under my swash :D
 

murankar

Staff member
Actually it appeared you had it upside down in your photo. Flip it and line the feet with the linkage balls on the swash.

The leveler will sit on top of the swash.
 

stokke

Well-Known Member
Actually it appeared you had it upside down in your photo. Flip it and line the feet with the linkage balls on the swash.

The leveler will sit on top of the swash.

LOL, what?! :D I just checked some pics on Google, and yes, I obviously do not know how to use this tool! :D
Anyways, I still need it to be the correct inner diameter. Hope to get the 5mm one today!

Thanks, Matthias! Proves to show I'm still a newbie :D
 

stokke

Well-Known Member
Got my swash leveler today. One that actually fit this time :D
P1000736.JPG


Today, I was determined that I will get the head right, once and for all!!
I took out the servos, and got them as 90 i could.
P1000738.JPG


Put on my new leveler.
P1000737.JPG


This is as level as I can possibly get it.
The servos are 90.
Adjusted the PIT link two turns, the AIL one turn, and the ELE three turns.
It doesn't get more level then this :D (At least I think not, LOL).

P1000740.JPG


After lovering the entire swash one turn, then raising the tracking links two turns, I finally got 0° on mid stick again.
I'm not able to get a balanced pitch between negative and positive though... Ended up with 10,1° positive, 10,9 ° on negative.

Anyways, took it out another two test flights.
And she's flying beautifully again :D
I also got rid of the rudder/elevator problem, I think it was caused by a un-leveled swash.

http://youtu.be/ZthgSLf7aHI

http://youtu.be/8v4xZXEqaN0
 

Tony

Staff member
Amazing bro, simply amazing. I don't know if you noticed or not, but when you were in IU, the heli looked much more stable than in normal mode.

As for the pitch settings, your swash is too low. You said you shortened the links 2 turns. Try to lengthen them one turn and see if you can get any closer. If not, it's not a big deal. Keep it up, you are doing great. :thumbsup:
 

Adam

Active Member
You make this look easy great job man keep them coming. Work on some nose in hovering and soon before you know it inverted.
 

Tony

Staff member
You want to know the sad thing, I can actually hover nose in inverted easier than I can right side up lol.
 
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