380/420 Goosky RS4 Collective

Park Flyer

New Member
Finished building the Goosky RS4. Using a new Spektrum NX8, binding good. Collective barley moving on full stick positive or negative. Normal, Stunt 1 & 2 same. Cyclic and Rudder are okay. Have tried many things, no luck! Cannot finish calibration until the Collective starts moving.
 

RandyDSok

Well-Known Member
This video should help walk you through the whole setup using just a radio ... there may be a bluetooth config out there but I didn't look for one since you didn't mention trying to use that for setup.

 

Park Flyer

New Member
Thank You, I have watched this video. Jeff West from Heli-Direct I think.
However my swash still does not work.
Initializing looks good. All servos move up and down quickly and level.
After that the Collective sits there, moves about 1/8"....
Cyclic and rudder seem to be okay. Have the correct swash type (Normal), calibrated sticks and still no go!
 

Park Flyer

New Member
Thank You, I have watched this video. Jeff West from Heli-Direct I think.
However my swash still does not work.
Initializing looks good. All servos move up and down quickly and level.
After that the Collective sits there, moves about 1/8"....
Cyclic and rudder seem to be okay. Have the correct swash type (Normal), calibrated sticks and still no go!
Hello, I do have the Bluetooth module mounted and it connects to the heli. But not sure what to do from there. I am a beginnner at this!
 

RandyDSok

Well-Known Member
I'm not going to look for a bluetooth setup option... you can setup everything with your radio just as was shown in the video. Besides, the BT setup only is for the setup of the FBL controller and not the transmitter... I suspect if you missed something it was with the transmitter setup portion.

I'd point you to go through everything again no matter how much you may feel you did it all... In particular, focus on the normal, idleup1 and idleup2 settings... then the pitch curve settings for each of those. Also remember to move the switch you assigned for each of those modes. I believe you can also look at the servo movement screen and what it shows should be mirrored by the actual servos. If the screen shows all 3 servos moving in full... the model's servos should also move fully. If the servos get in a bind, they will sound like they are binding. I won't try to say how the servo in a bind sounds... but it will be obvious as you move through the travel range and it gets to a point that it sounds like it is struggling.

You mentioned being a beginner. A helicopter is NOT a beginners aircraft. It is much like trying to balance a spinning metal bearing ( marble ) on a glass table top. Even advanced heli flyers will crash often which gets expensive very quickly. I strongly recommend investing in a flight simulator like RealFlight or something of equal quality. Practice for long enough that on the flight sim you can hover in place, with the nose pointed in every direction. First start with the nose away from you, then pointing towards you... then left and right. After that start doing figure 8's keeping the nose pointed in the same direction you are moving. Then move to the real heli and repeat the process because even the best flight sim is only sort of like the real thing. So start with the hovers... nose away at first and then the rest of it. Do not rush your training. Do not get in a hurry to get to the next step in the training.


Any other possible help on this subject... will have to come from the other users on this forum. They will likely not have your same radio or heli... but they all work similarly so should be able to point you in some direction to check if the above doesn't help. I own a heli but I don't fly it... I fly airplanes.
 

Park Flyer

New Member
I'm not going to look for a bluetooth setup option... you can setup everything with your radio just as was shown in the video. Besides, the BT setup only is for the setup of the FBL controller and not the transmitter... I suspect if you missed something it was with the transmitter setup portion.

I'd point you to go through everything again no matter how much you may feel you did it all... In particular, focus on the normal, idleup1 and idleup2 settings... then the pitch curve settings for each of those. Also remember to move the switch you assigned for each of those modes. I believe you can also look at the servo movement screen and what it shows should be mirrored by the actual servos. If the screen shows all 3 servos moving in full... the model's servos should also move fully. If the servos get in a bind, they will sound like they are binding. I won't try to say how the servo in a bind sounds... but it will be obvious as you move through the travel range and it gets to a point that it sounds like it is struggling.

You mentioned being a beginner. A helicopter is NOT a beginners aircraft. It is much like trying to balance a spinning metal bearing ( marble ) on a glass table top. Even advanced heli flyers will crash often which gets expensive very quickly. I strongly recommend investing in a flight simulator like RealFlight or something of equal quality. Practice for long enough that on the flight sim you can hover in place, with the nose pointed in every direction. First start with the nose away from you, then pointing towards you... then left and right. After that start doing figure 8's keeping the nose pointed in the same direction you are moving. Then move to the real heli and repeat the process because even the best flight sim is only sort of like the real thing. So start with the hovers... nose away at first and then the rest of it. Do not rush your training. Do not get in a hurry to get to the next step in the training.


Any other possible help on this subject... will have to come from the other users on this forum. They will likely not have your same radio or heli... but they all work similarly so should be able to point you in some direction to check if the above doesn't help. I own a heli but I don't fly it... I fly airplanes.
Thank You Randy for the reply and messages.
Yes I have the RealFlight simulator. I have spent some time on that. Struggled at first but doing much better now. Hovering nose in and away and some other maneuvers. Mostly basic stuff though. I did manage some loops and barrel rolls and a few crashes, but eventually I was able to recover in many situations. Regarding my model I did get the swash moving. I watched a video where Throttle Cut was mentioned and determined the Throttle Cut was set to Inhibit on my radio. I assigned it to Switch H and the swash moved normally. I used the phone APP and it worked better. So I Ieveled the servos arms and the swash plate and set main blade pitch. Tail looks correct also. I plan on watching the videos again and check everything again. My background is I flew AMA gas Free Flight since 1975. Never had anything with a radio though. Take Care Tom S.
 
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