600 Welcome the newcomer! Yes! I did it! :) kinetic 50 :)

[coolgabsi]

Hey guys..


So as you might have seen in my classified post, I traded my 450 in for a nitro kinetic 50 with a os 50 hyper engine and muffler.. I am pretty happy about it.

Why kinetic ?

Well because they are older model, the frames are not worth much, I just basically paid (traded) cause it was coming with a almost new os 50 hyper engine.

Parts are CHEAP for this one and available online and lhs ( for century models)

All this heli needs is electronics... Starter, fuel pump and fuel..

So I started off by researching a lot on the servos and gyro and all, and even If I know this is mccpm.. I decided to go with good electronics once and for all. There isn't gonna be a forever going hunt for electronics now on. I am gonna go good ones that my pocket can afford and that perform good.

So I researched a lot .. And found exactly the servos I could afford and the gyro and the bec (actually 2in1) and all..

Found this guy selling his trex 600n , asked him if he would part the electronics cause they were exactly what I was looking for!

I was very happy. As soon as I was sure the trade went through, I went ahead a bit the bullet and paid for all electronics. But it was an AWESOME DEAL.

I paid 230 for all this

3x futaba s3152 Servo
One throttle servo don't remember which one
Futaba Gy401
S9254 tail servo futaba
Align 2 in 1
2s 1900 mah lipo
Fuel pump.

So once I am done with this airframe, I can yank everything out, and put it in a better one like a trex 600 or thunder tiger raptor. Something like that. So that electronics and engine are all a one time investement.

Anywaz... I love it! Everything will be here this coming week. All I will need Is a starter, fuel and a full setup.

let me know if y'all have any comments or suggestions!

Btw kinetic 50 is a gr8 starter nitro heli as per it's reviews. Very stable and meek. Does mild 3d.. Needs tuning and upgrading for hard 3d but I am not there yet... Lol

 

[Lee]

Gettng into the nitro ? Cool. I would if i could, but for me its just too messy to travel with. Maybe when or if i settle down.

 

[coolgabsi]

UPS came knocking on the door.,... I was excited! that's what I received...



Now this put things in perspective for me... I am intimidated.. And happy and intimidated.. It's basically dismantled, but the guy was good enough to include the manual with it. And send me two sets of the blades. Engine really looks like its been serviced recently.. Very smooth( IMO) I will start putting things together soon...

I will looking for some SERIOUS help in this one guys...

Hope y'all can help me.. lol

 

[Tony]

Depending on your definition of "smooth", that could be a bad thing. You should feel quite a bit of compression during every revolution of the crankshaft. It should "pop" or "snap" the crank around. If it bleeds off really fast, or is not there at all, then the piston and sleeve is toast and need to be replaced.

 

[coolgabsi]

The Good thing is that the engine is already out... There is compression and sealing, how I say is that there is the "pop" or push every time.. I tried blocking all it's orifices, and it was hard to move it with hand. but as you all have said that better the open the head once to check how things look, I am gonna do that tonight..

 

[Tony]

Make sure you put the sleeve back in the block exactly the same as it came out. If the ports don't line up, it won't run. There should be a small pin in the block with a slot in the sleeve to line everything up. I may try to get an engine from someone and a fuel tank and everything to do a video on this. But it will be a while.

 

[coolgabsi]

Yeah that'll be great. Till then I referred to xjet's videos. It said the same. I will see how deep I can (or wanna) go in it...

 

[Tony]

There are only 4 moving parts inside a motor. The crank, rod, wrist pin, and piston. Along with those, you have the case, two bearings, lock collar, flywheel, clutch, clutch pins, clutch bell, head and glow plug. On the carb, you have two or three needles (if you have 3, leave the midrange alone), body, and slide (or rotary) and the seals. So taking them apart is not that big of a deal, just don't strip out the head or backplate screws.

 

[coolgabsi]

Ok ... I tried opening the engine. I am using good quality tools this time (no stripping) well, I got the carb out, that was easy.. And the backplate with the liners / gaskets intact. I did not have to fight any gunk in the engine, it was CLEAN!

Now the cooling head was a different story . For the life of me!!, I couldnt get 4 of the 6 screws to turn. I tried tried tried... Nope... They didn't move. I was using a screwdriver (hex 3mm) , with a towel...but nothing.. So not wanting to damage any screws, I basically let it be.. I inspected as far as I could. And put it back together... Any suggestions here? Will Allen wrench make a difference? Will heating it in the oven at 300 make a difference ?

Let me know guys.. Open to ideas..

 

[breeze400]

If they are Allen heads use L wrenches. You can try heating it but the block is what you want to heat not the head. I couldn't tell you a good way to do it. If you have one of those small butane torches I would try that.

 

[coolgabsi]

I have seen people take the backplate and carb out. Then all what's left is metal. No parts that might get damaged. A torch will be good to have. I'll add it in my wish list. But I'll try oven next time. or the L wrench as you said. Might help get it to open.

 

[Tony]

An Allen wrench is a hex wrench. they are one in the same. Heating it in the oven will work, the aluminum block is softer than the steel bolts and will expand more. Make sure your driver is fitting in the screws snug. If it's not, then you will strip it.

 

[coolgabsi]

Yes it definately is.. I will try the oven.

 

[Tony]

A regular lighter will work as well. But will leave soot on the case that you will have to wash off.

 

[coolgabsi]

check this out... The engine is flawless from the inside. I can see that the engine has run some flights. I see some marks on the piston of ignition, but apart from that, I didnt see a speck of soot anywhere around inside this engine. The bearings are smooth, no grit! I am excited to put it in the air. Now that I have opened it, I have confidence that this thing will fly, and I wont be so intimidated of opening it and servicing it if needed.


I am also glad the heli came in so many many peices, so I can basically just put it together from scratch, and even if it takes me days.. I will know what sits where and how.

Let me know what you guys think. This video is from my phone... Shaky... and I didnot edit a thing.. its as is.. I dont wanna waste time on editing, I got a 50 size to put together! hahah.

 

[Tony]

Motor looks good. Because it looks like it has either never been broken in correctly, or that it was heavily cleaned, I would break it in again. Breaking in the motor will provide even more compression if done correctly.

If you ever take it apart again, you only want to clean the fuel or oil. Don't scrub the soot off unless it's chipping. Can't wait to see it running and you crapping your pants hehe

 

[coolgabsi]

Ugh... Stupid clutch , clutch bell, and fan and bearing is missing. I am stuck until that arrives in lhs. Ghosh!

Texted that dude, hope he gets back with something.

Was hoping to get this heli up and running by tomorrow, cause everything else is almost good to go...

Anywhew, I'll keep y'all updated.