600 Trex Fbl Dfc Swahplate

[Alex Evans]

why does this swashplate have 2 threaded holes to connect the balls that connect the links to the blades.?
Hope someone can explain to me,
1) which one should I use
2) why

Thanks

 

[Admiral]

Sounds like your have a CCPM Swash if it is you use any two opposing holes, it makes it easier if you include a photo of the item.


600 DFC Swash 600 Pro Swash

Either one will work , the DFC swash can be difficult to get the links on and off I modified a set of ball link pliers which makes it easier.

 

[Alex Evans]

OK, IT is a 600 CCPM


The question remains, Is there any best option, the inner or outer slots?

I think, if I use the inner, it may make it even more difficult to get the links on / off

How did you modify the tool for it?

Cheers

 

[Admiral]

OK looks like a universal type, to be FBL, I would remove all four and put two in the outer holes of the of the ones with two holes.

I had to trim the end of the fingers off so they would get a good purchase on the links and not hit the case of the swash.

 

[Alex Evans]

When the item arrives in the box, all the ball links are in a plastic back, not installed.
I of course installed only the relevant 2.

Yes, the plyer is almost not usable, I will trim it too, thanks for the tip

Cheers

 

[Alex Evans]

OK looks like a universal type, to be FBL, I would remove all four and put two in the outer holes of the of the ones with two holes.

I had to trim the end of the fingers off so they would get a good purchase on the links and not hit the case of the swash.

Just noticed, in the image of this new swashplate, the 2 relevant balls are inserted in the inner slots, not the outer, any idea why?

Cheers

 

[Admiral]

Just back from flying, thinking about it that is an FBL swash the other two balls are for the Radius arm.
On the swash use the hole that will give you the closest to vertical on the linkage to the head.

 

[Alex Evans]

Yes, that was choice and it is with the outer holes.
But, my problem remains, can't get to 6 degrees, I get as far as around 8 degrees.
I am going to follow Smoggie's suggestion to shorten the servo arms.

The problem is that I have the original Trex ESP wheels, not arms. Those wheels have only holes around the circle, to enable choices to get as close to 90 degrees as possible.

To shorten the distance to the servo shift, i have to remove the wheels, transfer the ball links to actual servo arms, and position those closer...

Or maybe, you have another idea. In my mind, my pushrods from the servo links to the swahplate, are too long, which makes the starting point, higher than needed and that's why I get at best to 8, not to 6 degrees.

Your thoughts

Cheers

 

[Tony]

The two holes side by side are for adjustments. For example, on the BeastX, you need to get a blue light at 6º. You can use those holes to achieve that mark. Farther out, the more travel, less control. Further in, less travel, more control over the swash movement / blade movement. It is just another adjustment point on the helicopter to help fine tune the way it handles. I would start with the inner holes.

 

[Admiral]

By the look of this DFC page the full kit PN H60239A includes main shaft PN H60247 which is 163.3 mm long.
My LHS has them in stock now 600DFC Main Shaft(ESP) H60247 - ALIGN

Failing this your going to have to modify a longer shaft to fit.

No guarantees this will fix your issue as it is a mix and match of an old airframe with upgraded parts, but it looks promising.

600DFC Main Rotor Head Upgrade H60239A - Align (600 DFC upgrade out of stock)

 

[Alex Evans]

This full DFC is sold out - in small print
The sft that came with the DFC head from Gratt is 162mm long
The Align DFC shaft part number H6024TT is 172mm long.

I have no means of cutting the longer one and no way to make the hole in the exact correct distance.

In your previous post, you said I should have the blade rods to the swashplate as vertical as possible, that is by using the outer hole in the plate arms.

So, what do you think

Cheers

 

[Admiral]

I sent the listing for the full Head so that you could look at the items supplied to show that the shaft supplied is 163.3 I knew it was sold out.

When searched I found at lease 6 different heads the 600 including short DFC, Long DFC and several Nitro ones they varied in length from just over 200mm to 163

if you need shorter one - H6NH001XX

●Suitable to use with T-REX 600DFC Main Rotor Head Upgrade Set (H60239A) Longer one.

Haven't got a clue which one you need for your version of 600 suggest you get both. Your Call.

 

[Alex Evans]

Hello again
I looked at the Align DFC manual, it has in it the main shaft as 163.3 mm, but if you look at the servo locations on this model, this will be irrelevant to my case, when converting from ESP model, the servos are in different location...

Cheers

 

[Admiral]

Only change to the CF Frame were, Frame thickness for CF was increased over the very early kits. The early kits had 2 battery strap slots and the frames now only have one.
Attach the drawing of the ESP fame & Pro DFC frames, they are different orientation but servos look the same positioning.

 

[Alex Evans]

My machine is OLD, I got it 2nd hand some 8 years ago, obviously - it was NOT an ESP model
Have a look at the picture, before my switch to DFC.

No wonder, that I can't get this thing setup... I replaced the shaft to the shorter one, I need now shorter push rods (in the process I managed to break one of the ball links and have no replacement...) But, also will have a serious challenge to adjust the Elevator arm to mid stick, this - I can't have a shorter one....

So?

 

[Alex Evans]

The two holes side by side are for adjustments. For example, on the BeastX, you need to get a blue light at 6º. You can use those holes to achieve that mark. Farther out, the more travel, less control. Further in, less travel, more control over the swash movement / blade movement. It is just another adjustment point on the helicopter to help fine tune the way it handles. I would start with the inner holes.

Hi Tony,

I am new to all this. Using a DX9 Black with a Spirit Pro controller.
I get to zero degrees but don't manage to get to 6 degrees... At the moment, I am using the outer hole - should I try the inner?

Cheers
Alex

 

[RandyDSok]

But, my problem remains, can't get to 6 degrees, I get as far as around 8 degrees.

I get to zero degrees but don't manage to get to 6 degrees...

In one post you get to 8° ... now you say you can get to zero but not 6°

You can use those holes to achieve that mark. Farther out, the more travel, less control. Further in, less travel, more control over the swash movement

Doesn't it then make sense if you previously couldn't get down to 6° that less travel than 8° would be what you were looking for...


Personally... I'm clueless on all of this and your statements seem contradictory with one stating you can get to zero and in another eight degrees... In fact, don't try to explain it... we can't have one clueless person trying to explain something to another clueless person... the result would likely open a black hole in space time with all that cluelessness reaching to the point of infinity ...

 

[Alex Evans]

Hi rdsok
It seems you are what you said.
Have you ever set a Spirit pro controller? Obviously not.
The setup is done on a computer, with a software wizard.
It goes through 9 steps.
In step 7, you set pitch on both blads to zero pitch while the stick is in the middle.
Once done, you go next to step 8, that's where you have to get to 6 degrees.
But, the scale starts at a high pitch and you have to drive the software down to six, in my case it stops at 8.

Now, ask yourself, why did I bother to tell you all this?
Well, maybe, next time, before trying to make fun of someone, stop and think... That is, if you are equipped to do so.

Have a nice day

 

[RandyDSok]

Well, maybe, next time, before trying to make fun of someone, stop and think... That is, if you are equipped to do so.

I was not trying to make fun of you... I was trying to joke around a little bit and make light of the situation to some extent... something that most people that are used to using forums and the internet get when they see the emoticons on the end of that statement. Emots are used to help bridge over not getting the "tone" of a conversation as you would in real life.

The first part that I mentioned was sort of serious, where I mention that using the inner ball joint location should decrease the travel as Tony mentioned... the last paragraph was all in fun hence the emots on the end to indicate that.

 

[Alex Evans]

Ok, thanks